So here is what I would do to get this bodge saililng.
Mainsheet - Start the rope by tying it at the lower ring - to the pulley if it has a ring like the top one (if not consider swapping the upper and lower pulleys) - else tie to ring. Take it up and run it through boom pulley. Take it down and run it through lower pulley - I wouldn't run it forward on the boom like you have it. You don't have a way it appears to cleat the mainsheet. Dinghy hardware
is relatively cheap
and you may consider replacing this later. Many sheet arrangements have a built in cleating on the lower block. After sailing a bit and feeling the boom loads you may end up wanting double upper and lower blocks for mechanical advantage. You may also consider buying
a ring like the one at the mast
and getting rid of the hose clamp thingie. You can drill the boom for the ring and use something like a #10 sheetmetal screws although through bolts would be more secure and not have a risk of working loose later.
Hard to see perspective but when/if you do that try to get the ring further back on the boom (over the traveller rope when centered if possible.
Traveller rope - This is a common arrangement. Needs to be a bit tighter - noy piano string tight or anything like that but maybe 2 inches of "bow" in the middle. That should sort the mainsheeting.
The luff - It's good to see the luff has eyelets. So you want a way to secure the eyelets to the mast and have it run up and down smoothly. My guess is the PO just "spiral wrapped the rope going through the eyelets around the mast and used a stopper knot
What I would do is go buy some heavy duty zip ties. I would "loosely" put a zip tie around the mast - a zip tie for each eyelet. Leave about a 1/2" gap (or less) between zip tie and mast.
Now - remove the bolt rope from the eyelets. Start at one end and thread the rope through a zip tie, then and eyelet, through a zip tie and then and eyelet till you get to the top. You don't want to "cinch" the rope and scrunch up the sail - but you do want all the slack out of the rope. The first time you do this you might lay it flat on the grass so you know the luff is straight.
When you have it right you could mark the rope for next time.
If you wanted to spend some boat bucks you could buy a sail track and matching lugs and install that but for now the zip ties will work.
In fact with the halyard
dropped - you could flake the sail and not have to rerig this very often. The key is to leave a small gap so the zip ties slide up the mast when you hoist.
- You could simply tie the foot off after hauling tight but I would invest in a couple of really small pulleys so I could adjust the outhaul
Here's why - A "fat" sail (lot's of curve) is good for low speed power - good when you are in a choppy sea and the boat is being slowed by waves and you want it to accelerate quickly between wave. A fat sail has more drag so in smooth water
you want a flat sail to minimize drag and maximize speed.
Imagine also there is a line projecting forward from the plane of the aft end of the sail to the fattest part near the front of the sail heading off to the front of the boat. A second line is made from the trailing edge to the leading edge - this describes an angle - the flat sail has a smaller angle - the fat sail has a bigger angle.
This angle describes (roughly) the steering
accuracy you need to "catch" the wind
in the sail. A fat sail has a big steering
angle and a flat one has a narrow angle. So in choppy seas a fat sail = accelerate, big steering angles & slow top speed. Flat sail = higher top speed, narrow steering angle, point closer to the wind
Some folks learn - improperly - that they sheet in hard, flatten the sail but the boat slows down. So they fatten the sail a bit and think they got it right. Then someone with the same boat passes them by on a beat because the are pointing higher and going faster. Then they think there must be something wrong with their boat.
Really they had it right, they just hadn't optimized the angle of attack and were making steering errors.
This is like 4th gear
in your car also. You can't just flatten the sail, sheet in and point up. Racing
texts often call this"shifting gears." You have to bear off the wind a few degrees, flatten the sail and as the boat accelerates point higher and keep sheeting until you are "in the groove." Then you have to stay there. Fall off the wind by pointing too high or low and you lose it and have to start over.
That usually happens in choppy seas or gusting conditions - it's too hard to steer that precisely so a fatter sail is needed at the sacrifice of top speed and pointing.
Good luck - Looking forward to pics on the water!