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anjou · 07-01-2010, 05:51

What is the best ratio of over all length to waterline?

Obviously the gap is greater for a Ketch and the extended bow allows for an extra mast but the trade off is extra length above water.

For a sloop, what is an ideal compromise to provide a good rig but also utalise the maximum length at the waterline?

No point paying for deck length thats uninhabitable.

**David M** · 07-01-2010, 06:23

Although its graceful looking when I see a deck and rigging extending far beyond the waterline at both the bow and stern, I also think what an inefficient use of waterline that could have made for a faster boat.

denverd0n · 07-01-2010, 06:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by anjou

What is the best ratio of over all length to waterline?

First, I don't think there is any "best". Some people like a very blunt bow and stern, and some like a lot of overhang. Depending on the design of the boat, much of that overhang can add to LWL as the boat heels. As long as it isn't taken to extremes, safety isn't an issue, so in the end it is mostly a matter of what looks good to you and balancing living space below.

Quote:

Originally Posted by anjou

Obviously the gap is greater for a Ketch...

Huh? Why? There have been ketches built with very blunt bows and sterns, as well as with extended overhangs. I don't see how the fact that a boat has a ketch rig has anything to do with this.

**Hudson Force** · 07-01-2010, 07:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by anjou

........Obviously the gap is greater for a Ketch and the extended bow allows for an extra mast..........No point paying for deck length thats uninhabitable.

It sounds like you're referring to only a specific subset of split rigs. Plenty of ketches are designed that accomodate their rig without an extended bowsprit. Many cutters and some sloops also have great bow or stern extended LOAs. I agree with the idea that the space is better used with the longer waterline, but it's not a factor that is related to a ketch. 'take care and joy, Aythya crew

Pappy Chris · 07-01-2010, 07:07

For my tastes I like a lot of overhang on both ends with a large sprit and with a dramatic sheer. In my mind it is a genuine "classic" look. Speed is of no real great interest to me as long as I get there.... eventually. It's all about tastes and how you intend to sail her.

Sailndive345 · 07-01-2010, 07:14

I have always been a sucker for a clipper bow with a long bow sprit... Don't own a boat with one in order to save innocent bystanders dockside from harm as I approach to dock the beast....

Fair winds!

Sailndive

Pappy Chris · 07-01-2010, 07:25

I have a 26 Kenner Privateer Cutter under construction. I figure I will have to learn to back it with a single drive or put davits on it for a dinghy to utilize a mooring ball out. The sprit on it is nearly 60".

LOA 31' 9"
LOD 26'
LWL 20'5"

CarlF · 07-01-2010, 07:29

While I love looking at a Hinckley B40, I'll take the speed of a plumb bow (not "blunt", I want a very fine bow that is easily driven and doesn't pound).

It's true on the old designs that you get more waterline length when you heel. Who wants to heel? I like a boat that sails with minimum heel. So does my wife. The extra hull speed from a plumb bow can be 1/2 a knot. The boats will also steer fine (actually better) as long as the designer keeps the forefoot shallow.

The downside? Well, many plumb bow boats are built for flat out racing and that narrow bow doesn't have much buoyancy. Gets pretty wet. But there's no reason a plumb bow shouldn't have a much buoyancy as a traditional bow of the same LOA.

Now a bowsprit is another matter. It can pile on a lot of sail -- but it only helps until you reach hull speed.

Carl

Sailndive345 · 07-01-2010, 07:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pappy Chris

I have a 26 Kenner Privateer Cutter under construction. I figure I will have to learn to back it with a single drive or put davits on it for a dinghy to utilize a mooring ball out. The sprit on it is nearly 60".

I predict you'll build a serious amount of character by the time you get it down...

Good looking boat, BTW!

Blue Stocking · 07-01-2010, 07:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by David M

Although its graceful looking when I see a deck and rigging extending far beyond the waterline at both the bow and stern, I also think what an inefficient use of waterline that could have made for a faster boat.

My first boat was a home built 20ft on deck Friendship sloop. Bowsprit end to main boom end 29ft6ins.
With 70ft of mainsheet, jibsheets, and tails for 2-part running backstays, the cockpit looked like a bomb had hit a rope factory.
Is a pretty boat though

Maren · 07-01-2010, 07:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by anjou

What is the best ratio of over all length to waterline

A lot of what we have come to like in styling has more to do with what results or resulted in a favorable handicap for racing than. It used to be long bowspirits were the rage. Now it's more plumb bows.

Otherwise, it has to do with individual preference. So I suppose the next question is what do you like?

Pappy Chris · 07-01-2010, 07:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sailndive345

I predict you'll build a serious amount of character by the time you get it down...

Good looking boat, BTW!

OR quite a vocabulary and/or given a few nicknames by others.

Thx!

Maren · 07-01-2010, 07:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pappy Chris

OR quite a vocabulary and/or given a few nicknames by others.

I'm glad I'm not the only one whose noticed recalcitrant inanimate objects love it when you speak dirty to them

Bash · 07-01-2010, 07:54

the whole reason transoms were invented was to eliminate the excessive weight of overhang. Overhang is what makes those beautiful boats of yore hobbyhorse so much, because it puts weight in the exact spots where you don't want extra weight on a boat. I want zero overhang in the stern, not only for performance reasons but because I use the boat as a swimming and diving platform. It's hard to get back on an overhung boat when you're wearing a weight belt. In the bow I want just enough overhang that I can weigh anchor in a swell without having to worry about the hook trying to set itself in my gelcoat. Ideally, my LOD (length on deck, which is a less deceptive figure than LOA) should be no more than a foot or two longer than my LWL.

Not Sure · 07-01-2010, 09:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pappy Chris

I have a 26 Kenner Privateer Cutter under construction. I figure I will have to learn to back it with a single drive or put davits on it for a dinghy to utilize a mooring ball out. The sprit on it is nearly 60".

LOA 31' 9"
LOD 26'
LWL 20'5"

Beautiful boat! Wow, 11' between waterline length and total length. That may be painful when it comes time to pay for a berth