Originally Posted by Yachts66
About those pesky rust stains? What do they likely mean?
I am a neophyte in terms of ferro. However now that my brother has one I am in "fast absorption" and make some common sense decisions mode.
Firstly, I have bounced and pounded my way all around the deck
. Having been on GRP, Steel
and Wood boats it is hard to describe what the deck
feels like under foot. Ulike wood and GRP there is absolutely no give at all. It is like jumping up and down in a cement parking lot. It is "tank" like in how stiff and solid it feels. The closest neighbor to me is steel
Which brings the "rust" issue to the forefront. Knowing that the boat is a bunch of mesh and cement it is clear to me that water
intrusion and disintigrating mesh is a bad thing. I can see on a bad layup
that voids in the mud would be bad. I don't know how you would really check for that and the second part is even after laying up a perfect hull, like all boats, you need to attach stuff to the hull and make penetrations for services to pass through creating potential ingress paths.
My brothers boat has staining that is "typical" of steel boats and ferro boats I have seen. The most concerning places were chain plates and rudder
stocks, pintles and gudgeons. There is also surface rust on many attached items fabricated out of ferous steel - dinghy davits
, windgen mast
, bow roller bracket, the rear "porch" (that was fabricated from steel and bolted on).
Bottom line is that all these areas appear to be the ferous steel, and bolts and so on slowly oxidizing - she is 15 years old. My brother and I agree that part of the life on this boat is going to by going around with a wire wheel
and some good marine paint
on an ongoing basis. In fact when affecting the steering repairs
i ended up wire wheeling a whole bunch of small areas around the back porch and when we finished dolopped (technical word) white marine paint
on all the areas that were wire brushed. We also bought the magic mixture of chemical (brain fart on the name) that inhibits and kills rust.
In regards to "big issues" with the hull here is my gut. I may get flamed for this one...
- if you buy ferro be ultra cautious in a home built hull. There are probably expert home bulders and the guy who actually got one finished in contrast to all started and not finished is probably a dedicated builder
, but more than likely he only built one and you never know if he did it right. Not to say that a yard cant make mistakes
, just the likelihood is lower. We confrimed Ann was laid up in a professional yard experienced in ferro.
- if the boat is less than 10 years old (swag) it could have developing problem that have not surfaced yet. I would be more and more comfortable about a ferro hull between 10 and say 25 years old.
- I don't know if traditional water/moisture measuring devices work when evaluating ferro hulls. If a "high" reading were detected what would that mean and what to do about it?
- i think ultrasonic and hammer tapping might be legitimate tools to evaluate the hull as well. If a bit of the hull is hit with a hammer and it falls out, generally I think that would be a bad thing - Duh...
- There are lots of opinions on how to repair ferro. I wont give mine as I am too inexperienced yet. I do know that Ann has had "minor" wharf damage repaired - i.e. scrapes on the hull. I was told how it was repaired and it seems reasonable to me and probably the method I would recommend and choose.
- how to repair a hull penetration - i.e. a reef hitting accident
- is an interesting metal exercise but I see Ann with her tank like construction and slow speed as being able to win against the reef or anybody in her weight class. If it ever happens and the boat is not lost
we will cross that bridge.
So long post about a simple thing - what about rust? Me? Grind it treat it and paint it continuously just like a steel boat unless it pops up in some random place in the hull not related to a fixture, penetration or something attached to the boat.