Cruisers Forum
 


Join CruisersForum Today

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 28-02-2016, 16:43   #76
Registered User

Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 429
Re: Keel Bolt / Stud Leaking

Quote:
Originally Posted by minaret View Post
Can't just cut teeth without bending in kerf, or it will just bind. I've found it pretty easy to cut a hole saw in half and weld the two halves to the respective ends of a piece of pipe, then grind the weld flush. Then you can chuck it into a Hole Hawg. If you have a metal cutting chop saw it's super easy to make a square cut and it all just lines up. Thread is usually only on the top of the bolt/stud, therefore not at risk of damage.
Maybe my neighbour did something else to wreck his threads, I wasn't there, just saw the result.

As obvious to me as it is to you that kerf is needed for any depth, wasn't intending to provide a complete guide in a few sentences.

Not clear to me from your description - are you butt-welding the hole saw to a pipe of exactly the same diameter & wall thickness?
If not, how do you drill deeper than the joint?
Is there an English version of a "Hole Hawg?" - it's just that the name is unfamiliar to me.
__________________

__________________
unclemack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2016, 15:22   #77
Registered User

Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 139
Re: Keel Bolt / Stud Leaking

A continuation of this thread around my leaking keel. Was trying to narrow down the pathway for the leak in/out of my bilge. Boat is an old Viking 28, built by C&C 40 years ago. A very shallow bilge, i'll post a couple of pix. Here's the drill....

Isolated each bilge section between stringers and flooded with acetone, then climbed down the ladder and stood next to the stern of the keel where the leak was trickling out. Turned out to be one section only (sternmost) with two 1/2" diam studs/nuts. Glass layup in that region looks like a couple of bits of cured hull were bonded onto the actual hull, under say 3 stringers for about two feet, only near the stern end. Poor fitting of extra hull pieces left gaps on each edge, that had been covered in matt and was all delaminated.

So I isolated each side and poured in more acetone. Starboard section leaked out the keel joint in half a minute. Starboard pour showed no leaks. Getting closer. Now here's the rub, being a newbie boat owner and having read that keel nuts should be torque periodically, I decided that was worth a try. 10 nuts, all poorly torqued down, so I brought them back to correct C&C spec of 80 ft-lbs using my trusty torque wrench. Got 1-3 turns on each to hit that setting. Repeated the acetone bath and now NO LEAK. No sign of an outbound keel joint leak at all. Happy daze in every sense.

Here's the question: Am I done here? I'd used acetone to prep/degrease the "crack" prior to trying to inject some resin down, but if the acetone can't get through after retorquing the keel nuts I can't imagine how much better I can make it without the huge effort of dropping/rebedding the keel.

Second question: Cast iron keel, very shallow keel stub in hull, and a good layer of filler faired over everything. Took it down to bare metal/glass around the leaking stern section of the keel joint. Again, have a pic to post. My inclination is to grind it/blast it until shiny, butter the dug out keel seam with epoxy/HD406 filler, then put a couple of layers of glass over the region to seal the outside. After than, likely about 1/2" filler to fair. Is this good practice? Yes, I'd love to strip the entire keel to bare shiny iron and apply 4 coats of epoxy based paint, but it ain't happening this year, launch is about 2 weeks away. If I'm on track with this, can someone suggest a brand of "bondo" that best suits this application. Appreciated.
__________________

__________________
Dymaxion is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2016, 16:04   #78
Registered User

Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 139
Re: Keel Bolt / Stud Leaking

A continuation of this thread around my leaking keel. Was trying to narrow down the pathway for the leak in/out of my bilge. Boat is an old Viking 28, built by C&C 40 years ago. A very shallow bilge, i'll post a couple of pix. Here's the drill....

Isolated each bilge section between stringers and flooded with acetone, then climbed down the ladder and stood next to the stern of the keel where the leak was trickling out. Turned out to be one section only (sternmost) with two 1/2" diam studs/nuts. Glass layup in that region looks like a couple of bits of cured hull were bonded onto the actual hull, under say 3 stringers for about two feet, only near the stern end. Poor fitting of extra hull pieces left gaps on each edge, that had been covered in matt and was all delaminated.

So I isolated each side and poured in more acetone. Starboard section leaked out the keel joint in half a minute. Port pour showed no leaks. Getting closer. Now here's the rub, being a newbie boat owner and having read that keel nuts should be torque periodically, I decided that was worth a try. 10 nuts, all poorly torqued down, so I brought them back to correct C&C spec of 80 ft-lbs using my trusty torque wrench. Got 1-3 turns on each to hit that setting. Repeated the acetone bath and now NO LEAK. No sign of an outbound keel joint leak at all. Happy daze in every sense.

Here's the question: Am I done here? I'd used acetone to prep/degrease the "crack" prior to trying to inject some resin down, but if the acetone can't get through after retorquing the keel nuts I can't imagine how much better I can make it without the huge effort of dropping/rebedding the keel.

Second question: Cast iron keel, very shallow keel stub in hull, and a good layer of filler faired over everything. Took it down to bare metal/glass around the leaking stern section of the keel joint. Again, have a pic to post. My inclination is to grind it/blast it until shiny, butter the dug out keel seam with epoxy/HD406 filler, then put a couple of layers of glass over the region to seal the outside. After than, likely about 1/2" filler to fair. Is this good practice? Yes, I'd love to strip the entire keel to bare shiny iron and apply 4 coats of epoxy based paint, but it ain't happening this year, launch is about 2 weeks away. If I'm on track with this, can someone suggest a brand of "bondo" that best suits this application. Appreciated.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	TimPhoneMay2016 264.jpg
Views:	89
Size:	404.8 KB
ID:	124210   Click image for larger version

Name:	TimPhoneMay2016 269.jpg
Views:	79
Size:	404.1 KB
ID:	124211  

__________________

__________________
Dymaxion is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
keel

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Suitable metal for replacement keel bolt in cast iron keel? OrangeCrush Monohull Sailboats 43 20-04-2016 20:25
Keel J bolt replacement in lead keel funjohnson Construction, Maintenance & Refit 24 15-01-2015 05:11
Cable Lug Stud Size Rating US1Fountain Electrical: Batteries, Generators & Solar 9 16-02-2011 14:45
Keel Leek Fix / Keel Bolt Questions brianontheroad Construction, Maintenance & Refit 11 16-06-2010 19:39



Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 22:03.


Google+
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Social Knowledge Networks
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.