Suppose You Had a Total Budget of $60,000...

[Doolittle]

...and you wanted to buy a pocket cruiser under 30 feet for spring/summer/fall coastal cruising, how much would you spend on the boat itself, and how much would you keep for annual maintenance, incidentals, and major repairs?

[David M]

How much could you add to that amount per year to make up for annual costs?

Many people roughly estimate that the per year cost of owning a boat is about 10% of its value. For major repairs or major upgrades add to that estimate.

[Doolittle]

Something in range of 3,000

[S&S]

I wouldn't spend more than 40K for the boat then. Expect your 3k/yr to be spent.

[MarkJ]

I'd offer $60k on an $80k boat and work a bit harder during the week. Go stack shelves at the local supermarket after work!

[Stillraining]

Id offer 40K on a 60k boat...knowing that rairly is a boat turn key and will need immediate funds for repairs or maintenance...and still go stack shelves at the local super market... as 3k will barley or possibly not even pay your annual slip fees .

[syoder]

I'd spend $20K or less on a late 60s or early 70s Alberg design and then have plenty left over to fix her up and maintain her and screw stacking shelves.

[scubasteve]

Originally Posted by syoder

I'd spend $20K or less on a late 60s or early 70s Alberg design and then have plenty left over to fix her up and maintain her and screw stacking shelves.

I have to agree with this approach, spend the extra money saved by getting the boat up to par.

yes, screw stacking shelves, if you're working all the time you will ending up having the nicest boat in the marina that never gets used.

[LuvToSail]

I would spend $25,000-$30,000 on a really nice C&C Mk II (late 70s) and budget $5000 a year for insurance, moorage, maintenance and cool upgrades.
Or possibly a Cal 30, roughly the same cost (maybe less).

For that money you could probably find a boat with new top sides, repowered, great sails, rigging and new cushions/covers.

[RainDog]

I would pay 30k for the boat and put 30k in the bank for the boat fund. With interest, that should cover all your maintenance, insurance, and slip fees for 5 years. It should also leave you enough to do some upgrades over time and cover any major costs such as new standing rigging, new sails, or a repower. 30k should be plenty for a very nice, not too-old, coastal cruiser < 30 feet.

[bangkaboat]

Much like others, I'd spend about 50% on the boat, give or take $5,000. I'd look for an older boat with a thick, solid hull - no sandwich construction of hull - a fully bonded deck-hull joint, a cutaway keel(3/4 keel) with encased lead, preferably one that has had recent engine replacement/rebuild and recent rig refurbishment, preferably, with oversized standing rigging. A healthy sail inventory is important, all equipment on board should be operable. Like Syoder, an Alberg would be high on my list, as would a Spencer.
Mike

I wouldn't be afraid to look at wood or steel boats, as well, but it has been my experience that there are many high quality plastic boats available for relatively low prices.

[Maren]

Here's one more vote for purchasing a good condition boat for about 30k. Upgrades, maintaince, repairs, docking, taxes and so on tend to take a bigger chunk than estimated.

Better to have the extra capital in reserve.

[LuvToSail]

Originally Posted by bangkaboat

Much like others, I'd spend about 50% on the boat, give or take $5,000. I'd look for an older boat with a thick, solid hull - no sandwich construction of hull - a fully bonded deck-hull joint, a cutaway keel(3/4 keel) with encased lead, preferably one that has had recent engine replacement/rebuild and recent rig refurbishment, preferably, with oversized standing rigging. A healthy sail inventory is important, all equipment on board should be operable. Like Syoder, an Alberg would be high on my list, as would a Spencer.
Mike

I wouldn't be afraid to look at wood or steel boats, as well, but it has been my experience that there are many high quality plastic boats available for relatively low prices.

I personally wouldn't go out of my way to select a boat with over sized standing rigging , as a well designed boat should have appropriate sized rigging that is matched to the chainplate strength etc. Over sized rigging would just add to the stresses associated with the additional windage. Yes good condition rigging would be something to shop for. And yes properly adjusted rigging and good seamanship, but I wouldn't rely on over sized rigging to make life any safer.

IMHO, a well maintained boat with solid rigging and deck/hull condition and well constructed boat would be the way go though as suggested.

Regarding wooden boats, absolutely there are well designed and cared for boats in that category, but wooden boats, as far as I know require more maintenance and work (although I have never owned one.) If you are willing/wanting to take on the work required and appreciate the beauty some wooden boats offer then sure go ahead, I certainly appreciate the beauty!

IMHO, steel boats in the 30 foot range will tend to be too heavy for any benefits that a metal hull and deck can be argued to provide. I think as boats get up in length over 40 feet, from a design/construction point of view metal boats merit consideration

[witzgall]

Something you need to answer first - how much do you like working on boats? If alot, you can get a super boat for <20k, and then go from there. The main benefit from this is that you have lots of $$$ left to replace things, upgrade this, add that. In the process, you get to know your boat very well, and all of the stuff is new, vs. old and beaten down.

If you don't like working on boats, go the 40k route, but search really hard for something that is in A1 shape, vs, ok shape with lots of goodies.

Chris

[witzgall]

Why would you need a tank of a boat for coastal cruising?

Chris

Originally Posted by bangkaboat

Much like others, I'd spend about 50% on the boat, give or take $5,000. I'd look for an older boat with a thick, solid hull - no sandwich construction of hull - a fully bonded deck-hull joint, a cutaway keel(3/4 keel) with encased lead, preferably one that has had recent engine replacement/rebuild and recent rig refurbishment, preferably, with oversized standing rigging. A healthy sail inventory is important, all equipment on board should be operable. Like Syoder, an Alberg would be high on my list, as would a Spencer.
Mike

I wouldn't be afraid to look at wood or steel boats, as well, but it has been my experience that there are many high quality plastic boats available for relatively low prices.