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Old 16-01-2011, 11:12   #271
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ok, but is the 'concept' similar? other then location?

is the tube you are talking about outside the hull, before the rudder? is that tube submerged? or is it exposed shaft thru the hull then all the 'stuff', hoses/tubes, etc.


damn, wish we could get some pics... kinda funny how there isnt original docs or schematcs available???
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Old 16-01-2011, 11:13   #272
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Replacing A Cutlass Bearing Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

so, this would be similar to your cutlass bearing?
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Old 16-01-2011, 11:23   #273
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Berg... check out post#24 and 26... the actual stuffing box is I believe in the beam....
The cutlass bearing is similar but I'd imagine it'll be fitted into the hull instead of a strut... not with Zee's hull design
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Old 16-01-2011, 11:24   #274
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Sometimes its like this. From the ocean side. 2 nuts then prop then zinc. plate with 4 bolts and has threads to receive cutlass bearing. On my boat the bearing goes to a machine shop and machined so it screws into the retaining plate. Then we have a shaft log and the stuffing box inside. Very much like the rudder stuffing box. On boats with a great distance from the stuffing box to the flange on the motor there is a bearing. This keeps the shaft in line. Its what I think I see in your pictures. Not sure any more which piece is giving you trouble....
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Old 16-01-2011, 11:24   #275
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ll my stuff goes thru the hull just before the rudder post....then travels forward to the transmission thru this tube that sits between s haft log and packing gland....these are the working pix..
Picasa Web Albums - zee hag - working folde...

the bits giving me trubles are the 30 inch tube and packing gland afore the beam... both have electrolysis and donot look healthy..
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Old 16-01-2011, 11:31   #276
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ya, ok, i ant tell which if fore and aft in teh pics, nor do i know which is hte shaft log or the packing gland, in those pics...

sorry... im at my limit.

as for a resin tube, can one be fabricated? using pvc as a mold?
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Old 16-01-2011, 11:35   #277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeehag View Post
ll my stuff goes thru the hull just before the rudder post....then travels forward to the transmission thru this tube that sits between s haft log and packing gland....these are the working pix..
Picasa Web Albums - zee hag - working folde...

the bits giving me trubles are the 30 inch tube and packing gland afore the beam... both have electrolysis and donot look healthy..
Whats the diameter of the tube and the diameter of your shaft.. surely one can get a corresponding length of steel tube and thread the ends as nessecary.. this is assuming your fitting a new gland...
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Old 16-01-2011, 12:08   #278
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Cant hurt to annoy you with more questions. It sounds like the shaft log enters the interior and continues fwd to the beam with the greased up stuffing box. What I thought was a bearing. Its this fwd interior tube/log that is giving you heart ache.
Some how the stuffing box is sealed to the shaft log. I suppose you could glass the log in and tab the glass back to the beam and the hull. pull the shaft back and cut the log off and glass in a fiberglass tubethat mates to the stuffing box.Ive used pvc as a log linercoming through the dead wood but not in the case where its exyended inside. A glass tube would be better for that application. Not sure but think maybe just glass the old one in many layers of biax cloth and epoxy could be a an option
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Old 16-01-2011, 12:08   #279
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you can find steel or brass tubes and thread them....
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Old 19-01-2011, 08:46   #280
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Hey Zee:

Back to a suggestion I made a while back, for what it's worth. Why don't you whack off the shaft tube about four inches forward of the cutlass bearing with a hacksaw? Then you can see inside to see if the remaining four inches is solid. If so, you could buy a dripless shaft seal with a hose whose inside diameter matches the outside diameter of the shaft tube. You would then whack off that pesky beam and its attached stuffing box and throw them away. So your new arrangement would be a dripless shaft seal attached to the four inch stub of your existing shaft tube. An economical and secure fix (albeit with some substantial "whacking").

