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Old 24-02-2010, 12:09   #31
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For us inland water sailors and non Racers...I like the advice you got on replacing it wire by wire...I have done this before, as well as my running rigging on other boats this way.

On our current boat I made the decision to replace the forestay as long as we were it is the hardest to get at once the roller furling foils are on..Next year it will be the back stay...The following years both main mast shrowds...then the lowers...etc..ect ..On to the Mizzen as the years pass.

Quick simpel and not hard on your pocket book...Do your Running rigging the same way...I find nothing wears out the same on need to go replacing everything all at once if you dont want to.

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Anybody want a Sea Ray ? Dicker away!

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Old 24-02-2010, 12:18   #32
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Originally Posted by pressuredrop View Post
Stone - do you paint the galvanized rigging?
Well I was taught in the 60's that an occasional wipe down with an oily rag was the best way to maintain/preserve the wire... slows oxidization.
Painting would not work for long as oiled hemp is/was used in the plait...

Castoff... for more Thames Barges try this link..
Some were just used on the Thames and Estuary but others crossed the Channel to trade..
Sailing Barge Association Home Page

Some more traditional UK craft which are still sailing...
I do not exist to impress the world.
I exist to live my life in a way that will make me happy.

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Old 25-03-2010, 09:33   #33
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Stianless steel is less likely to strectch and there fore will snapp. The wire is usually over size to begin with. The swedged end fittings are more likely to fail. Look for cracks at the turn buckles. Twenty years IS a long time. Back in the 1960's Insurance companies wanted the boat to be rerigged every ten years. Load testing by a qualified rigger or engineer is a way to go. Rerigging probably is less expensive on boats less than say 50 foot lod.

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