Preparation: (You know the "P" Theorm, right? ProperPriorPlanningPreventsPissPoorPerformance)
1-Get(buy?)5 4'x8' sheets
, cut in half to 4'x4' for ease of handling/portability....put them in the bed of the TRAILER You're going to need for all the Stuff to execute this ordeal, AND all the "goodies" that You aren't prepared to discard and replace from scratch fm. vessel interior
. Also add 2-3 additional sheets
of plywood cut lengthwise 2'x8' to the collection...more on these later, along w/4-5 cans of house insulating HIGH EXPANSION FOAM (<keep these out of the sun, they become a pain to work w/if highter than 90deg.F when used). Park Trailer w/supplies some place High/Dry and OUT OF THE WAY for the balance of the day (You're going to need access to those trailer hitches later, when time is of the essence, trust me).
2-Shovels...lots of them flat, spade, & w/GOOD Quality handles.
3-(IF THIS IS LEGAL
THERE?) I'd arrive at high tide & examine here You can stage everything equipment wise (as the water WILL come back up that high again...soon, usually about 12 hrs away) & as the water retreats just as soon as You can get close enough to where it matters begin digging a big fat HOLE from the shore side to the KEEL. It's a tedious process when dealing w/"muck" but w/multiple operators You will make progress. dig down to and UNDER the keel LAST. I'd say a 3.5' depth
should work, judging by the pics, about 12' long & 4' wide...deepest for the full length Under the keel. Utmost care should be excercised while working IN THE HOLE, and UNDER the keel. (this vessel HAS to get Vertical to float, or 1 heluva lot closer than as she lies in the pic. Remove EVERYTHING from the interior
that can (for they WILL) puncture Your floatation bags; Salon
Table & drawers/doors come to mind if remaining, some may be buried in the interior "muck". Don't get "obsessed" w/the "finds"...keep moving, the clock is ticking.
4-While that most tedious event (digging the hole...don't worry about water In IT) is taking place, remove h2o from the interior then as much of the mud & much as can be, right over the side (opposite the workers is most recommended side unless adding a new set of teeth to the costs has been factored). Get EVERY BIT that can possibly be removed of that mud/muck OUT of the boat while time permits. SHORT Handled shovels work best for this along with Heavy Duty BUCKETS...including "flat backed" buckets from a feed store. The Mud is going to be Your enemy INSIDE the boat causing heeling the WRONG WAY to accomplish goal of "going vertical".
5-Have somebody young & skinny (i'm 1 of the 2 now) shimmy up the mast
as far as they can possbily get, preferrably to the TOP, and secure at least 1 (Ideally 2) lines via clove hitch & finished w/double half hitches(Note:BE SURE that these are secured UNDERNEATH where the stays attach to the 3/4 points on the mast
. Heavy Duty 1/2" minimum (3 strand anchor
line should do fine, the "stretch factor" Is a GOOD thing in this application) and stake them in the ground above the high water mark
6-Install the flotation bags and inflate them LONG before the tide begins returning. Inspect ALL remaining opening ports/hatches/Cockpit combings and You'll(by now w/o question)be able to SEE where the H20 has been flowing 2andFro fm. within to without.
7-Go get those 2'x8' previously cut sheets of ply & the spray foam. Secure (make watertight) EVERY opening available to water intrusion. Spray the foam around the entire opening after having cut a "cover plate" of the ply, & SCREW to the opening sealing the foam and ply together (it's easy to fix the screw holes later...trust me some more here)
8-Once You've gotten the h2o mud/muck out of the interior & cockpit
(in a boat this size a 3 person venture tops...1 in cockpit
, 1 in v-berth, 1 in salon), PLUG
the cockpit scuppers to the Water Side (or both sides) of the cockpit...and make sure the seacocks are all closed to head
& interior sinks/basins. Where 90% of Your water intrusion has been occuring is via the cockpit, sooo...to the waterside and around the back, spray foam and attach plywood over the OUTSIDE of the cockpit combings to keep the rising water OUT of the Cockpit & "wrap" the plywood around aft to at LEAST amidships, preferrably ALL the way across the back combings.
9-Cover w/foam & ply ALL compartment hatches to the waterside & lazarette where the h2o has been intruding.
