Securing Floor Panels

[SailFanatic]

I've started on replacing the cabin sole in our Person 31-2. The sole consists of 14 sections of teak and holly faced ply. The five sections not over the bilge sit in formed fg pans with no drainage, see attached. All sections except the bilge panels were screwed in place, the sections in question had a line of glue down their middle but not very effective.

So I am thinking when the new panels go in, that I will glue those five panels in place rather than screw them in, and caulk their edges to try to keep water out (the panels will be epoxied). Good idea? So any advice on sealant to use, something grippy but not permanent as eventually anything needs to come out. The other panels I will screw and countersunk with teak bungs for a finished look.

[FlyingCloud1937]

It appears that the design of said panels, was to allow easy removal for cleaning maintenance purpose.

I don't think I would defeat that design, as it allow not only for periodic removal for cleaning, but also refinishing the floorboards on shore.

look at the PYI floor fasteners in replace of the unsightly screws.

Lloyd

Originally Posted by SailFanatic

I've started on replacing the cabin sole in our Person 31-2. The sole consists of 14 sections of teak and holly faced ply. The five sections not over the bilge sit in formed fg pans with no drainage, see attached. All sections except the bilge panels were screwed in place, the sections in question had a line of glue down their middle but not very effective.

So I am thinking when the new panels go in, that I will glue those five panels in place rather than screw them in, and caulk their edges to try to keep water out (the panels will be epoxied). Good idea? So any advice on sealant to use, something grippy but not permanent as eventually anything needs to come out. The other panels I will screw and countersunk with teak bungs for a finished look.

[Paul Elliott]

One reason to not glue in the panels is if you are holed below the waterline. You want to be able to quickly find and plug the leak. You certainly don't want to semi-permanently cover any through-hulls.

I suppose in the specific case you describe the panels glued over the non-draining pans might act as a double-hull, so holing might not be the critical issue.

[delmarrey]

Here's a set up I built myself that is cheap and holds just as well as anything else out there.

It's just flat head machine screws that goes into a teenuts on the support frames. The tapered hole for the screw head is just 3/4" round plastic drilled, chamfered and cut to the thickness of the C'bored hole. With a cordless drill motor and phillips bit, the screws extract fairly quick.

.

[Chenega]

Originally Posted by SailFanatic

I've started on replacing the cabin sole in our Person 31-2. The sole consists of 14 sections of teak and holly faced ply. The five sections not over the bilge sit in formed fg pans with no drainage, see attached. All sections except the bilge panels were screwed in place, the sections in question had a line of glue down their middle but not very effective. So I am thinking when the new panels go in, that I will glue those five panels in place rather than screw them in, and caulk their edges to try to keep water out (the panels will be epoxied). Good idea? So any advice on sealant to use, something grippy but not permanent as eventually anything needs to come out. The other panels I will screw and countersunk with teak bungs for a finished look.

Before you install the panels, seal the back side and end grain with epoxy to prevent any absorption of moisture. That will preserve any finish you choose.

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by Chenega

Before you install the panels, seal the back side and end grain with epoxy to prevent any absorption of moisture. That will preserve any finish you choose.

Also it'll help the stop black mold from growing on the wood.

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, SailFanatic.

[Gerrycooper56]

What gets rid of the black mold - muriatic acid?

[gjordan]

Delmarrey, Are any of those blind nuts available in SS or brass or bronze? I would think mild steel would rust up pretty quickly. I like the idea of securing the floor boards. _____Grant.

[rognvald]

In a worst case scenario, would it be easier to remove the panels if they were screwed in rather than glued? Many sealing compounds are tenacious and not easy to remove quickly. Good luck on your project.

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by gjordan

Delmarrey, Are any of those blind nuts available in SS or brass or bronze? I would think mild steel would rust up pretty quickly. I like the idea of securing the floor boards. _____Grant.

Yeah, they come in SS, which is what I have. A good marine supply will have them on the shelf in their fastener section. Mine are 5/16".

[gjordan]

delmarrey, thanks for the info. ____Grant.

[pdxsailordiver]

Originally Posted by delmarrey

Here's a set up I built myself that is cheap and holds just as well as anything else out there. It's just flat head machine screws that goes into a teenuts on the support frames. The tapered hole for the screw head is just 3/4" round plastic drilled, chamfered and cut to the thickness of the C'bored hole. With a cordless drill motor and phillips bit, the screws extract fairly quick. .

Delmarrey

What is the sole material? That looks great.

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by pdxsailordiver

Delmarrey

What is the sole material? That looks great.

The edging is teak over marine ply with cork flooring, which has been lacquered over.

Then I use rubber backed throw carpets to preserve it, and avoid slippage if it gets wet.