Slippery Steps Solution

[Orion Jim]

3M sticky tape works great.

[hellosailor]

3M makes some marvelous anti-slip "grit tape" that's available in different widths. I'd guess that you could strip the varnish (which is not strong to start with) and then refinish with a more durable urethane or epoxy doped with grit. Since the steps are "indoors" and UV shouldn't be a big issue, epoxy would be the most durable. You might be able to find sand (zircon sand, garnet sand, etc.) in a color that makes it more attractive than just plain sand, or another kind of grit entirely.

But the 3M tapes goes on very quickly, is available all over, and can be removed when or if you come up with a better idea.

[Gerrycooper56]

You can buy the tread master material in a roll from WM and I think it's cheaper than the pre cut treads. Have it fitted on my Tayana 52 to replace the original


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[a64pilot]

I bought a 3M tape that is clear and made to stick in bath tubs to keep you from slipping. It's virtually invisible, stick really well as its supposed to hold even underwater, and as it's made to keep you from slipping in a bathtub, it seems to work really well

[Carlisle Spirit]

I have a Tayana 58 - the black tape works perfectly ( no sanding required )



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[SailRedemption]

Not sure if anyone mentioned it or if the OP is finished, but has anyone mentioned PVA foam grip pads? They use them for surf boards and some wakesurf/skate boards and ski/wake boats..

http://www.northshoreinc.com/store/p...idcategory=176

They even have a clear grip pad..

http://www.northshoreinc.com/store/p...idcategory=176

[SailRedemption]

Originally Posted by Carlisle Spirit

I have a Tayana 58 - the black tape works perfectly ( no sanding required )Attachment 86668



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That looks very well done, great execution!

[CarinaPDX]

I made my companionway steps in a similar manner, with teak and 3 inlays of 1/4" holly strips standing proud. I used teak oil to finish. The holly did eventually wear on the edges so not as good for gripping. I carefully sanded them down to re-establish the sharp edges. You might try doing the same thing rather than sanding them flush. You could still place nonskid behind the holly.

I have used the 3M product on top of the bowsprit, which lasted many years in a very exposed position and performed well. When it came to replacing them I used International's polymeric spheres mixed into the last coat of varnish on the top surface. It looks great - difficult to tell it is nonskid so it blends with the rest of the varnish. It works great - I have used it for 18 years and if it didn't grip my feet or boots when immersed I would have given it up long ago. Finally, when it comes time to varnish again it sands off easily. (I have some worn sand in gelcoat on the housetop and removing that is a nightmare.) Personally I would use the polymeric spheres on the steps if I thought they needed it, but it is as much an aesthetic decision as a practical one.

Greg

[jtsailjt]

Lots of great comments here! Looks like a lot of other folks have addressed this same issue in several successful ways. After checking out the smooth version of Treadmaster, I felt that it wasn't aggressive enough for what I wanted on the steps, so I ordered a sheet of the self adhesive version of diamond Treadmaster (currently on sale at Defender) that I plan to cut to fit to the steps. Then, for the tops of the coamings, I ordered a couple of the 22"x5" self adhesive smooth Treadmaster step pads, smooth because I want to be able to still sit on them.

For those who have used the 3M tape successfully, I also got some of the 2" wide tape that I plan to use on the 2 larger hatch lenses so they aren't so slippery. I plan to apply it over the 3 bars that support the lens so the current 1" wide shadow will become a 2" wide shadow but will still let in plenty of light.

[montenido]

Hi all,

I went to Harbor Freight and bought a pack of sanding belts, maybe 4" x 24". I cut long ovals out of the belts and used contact cement to glue them to my companionway steps. It worked so well that I did both companionways AND my dock steps.

Easy Peezy, and they look good also. The dark color does get warm in the sun, and they have to be brushed clean once in a while. But I have never slipped on these stairs again.

I can take pictures next time I'm at the boat if anybody wants them.

Cheers, Bill

[DeepFrz]

I can take pictures next time I'm at the boat if anybody wants them.

Sure, post them here.

[hellosailor]

jt-
You might want to check with 3M before putting the tape on hatches. There's an outside chance that the adhesive will attack the hatch glazing and four or five years down the line, you'll find it has started crazing.
"Rubber cement" type adhesives typical have a naphtha solvent base, and petrochemicals of all kinds attack both acrylics and polycarbonates. Dunno what is in the 3M adhesive, but they can tell you.

[S/V Pearl]

Here is picture of my steps. Polyurethane interlux varnish, interlux non-skid powder, an additional clear coat of varnish and a final one with stain mixed into varnish to make the non-skid blend in. You could add the stain to the first overcoat and then add more coats to get the desired level of non-skid.

I've tried the tape in both black and clear and it was not satisfactory, came off or slid, and was very hard to clean. This has been a very good solution.

[ohdrinkboy]

Originally Posted by Suijin

I installed the Treadmaster treads on my companionway steps and they are awesome. Very grippy, easy to clean, easy to install.

I have a bullnose edge on the front of the steps and I simply positioned the treads about 1/8" behind where the radius meets the flat part of the step. I put it there so that a) it looked "right" and not kludged" and b) so you would not catch your foot on the edge of the treads. I've had no problems with the treads not coming forward enough, or wear along the bullnose profile. In fact, putting the tread material all the way around the bullnose could well lead to tripping or catching your feet or material on them.

I did this and it works great. Very pleased after 7 years.

[DoubleWhisky]

Originally Posted by S/V Pearl

Here is picture of my steps. Polyurethane interlux varnish, interlux non-skid powder, an additional clear coat of varnish and a final one with stain mixed into varnish to make the non-skid blend in. You could add the stain to the first overcoat and then add more coats to get the desired level of non-skid.

I've tried the tape in both black and clear and it was not satisfactory, came off or slid, and was very hard to clean. This has been a very good solution.

This is - just in my opinion, of course - very good product for similar solution.

Products

It is quite expensive, but pretty economical, as it is extremely long lasting

Cheers,

Tomasz