I've answered C&C
questions in prior threads from my experience with the boats I've owned, worked on and sailed but would be happy to add a few comments.
the coring on older C&C's was to the waterline, below the waterline was solid, the original layups were of good quality. I owned a 38 racer/cruiser (not the Landfall) for 12 years while also owning other makes during that time. I've seen a couple of blisters
on a couple C&C's but not like it was a common issue.
coring was not an issue, I never had any issues with that aspect of the boat.
cores, like any other manufacturer of fiberglass
boats is a function of the original build quality and the owners maintenance
, or lack thereof. Mine had some minor water
intrusion when I bought it, mostly in small areas around some of the deck mounted hardware
, just like every other used boat
I've had, surprisingly not as bad as average. Mine was easily fixed by reaming out the core at the through bolt areas, pouring in rubbing alcohol to help dry it out, then filling the small void with thickened epoxy
and re-drilling the mounting hole. My boat had received good care by it's previous owner so the water was confined to a small area around those holes.
Don't let the cored hull naysayers put you off. Just about every boat built has cored decks, where most of the problems with cores lye, unless the boat was of poor build quality, decks are where most boats have core issue, no matter what make.
They sail well, perform well and have great feel under sail. The Landfalls were some of the earlier "performance cruisers" during that period and carry a fair amount of sail area for their displacement
compared to other cruising boats of that era, just reef a little earlier and she'll do just fine.
systems of that era were usually not done with tinned wiring
and will usually need some attention if they haven't already, most builders in that period, and many today didn't use tinned wire in their production boats, I found it easier to re-wire the boat rather than waste time trying to repair the original. It took about 2-1/2 weekends to pull new wire, mount a replacement breaker panel and do all the reconnections, that included re-wiring the mast
. Not a huge task but very rewarding since every time you flipped a switch the device worked, nice to know when your far from shore at night.
It basically comes down to the condition of the particular boat your looking at and how well it was cared for by the previous owner, as with any used boat
. Layout and appointments are personal matters, whatever floats your boat.
The rod rigging
is fine but of course it's a matter of personal preference there, make sure to get it inspected. As I've mentioned in previous comments, the rod rig is secured to the mast
by toggles which screw on to the the mast by machined through bolts made of aluminum
, these have caused several rig failures when the halyards were run incorrectly and eventually sawed through the toggle bolts allowing the shrouds to pop off.
I pulled the mast on my 38 the first year I had it and found this to be the case, fortunately I had the ability to make a set on my lathe and replace them, otherwise it's about $70.00 a piece to get someone to make them.
I suggest pulling the mast on any used boat you purchase
and inspecting it, not matter what make, within the first year of ownership
. Inspecting a rig that is standing is only half the job, there are many other possible failure points that cant be properly inspected until the mast is down and pulled apart.
I was very pleased with the performance, comfort, sea keeping ability and overall build quality of mine, I would buy another but my family
has expanded and our cruising goals have also, so the C&C
was put up for sale
and a larger vessel has taken it's place, but I still miss the sweet sailing characteristics of that hull.