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hoppy · 29-11-2010, 15:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weyalan

Thanks for the link, hoppy. Food for thought, for sure.

It seems like you Swedes know how to make good boat gear... the last 2 major purchases for Insatiable have been Swedish... Selden Furlex headsail furler and Flexofold propeller... keep up the good work!

They like there "pekan" on the front.

I'm tossing up between getting one of these or a Selden removable bowsprit If I by a genni on I decide to get a genni that is.

The flex fold looks interesting. I've thinking about getting a Kiwiprop .

Weyalan · 29-11-2010, 17:16

Please bear in mind that the improvement in motoring performance was as much about how bad the old prop was as how good the new prop was.

The old prop was a 2-blade feathering prop (Autostream), approx 4500mm diameter, adjustable pitch
The new is a 3 blade folding (Flexofold) 16" (410mm) diameter, 12" pitch

The main problem with the old one was that it was very old and worn, which no doubt effected its performance significantly. I know people who have new Autostream feathering props who are quite happy.

With the old prop, in flat water with no wind, and clean bottom, we would make about 4.5 knots at about 2200 rpm. We did not use higher revs because the prop would just cavitate. With the new prop, in similar conditions and at similar revs we will make 6 knots.

Also, with the old prop, it was really bad with waves and wind. At 2200 rpm, into 20 knots of wind, with 1m short choppy waves we might make 2.5 - 3 knots. With the new one we will make about 5 - 5.5 knots.

delmarrey · 29-11-2010, 18:24

When I installed my furling I wanted it a bit high for a couple reasons. Being able to see under it is a plus for me. And I hate that dark streak left in the sails foot by the forward pulpit. The foot of the sail IMHO should not be rubbing anything when under tension.

I built a special toggle to get the drum high enough to clear the pulpit. That extra li'l bit of sail gains nothing on my vessel. She's over rigged as it is but it is great for the light air.

.

dennisail · 30-11-2010, 00:10

Thanks Weyalan. That prop really changed the performance from substandard verging on dangerous to pretty much spot on. Quite good really considering its a 40 foot boat with a 30hp? motor. Shows the difference the prop can make. I don't suppose you took pics of the old and new props?

With the furler, will your current headsail be compatible?

**Jim Cate** · 30-11-2010, 00:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weyalan

Thanks for the link, hoppy. Food for thought, for sure.

It seems like you Swedes know how to make good boat gear... the last 2 major purchases for Insatiable have been Swedish... Selden Furlex headsail furler and Flexofold propeller... keep up the good work!

Gawd, patrick, you trying to start a Scandinavian war?? I do believe that the F-O-F comes from Denmark!

Cheers,

Jim

dennisail · 30-11-2010, 02:04

Oh yeah. Where are the interior pics of the carbon?

I just read this whole thread from start to finish again. This is definitely one of my favorite project boat threads.

Weyalan · 30-11-2010, 17:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by dennisail

Thanks Weyalan. That prop really changed the performance from substandard verging on dangerous to pretty much spot on. Quite good really considering its a 40 foot boat with a 30hp? motor. Shows the difference the prop can make. I don't suppose you took pics of the old and new props?

With the furler, will your current headsail be compatible?

New prop: 3-Blade folding propeller - Flexofold

We currently have 7 headsails (#1 light, #1 reg, #2, #3 racing, #3 cruising, #4 and storm jib. All of these will will fit in the luff groove, but the #1 ref will be too long in the hoist, as will the #2 probably. The racing #3 has battens, as does the #4. So that leaves the #3 crusing headsail. We might get the #2 cut to suit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Gawd, patrick, you trying to start a Scandinavian war?? I do believe that the F-O-F comes from Denmark!

Cheers,

Jim

Oops. You are, of course, correct. My apologies to our Danish friends.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dennisail

Oh yeah. Where are the interior pics of the carbon?

I just read this whole thread from start to finish again. This is definitely one of my favorite project boat threads.

I am terrible at remembering to take photos. We are planning on heading off down the channel this weekend... I'll try to remember the camera.

beetle · 01-12-2010, 22:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weyalan

At this stage it looks as though we will install the drum as low to the deck as possible, then work out how to get the anchor working afterwards, even if this necessitates changes to tha bow roller arrangement.

What about mounting the furler drum below deck level, keeping the jib tack in it's normal position?

dennisail · 02-12-2010, 01:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by beetle

What about mounting the furler drum below deck level, keeping the jib tack in it's normal position?

That sounds scary if it jams?

beetle · 02-12-2010, 07:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by dennisail

That sounds scary if it jams?

That depends on the kind of furler chosen and the size of the well the furler is set into.

Think of the furler well as something akin to an anchor locker with an opening lid, with the furler tacked to centerline - the well needs to be as deep as the furler drum is tall to get the headsail tack down to tack-hook level, and you need clearance around the drum to inspect and maintain it (and, as you point out, unsnarl the furling when that happens). I personally don't like the Harken closed-drum approach as it makes working on the furling line difficult; ProFurl and Schaefer (the one I have) have an open drum, and continuous line furlers (Facnor) don't have a drum at all.

The design does require the correct blocks to lead the furling line up to the deck and then aft, which adds friction and wear to the furling line - that's a downside to a furler set in a well. That said, it's been done and done well, if getting maximum sail area and an end plate are important.

At least it's something to think about. The one's I've been around look like a tiny anchor locker set in the deck one to two feet aft of what would be the stem fitting, with a chainplate set up through the bottom of the well and into the hull. Access to the furler guts isn't that difficult, and it sure helps to not use a closed-drum furler.

- rob/beetle

Weyalan · 13-12-2010, 16:35

The long awaited head refit photos...

Frist the original arrangement, pre-refit... i.e. as purchased:

Nasty, eh?

Weyalan · 13-12-2010, 16:48

New head area, starboard side:

You can see the new toilet (electric). In the new cabinet on forward bulkhead you can see the new through-hull and ball valve for the outlet (yes, it is stainless steel, we already went over that

). There is a new through hull and ball valve for the water inlet, too (also stainless). You can see the vented loop in the upper part of the cabinet. The carbon fiber bench top is just marine ply (with a doubler), with carbon laid on.

The above pic shows one of the new hatches, with teak trim fitted. The rather nasty plastic handle is for bracing when using the head at sea... it is only temporary... we will make a nicer one (teak, maybe) at some stage.

New head area, port side

This was previosuly just some hanging space and storage for a danforth anchor against the hull. you can see the other new cabinet (vanity?), with lots of storage, plus carbon fiber bench top with a small stainless sink and hand pump. The sink has its own dedicated (stainless) through-hull and ball valve in the bottom-right cupboard

All of the cuboards have doors, with nice teak rings and latches, but we haven't got around to fitting them yet (not great finishers, us).

There's a new hatch and teak trim on the port side too.

we also replaced the floor:

The section on the port side is removable. It is planned that, in the longer term, that will become the shower sump. The other part is sealed down with the removable hatch for access. The floor matches that in the saloon, so the overall effect is good.