the bulkheads and other plywood
. Depending on the quality of the plywood
, the exterior veneer can be anything from paper thin to an 1/8" or so. I've had some veneered plywood that was so thin that barely touching it with a sander ground through exterior veneer.
I've had terrible luck with Watco oil. It stays sticky, attracts dirt, turns black with mold
. and looks like crap in a month or less of application. I've seen furniture finished with Tung Oil that was beautiful but don't know how it holds up on the exterior. Varnish
will work if you are anal about staying ahead of the UV/wear. Need at least 5 coats of varnish initially and then a recoat every 1-4 months depending on your location and sun exposure. Every few years you'll have to take it back to bare wood and start over. There are newer varnish like products on the market from Sikkens and others. Some people swear by them, I swear at them. They tend to have an orangish, almost paint
like finish that, to me, looks worse than weathered naked teak. There may be some even newer varieties of the above that don't have the strong orange hue. Didn't find these varnish substitutes to be any longer lived than real varnish. Last time I was at the chandlery
, noticed that Epifanes has a new varnish especially for teak and other oily woods. Haven't tried it see if it is any better than their regular varnish that I like.
Be careful sanding teak. My old boat has had the caprail varnished for a long time. Unfortunately, the following owners didn't stay ahead of the UV breakdown of the varnish so had to sand heavily to bring it back. The cap rail is now only about a quarter inch thick, down from its original 3/4".