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Old 11-07-2011, 00:18   #16
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Re: Islander 36

It could be that the gelcoat was worn thin enough to allow light to hit the fiberglass. Light will shine through very thick fiberglass laminations if not blocked by gelcoat or paint. It doesn't mean that the layup is thin or defective.
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:36   #17
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Re: Islander 36

In my peruse of boats in the bay area, I was very very comfortable on a I36 and was surprised that I could manage a boat of that size singlehanded. My cutoff was around 32. But, she felt like a glove. Alas, the interior was not that great for me, as I hated the galley.

If you do consider one for offshore use, check the bulkhead tabs and consider strengthening or resetting.
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Old 11-07-2011, 12:29   #18
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Re: Islander 36

Thanks for the reply SaltyMonkey. I really like the idea of the skeg-hung rudder, having had a jammed rudder from a deadhead that bent the rudder post one time. I know that there is an active I36 organization in SF Bay area. Prices for them are a little high in that area. I did find one in Lake Mead for $12,500 - but it had a gasoline engine and it was in Lake Mead - too much boat, too little lake.
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Old 11-07-2011, 13:57   #19
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Re: Islander 36

Fiberglass is translucent and lets light through unless there is an opaque layer of gelcoat or paint to block the light. You cannot tell the thickness of the layup from the amount of light coming through. Had a Morgan that did have serious problems with the hull thickness. Drilled holes in the hull to measure the thickness. Areas that had a lot of light and I thought to be the thinnest turned out to be the thickest. Other areas that transmitted less light turned out to be the thinnest. The only way to tell the hull thickness is to drill holes in it. Sailboat Mfg spray on an opaque layer just so buyers don't panic when they see light shining through the layup.
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Old 12-07-2011, 13:57   #20
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Re: Islander 36

I've sailed a couple of them here in the Pacific NW in some rough inshore conditions, and I liked the boat a lot. The fore triangle is pretty large, and while it's been awhile now, I do remember the interiors were really dark - but that's easy to fix. Considering their age, I would have a very hard look at the hull/keel joint. I don't know if Alan Gurney used placed ballast in the design, or keel bolts, but if the latter I would insist that at least one keel bolt be withdrawn during the survey. As always, get a good survey.
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Old 20-07-2011, 11:55   #21
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Re: Islander 36

Since I own one i may not be as objective as some but I love my Islander 36. She is stiff and true in any condition and for the money she is hard to beat. By the way Zac Sunderlands Islander 36 Intrepid is now on the market if you want one that would be ready to go around without anything needed.
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Old 20-07-2011, 12:53   #22
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Re: Islander 36

Lonestar - Couple of questions. Can you fill me in on how the keel is attached? - either molded or placed-in-cavity? And if you have tiller steering, how happy are you with it?

Like you said, these boats really do look like good deals - there's a 1972 model in Kansas (fG's sake!) that lists for $18,000. Of course it would cost $5,000 to get it to salt water. Another 1982 model in SoCal that is well equipped and asking $43,000.
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Old 21-07-2011, 14:43   #23
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Re: Islander 36

Hi Billy,
I just purchased a 1977 I-36 haven't gotten to go out for a real sail yet, but I was impressed with how the boat sailed in super light air at the sea trial. On my boat there is a lead keel attached with either galvanised or mild steel keel bolts - at this point there's not much difference since if they were initially galvanised it's all gone by now. The other boats I've seen have all been the same, except for one with an Iron keel - on the boat with the iron keel, the bilge sump was a lot shallower and appeared to be filled with encapsulated iron ballast, to make up for the difference in density v. a lead keel. One thing to take a good look at is the mast step - I looked at 4 36's here in So Cal, and all but one (the one I ended up buying) had some pretty bad corrosion, even so far as in one case half the mast was missing for about 3 inches and had been shimmed up by a few pieces of wood. If you look on the islander 36 class association web page Islander 36 Association, sailing, racing, cruising and maintaining sailboats under their maintenance link you can find a lot of information about the boats and various issues that have popped up. Hope that helps a bit.
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Old 22-07-2011, 05:57   #24
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Re: Islander 36

Billy,,
My Islander 36 is a 1981 so it is wheel steering. As hdra stated it is lead keel attached with bolts. I 2nd the Islander 36 web site. It is great if you spend about 20 min you will know about everything there is to know about these boats.
As for the boat in KS with the shipping cost and it being a 72 I would look at the boats in Cali where all u would have to do is sail north. Zac's boat is also overthere you might want to look at it.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:27   #25
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Re: Islander 36

I just bought an I36 in the SF bay area.My understanding is that the ballast is attached to a steel frame and the keel bolts are also attached to the steel frame.So,the keel bolts are upside down and you cannot remove them.You can only remove the nuts.There is a steel backing plate in the bilge .
If you think you have a keel bolt problem the best fix might be to install additional keel bolts.Just drill down and tap a thread through the steel and into the lead.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:37   #26
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Re: Islander 36

The base of the mast on my I36 looks fine.However,looking in the bilge above the fwd keel bolt I can see the end of a thick steel plate that I think supports the mast.The end of this plate is rusted and flaking.Not sure how serious this is.
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Old 17-08-2011, 07:32   #27
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Re: Islander 36

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Originally Posted by nonam View Post
The base of the mast on my I36 looks fine.However,looking in the bilge above the fwd keel bolt I can see the end of a thick steel plate that I think supports the mast.The end of this plate is rusted and flaking.Not sure how serious this is.
If you could load a pic that would help. Most time you cant tell the true condition of the base of the mast till you pull it,,or worse yet try to pull it and its rusted to the base.
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Old 17-08-2011, 12:25   #28
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Re: Islander 36

Per Bob Perry's book on yacht design, the version of the Islander 36 with the Pathfinder diesel and iron ballast is considerably more tender than the earlier version with a Perkins 4-108 and lead ballast.
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Old 18-08-2011, 20:15   #29
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Re: Islander 36

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Originally Posted by sv.Lonestar View Post
I would look at the boats in Cali where all u would have to do is sail north. Zac's boat is also over there you might want to look at it.
FYI - In case you saw it at the Channel Islands boat show, Intrepid is now in Marina del Rey. Actually, it's one dock over from mine, I was talking to his dad yesterday. That boat has the sweetest hard dodger on it and the boat looks to be in great shape. For anyone local, it's lying against the seawall right in front of the Ship's Store on Panay Way.

Mike
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Old 22-08-2011, 08:22   #30
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Re: Islander 36

Mike in LA - Good looking hard dodgers are not easy to find. If you get a chance, would you take a few pics of it and post it here, and/or email to me at bill *dot* higgins aat expeditors *dot* com ?? I would really like to see this on an Islander 36. Thanks!!
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