Steel boat – heaven or hell?

[Captsteve53]

Originally Posted by hpeer

The negative comments I've heard about zinc coating and zinc primers wells restricted to their use outside under the waterline. I think all agree with their use above the waterline and inside.

In fact our big boat was coated inside and our with flame sprayed aluminum. I see no negative issues.

One issue I over looked with my recent post, I should have said that all our vessels where coated with INORGANIC ZINC not just a zinc rich paint, or flame sprayed Zinc/Aluminium,using In-organic Zinc when over-coated is fine to use for the whole vessel, especially under the water!

1) An inorganic zinc coatings is a type of coating that possess the distinct ability to give corrosion protection to surfaces such as steels. As the name implies, this type of coating has large amounts of zinc metallic dust mixed with a binder.
2) Inorganic zinc-rich paint consists of high-build polysiloxae or a hybrid topcoat and primer made from inorganic zinc. The use of this type of coating and formulations to achieve steel protection has been well known in the industry of protective coating. Almost all of the zinc-based coatings are created with either epoxy resin binders or inorganic silicate

3) There are two major types of zinc-rich paint exist in the market, and each varies according to the type of binder used in the production process. Inorganic zinc-rich paint typically contains a binder like zinc silicate. On the other hand, organic zinc-rich paint makes use of urethane, butyl or epoxy. After accurate application of the zinc-rich paint to the surface, the binder holds onto the particles of zinc that are connected as well as the surface of the steel.

4) Contact between two dissimilar metals will result in a galvanic cell capable of erosion when subjected to an electrolyte-rich environment. Zinc particles act as the anode while the steel becomes the cathode in the galvanic cell. The action of the galvanic cell causes the zinc to corrode while guarding the steel from galvanic attack.

BOTTOM LINE:
Inorganic zinc-rich paints are very unique since they offer the best protection to metal surfaces despite scratches, pinholes, voids and other defects. It has outstanding mechanical properties and is capable of resisting impact, scratching and scuffing,

Cheers Steve

[GTom]

Just to hijack the topic a bit: a (3x?) thicker aluminum is also interesting, however welding is an issue. And of course price...

[hpeer]

Captsteve,

Thanks for that post. Never thought it through dynamically as you did.

Learned something there. Previous post was good also.

FWIW, I blasted and repainted the bottom on our small boat only to have large portions of it blister badly even BEFORE being put in the water. Ameron 235 over Ameron zinc primer. Ameron reps were no help. After much head scratching and effort I've come to the working theory that the hull got contamination from a nearby refinery.

I've used this system in this boat before with no issues. But not such a large expanse and done in a clean environment. I'll know in a few weeks if my last efforts were successful. It's really painful to blast a bottom and repaint only to see it fail so miserably.

[Oceanride007]

My steel boat Sierra, I believe is a coreten yacht, its 29 yo, biggest problem is blocked limber holes, also another big problem is beautiful timber work that I am very reluctant to change to get access. Did it once to remove leaky FW SS tank, took me 2 weeks to build up the courage to grab the circular saw. I can't see all the inside hull but confident because what I can see is good, the 3 problems I have had is FW leak from above, ie the water tank, leaky lazarette hatch and blocked shower drain that must have been a long term leak before I bought it.
My boat does feel extra dry compared to GRP hulls. Another good thing is if you can keep on top of the Corrosion you have a hull that is everybit as good as day1, there is no reason why this boat won't last another 29years. Its often the best looking yacht in the anchorage, despite its white paint.

[zjames]

I am looking at a Steel boat that has a deep keel of 10"11". I am concerned about the draft. I have a great surveyor in Ft Lauderdale that will examine the hull and all systems. Great info here thanks. Interested about what your thoughts about having a deep keel for Caribbean, South American and Pacific Sailing.Thanks ZMJ

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by zjames

I am looking at a Steel boat that has a deep keel of 10"11". I am concerned about the draft. I have a great surveyor in Ft Lauderdale that will examine the hull and all systems. Great info here thanks. Interested about what your thoughts about having a deep keel for Caribbean, South American and Pacific Sailing.Thanks ZMJ

Too deep if you ask me. 7 ft maybe ...8 ft? hmmm

[hpeer]

11’ draft is substantial. What is the length and displacement?

