Hard Dodger (Sprayhood) Illustrated Guide - Examples, Tips

[Steadman Uhlich]

Hard Dodger Design #24 "Non-Skid or Anti-Skid Dodger Top"

IF your Hard Dodger is sturdy enough to support the weight of crew, it may be a good platform for reaching the boom hardware and mainsail when it is dropped, such as when reefing or stowing.

In that case it would be a good idea to put some non-skid or anti-skid material on that dodger top surface to give your crew better footing while working that position.

I saw this photo and it serves to illustrate how it might look.

[Steadman Uhlich]

Hard Dodger Design #25

Notice the wood handhold position on this one. It appears to near the center of the dodger top.

I would prefer a long handhold (stainless tubing) near or on the edge of the dodger. But I can see how the owner was matching the other wood handhold on the cabin top.

[Terra Nova]

Some of these GIY designs are simply unbelievable!

One of my hard dodgers, on a Rawson 30, has completed a circumnavigation. No photos.

[Steadman Uhlich]

Hard Dodger Design #26 View Forward

This dodger appears to have clear plastic panels (window panels) that open forward for ventilation.

[Steadman Uhlich]

An illustration of one method of attaching the hard dodger and clear panel.

[Steadman Uhlich]

Hard Dodger Design #27 "Garcia Exploration 45"

This is the dodger on Jimmy Cornell's boat.
This is a composite dodger, attached to an aluminum boat.

[Zach]

Here is another build thread for hard dodgers... http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...se-127763.html

[Snowpetrel]

Originally Posted by Steady Hand

Hard Dodger Design #25

Notice the wood handhold position on this one. It appears to near the center of the dodger top.

I would prefer a long handhold (stainless tubing) near or on the edge of the dodger. But I can see how the owner was matching the other wood handhold on the cabin top.

I deliberately set my handrails well inboard on my dodger. Ergonomically it worked much better, you could lean in close to the dodger on a rolling boat with the handrail in a comfortable position with a partially extended arm rather than having your arm tucked in too close to your body. It also enabled me to sit on the dodger comfortably without the handrail digging into my backside.

Another benefit is that the handrail acted as a stringer for the 12mm ply top, reducing flex in the unsupported middle span when standing on the dodger. It also made climbing onto the top easy as the handholds were far enough inboard to be useful.

[Don C L]

Originally Posted by Snowpetrel

I deliberately set my handrails well inboard on my dodger. Ergonomically it worked much better, you could lean in close to the dodger on a rolling boat with the handrail in a comfortable position with a partially extended arm rather than having your arm tucked in too close to your body. It also enabled me to sit on the dodger comfortably without the handrail digging into my backside.

Another benefit is that the handrail acted as a stringer for the 12mm ply top, reducing flex in the unsupported middle span when standing on the dodger. It also made climbing onto the top easy as the handholds were far enough inboard to be useful.

That's the way to do it. Seems most handles are put where they look nice, not where they work best!

[DDabs]

hard dodgers make me, well, hard. sorry. great thread.

[Littlechay]

Great thread. My home sailing grounds are an area where a hard dodger is not optional if you are going to enjoy your sailing. I have done quite a few miles in the tropics mainly in the last three years too; in boats designed for high latitudes. My own boat's hard dodger was designed only for ergonomics and function and little thought was given to aesthetics with the end result that from some angles it looks great but from other it looks errrrr not so nice.

I built mine from ply sheathed with bi-axial glass and epoxy. Clear Plexiglas windows.

Cost one sheet of 16mm ply and two of 9mm, a big tub of epoxy, glass was given to me .. the most expensive part was the plexi I think . Total cost circa 150 USD. Fabricated the stainless steel hand holds etc. myself. The roll bar supporting the main-sheet track was made from 42mm stainless tubing... maybe another 100 USD for all the tubing I bought but about half was used for the radar/wind-generator goal post on the stern.

I can see through and around it to see head sails while hand steering and up to the main. I have tiller steering so when docking I just stand up on the cockpit side and steer with the stick so there is no loss of visibility.

Aries wind-vane control lines come all the way into the dodger so minor adjustments are made from under cover.

Here are my thoughts; in no particular order.

Steeply sloped windows, so that water runs off quickly, preferably reverse sloped like the new Garcias but really difficult to make look nice. The steep slope also reduces the greenhouse effect (I don't like the Van de Stadt designs for this reason). Reverse slope is best for water shedding, gives great shade and reduces reflections from instrument illumination or other stray lights.

Clear glass if you are going to keeping watch under the dodger at night.

Need to be able to sit under rather than just hide behind.

