Not good signs BUT you say you are looking for a project
boat...so lets go further. The design is a popular one and assuming the steel
work was done well enough to begin with, she could justify further work but it really is hard to judge. I am not alone in chronicaly underestimating the amount of work in a steel
Since you can get to that low point in the bilge
(thats good) can you determine the condition of the steel by removing the water
and eye balling? or touching/feeling/brail method? Does it have a bubbling type surface, especially near corners or frame or stringer junctions? Or is the paint
system down there in good shape? Where did the water
come from? What was it's path? What damage did it do on the way? Did the builder
put 'limber holes' in stringers to prevent water from sitting in corners? The corrosion
that you find in that environment
tends to be a combination of atmospheric and electrolitic... so you find sheets
of scale that seem relitively harmless covering the real nasties that I call 'worm-holes' that can penetrate right through the steel in tunnels of a 1/4 inch or 5-10 mm.
Any place that you can see or feel that the rust has scaled.. or 'grown' should be assumed to mean steel repair... but hope it only means removing the scale and treating/painting. (lucky)
If the fit out is very basic or crude, that can actually be a plus if it means you don't hesitate in tearing it out behind spots you can see outside around ports
and such that indicate repair.
Repairing a paint
system that was done poorly at the start and now complicated by repair required for steel work is a big job. But it has to be done to perfection or your work investment is in jeapardy.
Do you have a place to do the work that is cheap
? If the one or two month project
turns into a six month or worse thing, will the mooring
, slip fees
or whatever, break you?
Steel is cheap
, it's the rent, equipment
and paint that can hurt. You are asking good questions so I will assume you have a good idea of the market value for the boat. The rule
of thumb that we apply to these things... now that we are experienced... I give an estimate of time (which = $) and my wife, Kay doubles it, then we haggle and compromise and I try like hell to not embarras myself by going over the adjusted schedule!
We have found good methods for treating weathered steel without blasting, which can be prohibitive depending on your location, and refined our steel patching process so the minimal time is spent on the hard
If you have steel working skills now, or are not afraid to self teach, no matter what, you can do it. BUT SHOULD YOU! It's a value judgement but I assume any steel work is twice as involved as it looks, and like I say... I'm the optimist!
There is good source for info on this forum for steel work like Alan Wheeler, so if you do take it on and it's a big job you aren't without resource.
As evidenced by this rambling statement, this subject has been on my mind anyway. By later today I will have a tech article posted on my web site that will give an idea of what it looks like when it all goes pear shape but how you can win in spite of it.
I'll notify here when it's done. It may cure you of steel forever.. or encourage you because yours couldn't be that bad!