The Bahamas are out unless you can carry a substantial dink.

Lift capacity is another issue, maybe. It makes you lift the boat higher and then you foul the backstays. I can have this problem with 6-1/2’ draft on 30 ton lifts. At some point you become very restricted on haul out Locations and need to do a lot of advance planning for any maintenance.

[reed1v]

Good lord, almost 11 foot keel? Well, you will never tip over and will have one of the most comfortable rides possible. How long is this monster? Yes, it will mean you stick to channels in the carib and will have to really watch the tides. But it will also track like a train on rails. Get a fast dinghy, like a boston whaler, so you can anchor off into deeper waters when sailing around the carib. Also be sure to rig side support so the boat can sit high and dry in areas like Holland.

You will also need a long, strong ladder to access the boat when its on the mud flats at low tide, and in the boat yards. We had friends with old British pilot boats that drafted 15+ feet. They sailed around the world many times and never thought the draft created problems. IF anything, kept them safe during typhoons when other sailboats were blown over flat and filled with water.

Get a really good depth sounder and bbb anchor chain. Only BBB will do. And of course a big windlass(hydraulic only). Two windlasses better. You can rig up float bags for the turn of the bilge to help keep bottom bouncing to a minimum when anchoring in shallow areas. A pain, but for long term anchoring may be worth it.

Almost all channels conform to the 30 foot international norm, although never rely on navigation markers to be where they are suppose to be(thus the depth sounder).

Otherwise sounds like you got a real ocean going cruiser hull that should take you anywhere you want to go, even to Antarctica. Enjoy.

Oh, I am presuming a really full keel. If it is a fin keel, stay well away from it. Too dangerous, seriously.

[reed1v]

Originally Posted by svrodeorm

Good thread, but this one sums it up IMHO, then it's down to personal preference as always

Sounds like a lot of bs to me. Liberty ships made with rivets had no such problems. Was always the welded hulls.

[reed1v]

Originally Posted by Oceanride007

My steel boat Sierra, I believe is a coreten yacht, its 29 yo, biggest problem is blocked limber holes, also another big problem is beautiful timber work that I am very reluctant to change to get access. Did it once to remove leaky FW SS tank, took me 2 weeks to build up the courage to grab the circular saw. I can't see all the inside hull but confident because what I can see is good, the 3 problems I have had is FW leak from above, ie the water tank, leaky lazarette hatch and blocked shower drain that must have been a long term leak before I bought it.
My boat does feel extra dry compared to GRP hulls. Another good thing is if you can keep on top of the Corrosion you have a hull that is everybit as good as day1, there is no reason why this boat won't last another 29years. Its often the best looking yacht in the anchorage, despite its white paint.

Your drain holes should be accessible after you life the floor boards. If not get a plumber's snake and rooter the suckers out. If the holes are plugged, clean out your blige. Can always cut a hole in the hull to drain it, and then reweld a patch. Sounds like your boat just needs a really good cleaning.

[reed1v]

Originally Posted by GTom

Just to hijack the topic a bit: a (3x?) thicker aluminum is also interesting, however welding is an issue. And of course price...

Why do you think welding aluminum is an issue? Easy to learn, easy to do. Just do not melt everything in sight.

[reed1v]

Except the zinc can finally disappear and there will be no indication till hull failure.

[Patrigo]

A thread from a couple of years ago mentions a white steel hull. Condensation must also be a problem! The only condensation in my hull, (not white and over 30yrs) down below is on my beer can.

[Bigjim]

With a draft like that it dramatically lessens your cruising options, especially around Florida and the Caribbean. You’ll have to carefully check all charts and make sure your depth finder is calibrated perfectly. There’s no room for guesstimation. Good luck.

[reed1v]

Originally Posted by Patrigo

A thread from a couple of years ago mentions a white steel hull. Condensation must also be a problem! The only condensation in my hull, (not white and over 30yrs) down below is on my beer can.

Open cell foam sprayed on the interior hull will stop any condensation plus add a barrier to keep cold and heat out of boat. Condensation depends on weather, boat's air circulation, and other factors. solvable problem