Strong enough to not have to ever worry if it is strong enough.

Mine has the main-sheet track on top (it has a very strong tubular roll-bar inside which gives the whole thing immense strength without being too heavy).

A good strong place for solar panels but the obviously catch shade often.

Plotter, radar, sonar etc.. should be safe under the dodger

ideally you can close the back with a roll up door. Mine has small side sections that are semi-permanently installed with a large centre panel that rolls down and zips to the sides giving complete protection.

As mentioned above hand holds well inboard so that you can walk around either side using the hand holds even while sailing with normal angles of heel.

Provide shade as well as shelter.

At least the mainsheet and preferably all sheets accessible without have to climb too far.

Really important.. make sure that water blowing back over the dodger will not run over the back and down your neck, same around the sides. I put decent lips around the back edges of the top and sides of mine that deflect the spray. 90% successfully.

There will be a mark II for my boat. Keep the ideas coming.

[Steadman Uhlich]

Hard Dodger Design #28

Some hard dodgers are simply made of wood and covered in glass cloth and coated in epoxy, then painted to match the hull or deck. Or not.

This one still shows the grain of the wood.

Like it or not. It is distinctive and shows some craftsmanship.

I like wood boats and nice design. I also like the nice curve or arc of the laminated supports on this one.

[Steadman Uhlich]

Originally Posted by Littlechay

Great thread. My home sailing grounds are an area where a hard dodger is not optional if you are going to enjoy your sailing. I have done quite a few miles in the tropics mainly in the last three years too; in boats designed for high latitudes. My own boat's hard dodger was designed only for ergonomics and function and little thought was given to aesthetics with the end result that from some angles it looks great but from other it looks errrrr not so nice.

I built mine from ply sheathed with bi-axial glass and epoxy. Clear Plexiglas windows.

Cost one sheet of 16mm ply and two of 9mm, a big tub of epoxy, glass was given to me .. the most expensive part was the plexi I think . Total cost circa 150 USD. Fabricated the stainless steel hand holds etc. myself. The roll bar supporting the main-sheet track was made from 42mm stainless tubing... maybe another 100 USD for all the tubing I bought but about half was used for the radar/wind-generator goal post on the stern.

I can see through and around it to see head sails while hand steering and up to the main. I have tiller steering so when docking I just stand up on the cockpit side and steer with the stick so there is no loss of visibility.

Aries wind-vane control lines come all the way into the dodger so minor adjustments are made from under cover.

Here are my thoughts; in no particular order.

Steeply sloped windows, so that water runs off quickly, preferably reverse sloped like the new Garcias but really difficult to make look nice. The steep slope also reduces the greenhouse effect (I don't like the Van de Stadt designs for this reason). Reverse slope is best for water shedding, gives great shade and reduces reflections from instrument illumination or other stray lights.

Clear glass if you are going to keeping watch under the dodger at night.

Need to be able to sit under rather than just hide behind.

Strong enough to not have to ever worry if it is strong enough.

Mine has the main-sheet track on top (it has a very strong tubular roll-bar inside which gives the whole thing immense strength without being too heavy).

A good strong place for solar panels but the obviously catch shade often.

Plotter, radar, sonar etc.. should be safe under the dodger

ideally you can close the back with a roll up door. Mine has small side sections that are semi-permanently installed with a large centre panel that rolls down and zips to the sides giving complete protection.

As mentioned above hand holds well inboard so that you can walk around either side using the hand holds even while sailing with normal angles of heel.

Provide shade as well as shelter.

At least the mainsheet and preferably all sheets accessible without have to climb too far.

Really important.. make sure that water blowing back over the dodger will not run over the back and down your neck, same around the sides. I put decent lips around the back edges of the top and sides of mine that deflect the spray. 90% successfully.

There will be a mark II for my boat. Keep the ideas coming.

LITTLECHAY (Chris),

Thank you for adding your very good post. I appreciate that you took the time to write in detail and shared your view. Your experience is esteemed and your opinions valued.

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by Steady Hand

...I also like the nice curve or arc of the laminated supports on this one.

Except that it doesn't match anything on the boat.

[Don C L]

So partly as a result of this thread, I am thinking now a hard frame (of course) and soft snapped-on windows will be my choice, since I'd rather a larger wave blow out a window or two rather than do more damage... (my boat's a little lower to the water than the newer ones...) (not that I am getting hammered all that often!)('hammered' as in hit by a wave... other hammers are another thread) In my case I'll think about a roof that hinges up too, since otherwise I'll be banging my head on the thing every time I come out of the companionway.