Originally Posted by MarathonBob
Thank you oveer. I'd like to know how to bleed the hydraulic for starters. Than if anyone replaced the deck on Mayflower any info welcome.
She has Perkins
4.236 and no prop, what prop is best for her? The tran is 1.91 to the best of my knowledge so I figure 20R18 will do. Any suggestions?
Also anyone in a know of this particular boat, any info is appreciated. Best regards.
1)The max size for propeller
and optimized for Perkins 4.236 at 2600 rpm
max with the gear
ratio of 1,91 is outer diameter of 21 inches by 15 inch ratio
2)The procedure for bleeding the hydraulic steering
system as I recall
from the last time I did this (2003) is:
two persons required, one for operating the steering wheel
and one to bleed.
ensure the hydraulic oil
level is topped up int the mechanical steering
pump beneath the pedestal
, and keep attention to have liquid present under the hole bleeding operation. Keep the filling plug
on top of the pump open until you have completed the operation.
I believe you have two hydraulic cylinders attached to the rudder
tiller under the bed
in the master cabin
. The hose connection in the opposite end of the piston has to be used for venting. Your assistant starts turning the wheel
slowly in an agreed direction while you are bleeding the relevant cylinder. It is recommended that you stop bleeding before the rudder
is in outer position. Repeat to the other side by venting respective cylinder and repeat to each side until no air is present. To test turn the wheel hard to end of either side, the wheel should stay firm and not turn further when using force in the steered direction.
Please note that the hoses from the mechanical pump to the cylinders should have a positive slope if possible to avoid air pockets.
Please also note that if you have problems with the steering it could also be caused by wear in the cylinders pistons gaskets allowing the oil
to escape to the return side. It is recommended to change those, you can easy do it your self, no special tools required and the cost for the o-rings is just a few dollars.
3) replacing teak deck
: your deck planking is fixed from underneath the deck with SS screws. In order to access these you have to dismantle all ceiling panels
under deck. The screws may be difficult to loosen, and also some may be hidden under wood for fixing ceiling panels
etc. You might have to grind the head
of the screws where you cannot manage by screwdriver. The teak deck
is also bonded by use of product similar to Sikaflex. So my recommendation is to try to remove as much screws as possible before starting to try to remove deck planks, which might be a struggle:-)