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Old 04-09-2006, 22:07   #61
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Tony,

I think that short of actually laying a teak & ash (or teak & holly) floor, the teak & ash veneer plywood is the next best looking thing. Frankly, I am no cabinet-maker, and my rudimentary self-taught carpentry skills are just not up to the job of actually laying a floor, but I should be able to lay some ply! The veneer is damnably thin though, so I have a feeling there is going to be quite a few coats of 2-pack varnish going onto it!


Charlie,

The current thinking is stainless steel for the fuel and polyurethane for the water tanks. I am not sure that the tanks actually leaked (getting them all tested is on my list of jobs for the next couple of weeks). I think a lot of the "leaking" was actually spillage from filling. I find it hard enough to pour water or deisel from a jerry-can when the boat is level in flat water, let alone rolling about a 20 degree heel in a short period 3m sea! Take 20+ years of small spillages when filling and you have got yourself a problem (or maybe they just leak!)... anyway, I will know shortly.

Anyway, thanks for the interest in my little project guys. It is always nice to get a bit of positive feedback and comments.
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Old 05-09-2006, 18:04   #62
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Good luck with it Weylan:

Seems like twenty years is a limit for some major boat systems. I just bought a 1985 Sceptre 41 and there are alot of things that need to be upgraded for safety reasons just b/c of the age. I have aluminum tanks and they don't leak but I would like to check them to make sure that they won't start leaking soon.
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Between us there was, as I have already said somewhere, the bond of the sea. Besides holding our hearts together through long periods of separation, it had the effect of making us tolerant of each other's yarns -- and even convictions. Heart of Darkness
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Old 14-09-2006, 06:13   #63
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Damn Weyalan!

Nice job, I love guys that take pride in their work below the floorboards.

Keep up the good work.
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Old 14-09-2006, 07:45   #64
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Regarding your efforts, we thought you might find the following web-site of interest http://wingssail.blogspot.com/ . We've been following the travels of the Roswalds since the left Seattle aboard a converted flush deck Serendipity 43 race boat in 1996.

Old race boats make better cruisers than one might think.

Good luck!

s/v HyLyte
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Old 14-09-2006, 14:48   #65
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Thanks for the link... interesting reading. Always good to know that there are others with the same "silly" ideas as me!

Just another minor milestone has been achieved: The boat is watertight (well, very nearly....I still have to fit the new bronze thr-hull for the engine's water intake). But I have glassed in the 4 x 2.25" holes where I removed the old instrument senders. Why would you have 2 x sounders and 2 x speed leg senders is beyond me, but whatever...

The thru hulls went through some of the thickest areas of the hull. About 1.125" or so thick. plugged the holes as follows: 12mm marine ply plug, coated with resin and inserted in the hole, slightly closer to the inside than the outside. then ground the glass in a shallow "bowl" shape until the bottom of the bowl touched the plug. On the inside I glassed with about 7 layers of fairly light chopped strand; I had to use light because the holes were close to beams and the heavy stuff doesn't like going around corners so well. On the outside I used 5 alternating layers of heavier chopped strand and bi-axial. Each layer was about an inch larger than the last. I really didn't have the knowledge or equipment to vacuum bag, but I wetted out thoroughly and only laid up 2 layers at a time, and waited for the resin to "go off" before applying the next 2. It seems to have gone on all right and was well "wetted" at each stage. This weekend I am going to lay some "bog" over the new glass which will be faired back to get smooth hull shape again... aaaaaah; sanding and grinding over on's head - what joy!

Incidentally, I spent a happy couple of hours last night running a whole heap of "undressed" wood through a thinknesser (if that is a waord), to turn rough cut lengths into smooth beautiful pieces for internal fit out battens / cleats, etc. I got the wood from an old guy who lives along the street from me - he has piles of it stored under his house - I gave him a bottle of wine and he let me help myself - its all celery-top pine, has been drying for 10 years or more and is perfect material for this application
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Old 12-11-2006, 14:09   #66
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I thought it might be about time for a "sit-rep". Work continues; slowly but surely.

I had to get new fuel tanks. I pulled out the old ones, for polishing, and found they were badly pitted in places (they were 21 years old), so rather than risk them leaking in the next couple of years, I decided to replace them (boat = break out another thousand!). I got the new ones made slightly thicker (1.5mm instead of 1.2mm, 316 stainless) and also a bit bigger, so we now have about 5 or 6 gallons extra tankage, which may not sound like a lot, but is an extra 10 hours motoring.

I have also replaced all the fuel lines and ball valves. The fuel lines were the old clear nylon tube, which I don't believe is even legal any more. I have used "premoflex", which is a good quality approved hose, and good quality ball valves and L-valves.

Over the weekend, we (Admiral Lisa & I) managed to get all the new floor panels cut out and fitted. I must admit I was pretty nervous about cutting the teak & ash veneer plywood (beacuse is is so damned expensive, I really, really didn't want to mess it up. I bought new high-quality blades for the jigsaw, crossed my fingers and let rip (have you ever tried to operate power tools with crossed finger? Not. Easy.)

Anyway, after 2 long days of careful cutting, planing, trimming and fitting, the new floor is in & fitted. I took a couple of photos for the scrap book.

Saloon, looking aft
Note the new engine box


Saloon, looking forward
Note the new fuel tanks


The floor panels have been removed, and are sitting at home, for sanding, timber preserving and varnishing over the coming evenings. There are a total of 7 panels in the saloon. Some will be fixed in position, the others will be removable. The fixed panels have 8" x 8" removable access hatches, to allow access to the bilges. I plan to put 1 more coat of flowcoat in the bilges before the floor goes in - I will probably not get another chance to do it, so might as well take the opportunity.

