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The best mold release for this type work is Partall Paste Wax #2. You can remove it with wax remover, where some of the more exotic silicone mold releases are harder to get rid of. The best way to go about using mold release, is not using mold release. Lay in peel ply in the form instead. I would wax the rest of the boat.
Also, think about laying down some plastic and outdoor carpeting on all surfaces of the boat so that you don't create a bigger new paint
job than what will already be required.
Grind the bevel from the inside and cut the foredeck back far enough you can work from staging around the boat down handed. Cloth doesn't like to build up much thickness overhead. Lost
a pony tail once...
You'd also be ahead of the game
if you even up the bevels so the repair isn't something shaped like texas
. Where the corners and humps are, you'll get air voids. Drop a plumb line down so that each stack of cloth is the same, just a scotch smaller than the last.
All your jigs and fixtures can be built off of batten screwed directly to the hull from the outside, and the inside of the fixture becomes the work surface. Get the stem right. Loft 2 of them off the line plans. Bolt one to the outside of the boat, bolt the other to the inside of the boat. Use the inside stem to set the shape the battens... Leave them just slack of the inside stem, so you could slide a dollar bill past each and every one. Rabbit them in to the outside stem.
When you have it shaped correctly, remove the inner stem. That projects the inside of the stem ahead of the boat. Just farther ahead than it is supposed to be. Bog out of drywall mud the radius that you want, in its natural position. (this is after the foam...)
I would skin the outside of the form with cheap
plywood or hard board and staples. I'd use use spray foam between the battens. I'd use a surform plane and a 16 inch long board against the inside of the form until I could just see the battens through the foam, but not touch them with sandpaper. That'll keep the repair a smidge low to the rest of the boat, so when you drop the form, your battens will show you low spots not high spots.
I'd roll the foam in resin and let it kick, I'd sand the resin and fill any low spots (they remain shiny) that the long board couldn't reach with bondo. I'd then wax it.
I'd lay peel ply up against the foam, even if I need some staples to hold it into place, and as many darts as required to get a "No Wrinkle" job.
I would use polyester for this, simply because you can get on with the job and its plenty strong. I'm pretty sure alberg
30's were already laid up out of two hull molds and tabbed together on centerline anyway.
I'd start laying up 2 layers of CSM 1 1/2 mat. I'd let it go hard, and shoot it with an infrared thermometer until it passed its peak heat and started coming back down... scuff any nibs with a 24 grit grinding disk by hand, and start laying up alternating chop and woven roving.
You might need to blend some cabosil into the mix to keep the resin from running down out of the cloth.
I'd strongly consider putting a lip on the top, at the deck
line and rolling the cloth up overhead to make a shelf for the deck to bond back down to. Its not that hard to layup, but it would mean you could bond the deck back into place and not have to lay up near as much tabbing overhead.
Once the form comes off, I would lightly grind everything and trowel an even coat of Adtech P17 fairing putty over the surface. I'd finish it off with a coat of Duratech Sanding
primer unless you like working with gelcoat
If you aren't familiar with painting and best practices on longboard sanding, you can get yourself in a heap of trouble. You want to take nothing off of the existing fair hull, but still need to sand from the good onto the bad... never the other way around. You may want to hire on a fairing guy to get her straight even if you are going to do the structural repair and paint
work yourself. There's a certain number of hundreds of hours it takes to get a feel for what is a high and what is hard edge on a really big low spot. The guys that are good are worth the day or two of labor it'll take to get her perfect once the glass work is done. Sometimes you need a few hands to look at the batten. Sometimes a string taped down to the side of the hull and wrapping around it to the stem will show you what a batten won't.
The fellow that taught me fairing, told me once "Don't paint outside the lines." If you don't know if it is a high or a low, don't put on more putty. Use the batten to show only where there is light, do you fill... and only after you've sanded until the batten touches a good majority of the surface.
When you are ready to prime it... shoot it with gloss black enamel, and let it sit for the summer in the sun. Two reasons, you get to "see" it before you spend the time painting it. The second... Let it post cure at high temperature so whatever shrinkage is going to happen, happens. Particularly with that navy
blue paint. It'll be a season or two before things stay stable and you can get a good long lasting paint job that doesn't start showing "Stuff" that moves. I use PPG's 1 part paint gloss black enamel, as Awlgrip T0006 wipes it right off.
The best way to come up with resin quantity: Go get a piece of butchers paper and hold it up against the boat. Figure out the area of the surface you need to work with in square feet. Then calculate the thickness of the layup. Once you grind it back, count out the layers of mat and layers of roving. Mat takes more resin than woven roving. Mat is 1 1/2 oz per square foot. Figure 2-3 parts
resin to 1 part mat. This is on the wet side... Woven is weighed per yard... 18 ounce to the yard. Figure 1 part resin to 1 part woven. This is on the dry side.
It works out to be... just about right.
Once you know your area, know how many layers, you can figure out how many ounces of resin you'll need per square foot. Then multiply by area. Then add a gallon or two.