Since there were so many comments about the deck core
it is worth a separate post. Tayana changed the deck
design of the V-42 in 1985 and I do not know if they also changed their coring schedule. From what I know of my boat and talking to other owners, for pre-1985 hulls the decks are balsa, and the balsa is divided into small sections that are separated by / encapsulated with resin. As far as I can tell there is no pattern or regularity to the location or amounts of resin poured between the balsa sections, and I cannot tell the size of the sections but there are a LOT of them.
Two years ago I removed the jib
sheet tracks, drilled out each bolt hole, scraped out the wet core
, and filled the holes with epoxy
. The holes need *something* to keep the two skins apart when the jib sheets
pull on the tracks, a compression
fitting would work as well, but an epoxy plug
from getting in the core.
Here is a picture after drilling a jib sheet track bolt hole to 3/4", you can see some of the resin between the balsa sections at about 2 o'clock.
The same hole after removing the wet core, and I put the screw back in place to show how deep the teak deck
screws penetrated the deck into the core.
In August I started removing my teak
decks and now know everywhere the core is damp, wet or dry. Even where the core is sopping wet, the resin encapsulating the balsa sections is intact and securely bonded to the inner and outer fiberglass
skins. Here is one of the holes for my new jib sheet tracks (I am moving them), the holes are 3/8" in diameter. This hole was drilled next to one of the resin dividers, you can see that it is firmly bonded to the deck. (That is a W because the core in that hole was Wet; for all the holes I have scooped out the core over an inch in diameter to fill the holes with epoxy - 48 of 'em.)
This hole was drilled through a resin divider, some of them are substantial - this one looks about 1/4" thick, and also firmly bonded to the deck.
THIS is a nail - remember the headliner
was glued to plywood
that was nailed to the underside of the deck. This nail is inaccessible so I can't remove it ... but the story I wanted to share is about several nails that went COMPLETELY through the deck. Those leaks
were buggers to find because the holes in the deck were just small black dots. (I finally found them all by crawling on the deck and stabbing every single
black dot with a pin - the teak
was bedded with black polysulfide, there were m-a-n-y black dots. Arrrgh!)
The nails were not all bad - many of them allowed water
in the core to drain out.
Troy, if you are lucky you may find easy evidence of leaks
like this one on that boat. This particular leak was from the jib sheet tracks (galley cabinet from other post).
Unfortunately, most of the leaks that drained through from the nails and deck hardware
ran down behind the paneling (also nailed) on the walls of the cabins and could not be seen.
My deck has four large wet areas, about six or eight square feet in total, that the balsa has disintegrated and I would like to recore but I was concerned about getting the top skin off since the two skins are held together with the resin boxes. Since the layup
is so thick there is no hope of bending the skin to reach under with a saw blade to cut through the resin boxes. I researched this for many hours and found nothing - if anybody knows of any information about the possibility of recoring a deck like this Please let me know. My conclusion was that it cannot be done. Where the core is wet I have drilled holes through the underside to drain out the water and help it dry, and in a few years I will inject it with CPES.