Others-- does this make any sense?
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Old 19-01-2011, 08:55   #281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tia Bu View Post
Hey Zee:

Back to a suggestion I made a while back, for what it's worth. Why don't you whack off the shaft tube about four inches forward of the cutlass bearing with a hacksaw? Then you can see inside to see if the remaining four inches is solid. If so, you could buy a dripless shaft seal with a hose whose inside diameter matches the outside diameter of the shaft tube. You would then whack off that pesky beam and its attached stuffing box and throw them away. So your new arrangement would be a dripless shaft seal attached to the four inch stub of your existing shaft tube. An economical and secure fix (albeit with some substantial "whacking").

Others-- does this make any sense?
I'm guessing that since the stern tube is in the trailing edge of the keel that this is a completely in-accessable area.

John
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Old 19-01-2011, 10:53   #282
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the stern tube is 30 inches from beam/bulkhead to outside the stern of boat before the rudder with concrete over it--it attaches to shaft log and to packing gland-- the dripless is 500-800 dollars, depending on kind, and the regular unit is around 100 dollars. i will see what the yard says about this tube thing-- mebbe have to do something back at the concrete or just before it...is easier to access there-- i also pu tin a call to the leaky teaky guys--i know someone has done this with the concrete not long ago--have to tap the knowledge bank again...
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Old 19-01-2011, 16:35   #283
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After looking at the Algonquin catalog, does this make sense? I've bolded terms that I'm being careful with, and I've used the terms used by Buck for their parts.

On the trailing edge of the keel is the Stern Bearing Housing, seen on this page.
Buck Algonquin...Quality Marine Hardware Since 1955
The top of photo of the housing in the web page is the part closest to the propellor, and the top is where the cutlass bearing is inserted and held in place with set screws. The bottom end is threaded according to the specs on the Buck web page. Presumeably this screws onto the stern tube. The flange of the Stern Bearing Housing is bolted onto the trailing edge of the keel. I believe that the flange of the Stern Bearing Housing is bedded to the trailing edge of the keel forming the watertight seal there. Water lubricates the cutlass bearing and is inside the stern tube up to the Stern Tube Packing Box (stuffing box), seen on this page.
Buck Algonquin...Quality Marine Hardware Since 1955
This Stern Tube Packing Box is also threaded according to the web page, so I assume it is threaded onto this end of the stern tube. Each end of the stern tube threaded onto Stern Bearing Housing on one end and the Stern Tube Packing Box on the other must be a watertight seal. If this is the case the stern tube shouldn't be difficult to remove.

Hah, after typing all this I finally found a good web page:
Paul Gartside Ltd.


I was concerned that Zee's repairs might cost a lot more than anticipated because of the type of boat I'm used to. The aft end of the stern tube is glassed into the aft end of the keel on my boat. The cutlass bearing goes into the stern tube and there is no Stern Bearing Housing, everything except the propellor shaft and propellor is inside the keel. Removing the shaft tube on my boat can require significant glass work, especially the way they did it on my boat when it was in the hands of a previous owner. I have since found on the web where someone just made a slide hammer and slid the stern tube out even though it had been glassed in.

John
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Old 19-01-2011, 16:51   #284
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Zee,

I've looked at the pics of your tube........what I can't wrap my head around is why the tube? If it was me, I'd explore removal of the bronze tube, replace with a short piece of glass tube with appropriate epoxy and glass reinforcing and add a dripless shaft seal. Check defender, the pss is around 250-300. All told in material you'd have the seal (300) the fiberglass tube (??100??) and a size "A" kit of west epoxy(50) $450 not counting the haul. You'd be free of the bronze tube and not need to make regular trips into the pygmy hole to tighten the packing gland....
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Old 19-01-2011, 19:22   #285
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pygmy hole is size of godzilla, and lot of it is in the hold wherein the quadrant resides--i am lucky i didnt listen to the naysayers on formosas-- this is most expensive thing aside from engine and this is scariest thing. most everything is right there in front of ye-- is so much different than my other boats. this is bigger and scarier..LOL...there is just shy of 30 inches of tube between the packing gland and the concrete-- i am looking into re modelling this mess---- i have to see what i can use and do with the funding i have. the dripless would be awesome but i think the pricing is a bit steep for right now. i m working qith kate fom the yard-- as far as how to deal with teh mess i have without costing a way lot and without potential sinking feelings....there is a new gore material fo rpacking glands that is a drip free packing i have been told about.......
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