10-Get that pump ON a boat on the water side of the vessel as the tide comes up, have it Running, and As tide returns have the pickup as low in the boat as You can keep it.
11-run lines from the 4 corner cleats
and secure to lifelines-railings.
12-sit down & rest as the tide rises. when the water hits the toe rails, have folks on the bow & stern lines set up safe places to hold same.
13-Hook up those 2 long lines secured to the top of the stick to the Trailer Hitches to stout 4wd trucks
14-When the rising creek water hits the bottom edge of the cockpit combings, she ought to be trying to float by then, down side rising & rocking w/the waves. Fire up the trucks & have them pull as close to perfectly perpendicular to the line for to aft of the hull (and in to the previously DUG HOLE) as possible. The higher the water gets, the easier the task becomes, however the boat on the opposite side w/pump ready to shift in to gear
at the first sight of further intrusion is in the right place as You're going to wind
up moving this vessel CLOSER to shore in the end, but vertical and floating. Dragging her THRU the water to deeper water truly is the EASIEST Part of this venture. I guarantee when those truck fire up and GENTLY in 4wd EASE the Lines tight, she's going vertical and going to fall right in that hole, now bobbing like a cork. Folks on the fore & aft cleat lines now become critical.
15-slacken lines fm. trucks & disconnect...return to vessel (they may be needed to supply to the "pump boat" to pull perpendicular to hull in opposite direction in the process of dragging out of the hole it's sitting in. The cleat lines on the opposing side also now come in handy for that task as well. A BIG boat (21-22' minimum w/a 150hp parked on her stern is needed next.
16-Tie up the free bow line to the big boat w/major hp and drag it out of the mud. IF severe resistence is met, have the pump boat grab 1 of those masthead attached lines & head out in to the creek...a combination of heeling the vessel to the side it naturally wants to "lean to" now, as well as the pulling powerboat (You reduce draft/depth of keel & resistance of portion in mud) yanks 'em out every time. It doesn't matter whether she drags sideways (SLOWLY) or forward, she's floating AND Free. IF (worst case scenario) she's still stuck hard while the tide's still rising or can't be freed from the "hole" thru the muck in a mostly fwd direction, have the motor
vessels switch positions (or pump boat simply get out of the way), and put the behemoth on the mast head line(s) and drag slowly to the deep water heeled over until in depth to float. Do this last/worst case only as the strain on those already previously submerged chainplates is severe...they're secured to those soaked bulkheads...need I say more?
Have Big boat drag out until she's obviously clear of the shallows ("too far" is usally "just right"), get the pump boat back in position aside & check again for h20 inside...none? good...next stop is the travellift. Closest is not relevant...least expensive AND available at that time IS. Tying her up to their docks will not be appreciated unless You have pump & 24 hr attendance until travel lift operator arrives following morning.
If You're going to be transporting home/close to home...travel lift raises, sets on stands, You wash out & get to the mast step/compression post and remove all bolts securing same, loosen the rig to 5 turns remaining on all turnbuckles, get a crane to step the mast, (Once crane has secured mast You simply spin off burnbuckles & bungee all shrouds/stays to the mast & away they lift...don't sweat the electical connections, they'll snap free easily (including the ground wire now) & You're going to be replacing ALL Wiring
anyway) and when transporter arrives, have 'em load both on trailer. Then hit the road.
You're going to need cranes/travel lifts at both ends available, a lot of planning, a LOT OF HELP and just a little "luck" (<although cash usually takes care of that 1).
Upside is that when completed(depending on how well equipped) You have Yourself a $30k-$45k valued(per a survey) vessel. You'll have < $10k in the entire venture, and 2heluva tale to tell. I'd rename her "Phoenix", or maybe even "back from the brink".
John, if it's any consolation (I know it won't be Sunday Night, when parts
You didn't know existed ACHE) it literally IS 90% preparation, 10% execution. If all goes well (& You can muster a "crew" of 10) You'll "git 'er done" in 1 day. There's nothing more rewarding than one man's trash becoming another man's treasure. I've done it too many times to count (& have thousands of photos of the ventures). The point of this posting
was to prepare You for exactly HOW this can be done, the way You want to try & do it. So get busy, You've got quite a list to fulfill before getting on the road...
Good Luck, God's Speed, and again (as it can never be said too often)
Don't Let ANYBODY