the bridge deck comes up to the top of the coamings then slopes forward at about 45 degrees as a flat surface - the hatch is mounted on that flat surface - you just step on that deck and over and through the hatch onto the companion way ladder - it has 4 or 5 steps - can't remember - it's all stainless and aluminum
and is attached to the engine
room door which swings to port...
So far as the keel bolts
- they are a bit scary as are all stainless things under salt water
. I found that all the small bolts were type 88 or 304 and all of them had crevice corrosion
at the inside glass / stainless backing plate level. The 316 main bolts at the fore and aft end of the keel were ok. I replaced all the 88s with monel - haven't pulled any since then so I don't know, but I am assuming the most noble metal there is will survive ok.
Someone asked about the iron keel - it will pit - even a sizable amount, but you just sandblast to white metal and instantly coat with epoxy
and fair with epoxy
putty. In the interim you can clean out any spots and just use roofing tar on them (the plastic stuff) - it is also good for isolating aluminum
from wood or other metals. No you don't have to break the bank on MARINE
products!!! We also xrayed this keel when I bought it courtesy of a naval research
facility, but the results were useless. If you are going to run into things exposed lead is the preference with iron next, but if you are going to worry about the keel falling off, an embedded keel is a bit of a relief - as long as you don't hit anything!
I am happy to share our experience of the last 20 years. Oh btw - I thought the original chainplates and plywood
were really lame, so I replaced them with 4' long aluminum u channel 4" x 1/4" thick that ran under the deck along the sheer. The stays connect via inverted SS 1/2 or 5/8 diameter ubolts through the deck and u channel Those were tied to the bulkhead with diagonal straps and turnbuckles - total over kill, but not hard to do. The boat also has triple headstays, a flying headstay, and double backs. A lot of this wouldn't have been done if the gear
hadn't come with the boat. Why triple headstays? Well the genny is on the roller furler
, then there are the two stays for the twin headsails - one on either side of the furler
, and then the flying one is brought forward if you want to run the booms'l with a single
sheet when single
handing. More windage perhaps, but no worries about the stick going forward or back - it is a cruiser afterall, even though it has done well in racing