New topside paint atop the old paint?

[Ryban]

Though I originally hauled out only to do new bottom paint and my stuffing box, it seems list keeps growing. Though purely aesthetic, I'm thinking I might as well give my boat new topside paint (the hull, not the deck). The old paint is wearing off completely near the water line, on the transom corners, and has a few scratches here and there.

Here are some photos:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3G3uDCCfiu3tGbWG3

Everything I've read tells me I should use a 2-part paint, but I'm not sure it'll be compatible with the old paint. Moreover, will I be able to get away with sanding the old paint, or does it need to be stripped?

[Cheechako]

Definitely use 2 part paint, 1 part will not hold up and most of the job is labor. Are you sure it isnt gel coat now or do you know it's been painted before? To look nice the most important part is the prep work.

[UNCIVILIZED]

There's a thread on this currently running over on Sailing Anarchy Forums Remove 1 pack to paint w/ 2 pack polymer? - Fix It Anarchy - Sailing Anarchy Forums One other option besides say 2 part Awlgrip is Imron automotive paint. It's 2 part as well, but costs a bit less, & can at times be easier to fix any sections of it should you have to do repairs to your boat. You could also look into vinyl wrapping the boat. Some folks really love it. And there are a fair number of threads on it, here & over on SA Forums.

[Ryban]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Definitely use 2 part paint, 1 part will not hold up and most of the job is labor. Are you sure it isnt gel coat now or do you know it's been painted before? To look nice the most important part is the prep work.

It's paint right now, because I can see the gelcoat underneath. The gelcoat looks like it's in good shape though.

I'm thinking I'll need to strip the old paint to do this job properly. I'll see if I can find a bucket of paint stripper on the island.

[David M]

Do you want to do it yourself or have the yard do it?

Some yards will not allow you to spray. If you want to pay the yard to spray then it will be more expensive but if they do it right it will come out looking truly professional. You have to go with a yard that sprays boats frequently and ideally has an indoor area for spraying so the wind does not kick up dust on a still tacky paint job.

I have never seen a boat where the owner rolled or brushed it on that came out looking anywhere near the mirror glossy look you get by having the paint professionally prepped and sprayed. Some will tell you it can be done but I do not believe it. Seeing is believing.

It really depends on your budget on which direction you want to go.

Just do not use a one part paint. You will be very sorry you did in a few years.

Use a color that is the same or very close in color so the scratches do not show through as well. The hull will eventually get scratched.

[Ryban]

I'll be doing the job myself, and will be using a roll and tip method. Don't have the budget for a spray job, and plus, I don't think this yard could do it properly.

I waffled on the idea of doing a more interesting paint color, but I think I'll just keep it plain old white for exactly that reason -- so the scratches aren't visible. I didn't even notice mine, or the chipping paint, until I looked closely.

[Thumbs Up]

Be careful using paint stripper on gelcoat!

[hellosailor]

Every dollar, every hour, that you spend on prep, pays off tenfold.

White isn't one color, so much as a wider range of whites, but you're right that it is going to be the best choice in terms of not showing when it is damaged, since there's still "white" under it.

Just don't try to cheap out on "automotive" paint. My friend's boat had a beautiful custom hull paint by the PO, who owned a German car dealership. Of course his body shop did the painting for the boss. And sadly, after just ONE night with the fenders seeing some action, there were two big white spots on the hull, where the automotive grade paint wore through. It just isn't marine paint.

[Suijin]

I would not strip the old paint, I would repair gouges, pits, and other flaws with filler, then I would paint the boat with a primer that is compatible with whatever you're going to use as a top coat, then sand and fair again as needed, then put down your topcoat.

You're going to want to prime anyway, to ensure good adhesion, so there's no particular reason to take all the old paint off if it's sound in 95% of the surface.

Having done everything except the actual spraying on my boat's repaint four years ago, i have to say it's a bear of a project. Wrapping the boat is looking pretty good next time around lol. Curious to know what the cost looks like.

[Thumbs Up]

If you roll and tip but want a two pack paint you will need to use something made for that (awlgrip or interlux perfection). Under these you will need an epoxy primer which you will either want to spray or be prepared for a lot of sanding after you roll it on (can't tip this stuff, gets tacky too fast). You could go with an oil based enamel which will require frequent touchups (but easy). I have never tried it but people (on other forums) swear by acrylic house paint (not latex but 100% acrylic). No matter which kind of paint you choose it will never be as durable or repairable as gel coat. Also, if you decide to do this project be careful to preserve your original waterline!

[hellosailor]

" so there's no particular reason to take all the old paint off if it's sound in 95% of the surface."
Except, if the old paint is letting go in some places, it will let go in MORE places, and that usually accelerates. The moisture barrier created by the new layers can actually make that worse. So, why take a chance that all the new work will be wasted and ruined, when the existing paint is already failing?
Or the OP can buy really good sunglasses, and just not look at the paint.(G)

[JPA Cate]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

Every dollar, every hour, that you spend on prep, pays off tenfold.

White isn't one color, so much as a wider range of whites, but you're right that it is going to be the best choice in terms of not showing when it is damaged, since there's still "white" under it.

Just don't try to cheap out on "automotive" paint. My friend's boat had a beautiful custom hull paint by the PO, who owned a German car dealership. Of course his body shop did the painting for the boss. And sadly, after just ONE night with the fenders seeing some action, there were two big white spots on the hull, where the automotive grade paint wore through. It just isn't marine paint.

Fwiw, I completely disagree about automotive two pack. We had our topsides professionally repainted about 10 years ago now, and had them use automotive two pack polyurethane, which they told us would have better gloss retention than marine. It is still glossy, none of that paint has worn through. It has never been waxed, just washed down with water.

However, hellosailor is right, the guys we had paint it had boxes of white paint chip cards, and said they had over 600 shades of white! I was really surprised.

When the op goes to pick his color of white, the deal is to select the chip that "disappears" when he holds it up to his gelcoat, neither lighter nor darker: in that way, the paint will be closest in color to what is underneath.

Ann

[Suijin]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

" so there's no particular reason to take all the old paint off if it's sound in 95% of the surface."
Except, if the old paint is letting go in some places, it will let go in MORE places, and that usually accelerates. The moisture barrier created by the new layers can actually make that worse. So, why take a chance that all the new work will be wasted and ruined, when the existing paint is already failing?
Or the OP can buy really good sunglasses, and just not look at the paint.(G)

The paint integrity on his boat looks fine other than being worn off and gouged in places, from what I can see in the pictures. If it's flaking off or adhesion is failing that's one thing, and I would sand and fair that down, but if it's just beat up that's another. That said, even where it's good I would clean it well then sand the hell out of it so it's completely, uniformly dull in advance of priming.

Stripping all that paint would be a serious bear, and then the prep work afterwards in advance of priming would probably be tripled.

[rwidman]

You could call the paint manufacturer and ask what to do about the existing paint. Or email them.

[hellosailor]

Ann-
I don't doubt that there is some such thing as "automotive" 2 part polyurethane paint. I'd just be real curious to know who thinks it is "automotive" since that entire industry seems to have been on a kick away from lacquers and enamels to water-based zero VOC ecology friendly stuff--which usually isn't a 2-part anything. The job I saw fail, was an automotive paint by an automotive paint maker. I suspect that what you have is more of an aircraft paint, being marketed at other uses. Or something similar. You know, like "Marine Grade Orange Juice". (Surely there must be such a thing?!)
Dunno.