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Old 16-09-2009, 11:40   #1
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Removing Teak Deck and Making Good on GRP

Hi folks

anyone out there had experience in removing an existing Teak Deck
on a GRP hull & deck and making good ?

we are looking to achieve an attractive, durable finish, obviously non skid
and of course waterproof

The existing deck was screwed into the deck so we have a major resealing and cleanup job to do, not the least of which involves removing all the deck fittings and fixtures

Particularily interested in what materials you chose to use in making good, ease of application and finishing are a consideration
plus of course the cost of materials and time /skill levels required.......

Any text books or references you may know of ... also of interest
we think it is stupid to "reinvent the wheel"

Txs John
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Old 16-09-2009, 12:29   #2
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I did it on my Hans Christian 38. Big job! ended up having the cabin/deck painted and then epoxied down Treadmaster leaving the paint stripe between panels of Treadmaster. Looked great when done, but I wouldnt do it again. I would definitely go with something like Kiwi Coat. That would eliminate the need to paint and take a lot less time and money. Sticking down Treadmaster is a PITA. You have to tape it all off, get the glue down fast, position the treadmaster panel. tape it in place or it will slide on you, then stay away... but also get your masking tape off before the epoxy sets permanent. I just used a 1.5" dia abrasive disc and touched each old screw hole to dish the area slightly...then wiped bondo on it. Then touched it flush with a 4" Makita grinder..and or Belt sander..There must have been a 1000 holes but it really it wasnt that bad. Forget trying to unplug and unscrew the deck... just rip it off and unscrew the remaining screws. I know this sounds crude but you can never get all the screws out... there is goo in the phillips heads etc etc. The nice thing about kiwi coat would be that it will be a little forgiving on the surface it's going over due to it's thickness...so how level the little bondo fills are is important but not critical.
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Old 16-09-2009, 12:35   #3
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Lots of epoxy, fairing, sanding, priming, and a good 2 part paint system, awlgrip, imrom,interlux?? i prefer awlgrip for long lasting finish, mask the areas for nonskid and roll 2 coats mixed with nonskid aditive, big project. Cheers.
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Old 16-09-2009, 14:47   #4
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[QUOTE=Cheechako;332995]I did it on my Hans Christian 38. I would definitely go with something like Kiwi Coat.

Hi thanks for the reply

What is the "Kiwi Coat" is that a brand name ?

is it a two part free flowing epoxy or what ?

from your response it sounds as if it cures to a nice finish ??

How is it applied , by brush or trowel

Does it come in a variety of colours or does it need painting after ?

We would prefer not to use a "Treadmaster" type no slip
but go with a semi permanent non slip finish on the deck

Interested in any other replies with details on this aspect of the job
particularily brand names of similar products
available in the Caribbean or Europe

Thanks again

John H
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Old 16-09-2009, 15:06   #5
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Durabak or Kiwi Coat

There was a thread on this a while back if you can find it.. You can find both these on line if you Google.. they have pictures etc...
Kiwi coat is a one part, coating that comes in colors and you roll on with a textured roller to the desired non skid roughness (depending on the roller) It is fairly inexpensive. Minimal prep also. I've not used it yet but will beusing some in a couple of months. I've heard only good reports on it. It can be touched up later also.
Durabak is similar, reportedly a little more aggressive non skid. Here's a quote I copied from the last discussion: "I recently painted the "roof" over our aftdeck on our trawler with the Durabak...and I haven't seen any shedding...and while I don't have a problem walking barefoot on it....I will readily admit that I would hate to fall on my face and slide....no doubt it would result in a serious case of "deck-rash".... But as far as being a good non-skid surface.... I doubt you can beat it. I will be doing the balance of the nonskid on the boat... Flybridge, aftdeck, side decks, and the bow and bow cabin roof... with the Durabak."
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Old 16-09-2009, 15:58   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheechako View Post
There was a thread on this a while back if you can find it.. ."
Hi
yes I did a cursory search but could not find a thread
rather figured the subject had come up before

Thanks again for info on "Kiwi coat" and "Durabak"
I will check them out
sounds as if they are exactly the sort of propriety products
I need to be looking at...

Just the one line at the bottom about using it on a trawler ??
I presume this was more of a live aboard converted trawler
than a deep sea active trawler ??

Keep them coming guys. the more info the better
txs again

John H
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Old 16-09-2009, 16:05   #7
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I assume it was a powerboat cruising trawler not a fishing trawler... a member here anyway... a little hard to find threads here....
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Old 17-09-2009, 03:50   #8
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Old 17-09-2009, 05:07   #9
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KiwiGrip

I think he meant KiwiGrip

Quote:
Originally Posted by yottiejohn View Post
Hi
yes I did a cursory search but could not find a thread
rather figured the subject had come up before

Thanks again for info on "Kiwi coat" and "Durabak"
I will check them out
sounds as if they are exactly the sort of propriety products
I need to be looking at...

Just the one line at the bottom about using it on a trawler ??
I presume this was more of a live aboard converted trawler
than a deep sea active trawler ??

Keep them coming guys. the more info the better
txs again

John H
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Old 17-09-2009, 05:14   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akio.kanemoto View Post
I think he meant KiwiGrip
Hi,

yes I have already Googled and found that,
but txs for coming back on it

John H
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Old 17-09-2009, 06:20   #11
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I've had great results using gelcoat for nonskid. I applied it thick over a roughed up surface. Then keep rolling it with a heavy knap roller till its set up enough till it doesn't want to roll anymore.(Roller sticks) After it dries knock down the peaks with 220 grit. Got the idea from my drywall days. Its low cost ,durable and leaves an even professional looking texture.
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Old 17-09-2009, 06:40   #12
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We've done this in several areas. The key after removing the teak decking is to tie everything back together. Grind out the holes, fill with epoxy, then cover the entire area with several coats of glass or you will get print through where the holes used to be. We've repalaced about 70 sq ft of teak decking in our cockpit with removable teak and holly panels or Awlcraft 2000 as shown in the photo.

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Old 17-09-2009, 13:13   #13
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Sorry... yes Kiwi Grip
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Old 17-09-2009, 23:50   #14
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I have done several conversions from teak deck to all fiberglass. First the boat needs to have a FRG deck underneath the teak. Not a problem in reasonably new or not so old boats. But of the really old ones had super thin FRG and then teak. Prying up the old teak planks and getting all the caulking out is not easy work. Drilling out broken screws and fixing cracked or crazing in the basic underdeck. Then opening and repairing/replacing rotten or spongy deck coring and/or plywood panels used as mounting "hard" sections. All of this adds up to some significant work and significant amount of time. For a commercial done job, you are looking at serious big bucks.
- - For D-I-Y there is still the time and cost of supplies and boatyard. Do Not use epoxy to fill the screw holes, use polyester resin. Normally you will have to lay some new layers of fiberglass mat to thicken the top skin to account for the missing thickness of teak and polyester resin over epoxy is a no-no. Then there is gelcoating the new deck, painting and installing non-skid pattern or material such as the "Treadmaster". All in all you are looking at a serious period of time and money to remove the teak decking and make the new deck strong and attractive.
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Old 18-09-2009, 01:55   #15
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Serious time and money is right....
This is how ours turned out...all the teak off....filled / sanded, glassed, painted with 2 pack.....I would say the biggest part of the whole job was getting the tracks and fittings off and on again

But its worth it...we took the toerails off as well and rolled the glass over the deck edge for a watertight fit.

Cheers Alan
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