The new engine box makes it's first appearance. It will be painted, of course (I ended up using some rather shabby looking ply that I scored from the local tip), but once it is painted up, it will look fine. The small hole in the aft face will house the volvo instrument panel, which is situated so that you can see the engine revs from the cockpit. Lisa's brother is a carpenter, so he is making us a new table for the top of the engine box. I managed to get hold of a pile of huon pine, which is one of the most beautiful timbers you will ever see, so it should be a good looking thing. I have got hold of some acoustic insulation / fire retardant lining foam for the engine box. Damn, is that stuff heavy! It looks like foam with silver foil on it, but, apparently, it has a layer of lead in the foam.

Obviosuly there is still a fair amount of work to do. The new engine box will be painted, as will the new bunk fronts. There is a lot of coving and fairing to be done, and heaps of painting, but that can be done in the water, over the coming months.

So that is where the refit is at. Still a long, long way to go, but progressing nicely.
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Old 12-11-2006, 15:06   #67
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Weylan:

Wow!! You've done alot of work and it is looking good. Sorry you had to take the trip to the Whit Sundays (LOL) that must have really hurt your schedule. I'm sure you'll get over it though.
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Between us there was, as I have already said somewhere, the bond of the sea. Besides holding our hearts together through long periods of separation, it had the effect of making us tolerant of each other's yarns -- and even convictions. Heart of Darkness
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Old 13-11-2006, 02:57   #68
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Weylan,

As I am fairly new to this site I am glad you resurrected the thread. Interesting stuff and glad you are still plugging away!

No doubt your initial experiances on her have helped keep you going, rather than having started with the tool kit!
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Old 14-11-2006, 12:34   #69
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As always Weyalan, nice work!

Love the photos, keep em coming.

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Old 15-11-2006, 13:01   #70
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The teak & ash is coming up beautifully... 3 coats of timber preserver (5 coats on the end grain), and a light sanding... varnish goes on next (the veneer is only about 1mm thick, so probably 3 coats of 2-pack varnish). I'm going to put another coat of flowcoat in the bilges before the floor goes down. The bilges probably don't "need" anothe coat, but I figure, what the hell, it won't do any harm, plus it will probably be a long time before they get any more.

I have finally managed to get the electrician to commit to putting in an ppearance (next week). He is going to wire the power in to the engine, nav lights, saloon lights and CD player (i.e. the bare essentials for crusing .

Going back into the water is getting closer. I'm excited!
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Old 15-11-2006, 14:16   #71
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Weyalan-
Nice floor job, surely you are going to veneer the engine box to match, like a proper bespoke suit, right?<G> Gonna be a handsome boat when you get finished, it looks like you've turned the point where demolition changes to "getting better every day".

When you are pouring from a jug or jerry-can, the right way to pour is totally not the intuitive way. Most of us try to pour with the mouth of the jug down close to the funnel. That's no good, because the fluid going out will fight with the air coming in to replace it, and the fluid splashes and sloshes. If you pour "the wrong way" with the mouth on top, the air can get in evenly, the fluid pours evenly, and there's less mess.
Also, if you've ever seen a picture of a hillbilly hoisting a jug, sitting it on his arm instead of pouring directly? That's a good way to pour from a jug, having it sit on your arm instead of hanging it from your wrist makes it steadier to pour.
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Old 15-11-2006, 15:22   #72
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Thanks for the advice on pouring... I took the easy option and purchased a gizmo that screws onto the top of my jerry jugs with a length of hose and a nozzle like a petrol bowser, that fits striaght into the tank filler... No spillage for me Actually, I am reasonable good at pouring (I own some nice big funnels), its the previous owners over the last 20 years that need lessons! heh heh.
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Old 16-11-2006, 01:38   #73
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Weyalan,
I've only just caught up with this thread and wish you well with Insatiable. She was a well known boat in her day. Before we bought our old girl (Van de Stadt 34') we very nearly bought a Duncanson 37 that was for sale in Kettering. In the end a bit too much work to do by remote control from Sydney but I did have many a lovely daydream about cruising Tasmania. Fabulous part of the world and I'm determined to sail the old girl down there sometime for an extended cruise sometime next year. Wish I could do it for the timber boat festival but not feasible I'm afraid. The D'Entrecasteaux channel must be one of the finest stretches of cruising water on the planet.
Cheers
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Old 16-11-2006, 12:45   #74
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Andrew,

Ssssshh! Keep quiet about the D'Entrecasteaux Channel, cobber, it is the best kept cruising secret on the planet! Apart from the temperature difference (air & water), it has got The Whitsundays beat by a mile... and although I enjoyed the coral trout, sweetlips & mackerel, I'll take the crayfish, abalone, scallops and flathead! Hopefully we will see you down this way sometime.

I have something of a soft spot for VandeStadt designs... I have sailed quite a lot on a 24' Vandestadt Buccaneer and a 37' steel Vandestadt cruising design, so I was particularly pleased that Insatiable is a Vandestadt design... not that you would pick it as such - it looks like every other 80's IOR 40
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Old 16-11-2006, 15:22   #75
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I should add that while the D'Entrecasteaux Channel is a beautiful piece of water there are some serious warnings any potential visitor should take heed of. The place is overun with the deadly marinuswombatus. If you've ever wondered why there are no salt water crocs in Tasmania then this fella is the reason. Vicious I tell you, a real killer. Also, the weather is complete crap. It's cold wet and miserable for most of the year and even in the high season it rarely gets above 10 degrees celcius. Food and fuel are in short supply, there is no local produce, prices are insanely high and the locals are all a bunch of redneck drunkards, some with two heads due to inbreeding. You have been warned !!! Picture attached.

(Aside to Weyalen.....you think the mongol hoards will deterred ? Yeah, I reckon I've fooled 'em. Once they see the pic of MWA they stay well away.)
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