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Old 08-01-2013, 20:28   #76
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Re: Feedback on Ferro Cement Hulls

my rules when repairng ferro are:
If the corrosion effects only a couple of layers of mesh, I repair with dynel and epoxy, saturating the cement first with undiluted epoxy before applying the dynel in increasing patches which ends by covering several inches of good membrane.

If a hole or area of corrosion that goes all the way or past the horizontal bars is needing repair, I knock out until I reach good mesh, expose this until an inch or two of good mesh is exposed, using pliers to crush the cement locking the layers together. I once had a pair of offset pliers perfect for this. If the rods are badly rusted, get rid of those and tie in new ones. Using new mesh, interweave it between the layers of good mesh and tie around the rods at 2" centers.

From there you can fill the void with a cement/sand mixture 1:2 using something like Bondcrete around the edges. Or an epoxy grout. Note Epoxy expands at a different rate than concrete, and as such, is not recommended, but I have used it successfully in many places. Often I then put a layer or two of dynel over the lot, running it past the repair by several inches.

More often than not, ferro rots from the inside like steel. Where seawater sits on both sides, like top of ballast, behind a frame under a leaky hatch, a wet chain locker. On Banyandah, during her refit after a 100,000 miles, inside we epoxied and sheathed with cloth up to slightly above the waterline.

There are plenty of photos of that rebuild on our website.

Hope that helps,
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Old 09-01-2013, 15:16   #77
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Re: Feedback on Ferro Cement Hulls

Quote:
Originally Posted by banyandah View Post
my rules when repairng ferro are:
If the corrosion effects only a couple of layers of mesh, I repair with dynel and epoxy, saturating the cement first with undiluted epoxy before applying the dynel in increasing patches which ends by covering several inches of good membrane.

If a hole or area of corrosion that goes all the way or past the horizontal bars is needing repair, I knock out until I reach good mesh, expose this until an inch or two of good mesh is exposed, using pliers to crush the cement locking the layers together. I once had a pair of offset pliers perfect for this. If the rods are badly rusted, get rid of those and tie in new ones. Using new mesh, interweave it between the layers of good mesh and tie around the rods at 2" centers.

From there you can fill the void with a cement/sand mixture 1:2 using something like Bondcrete around the edges. Or an epoxy grout. Note Epoxy expands at a different rate than concrete, and as such, is not recommended, but I have used it successfully in many places. Often I then put a layer or two of dynel over the lot, running it past the repair by several inches.

More often than not, ferro rots from the inside like steel. Where seawater sits on both sides, like top of ballast, behind a frame under a leaky hatch, a wet chain locker. On Banyandah, during her refit after a 100,000 miles, inside we epoxied and sheathed with cloth up to slightly above the waterline.

There are plenty of photos of that rebuild on our website.

Hope that helps,
Thanks for all the info Banyandah, Great website ! We love our Ferro Boat, so comfortable and stays warm (important up here in the wet northwest) I'm looking forward to making some lasting repairs.As you can see from the recent photos the bulwarks have a vertical section of teak with the teak caprail fastened to it .Since we only have one major section of the exterior (1 meter) that has spalled I am thinking to just dig in there from outside and cut out the offending rust rather than removing caprail . cheers Stonefloat
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Old 09-01-2013, 15:36   #78
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Re: Feedback on Ferro Cement Hulls

Yeah, see what you mean.
You'll know more once you start digging, hopefully fixing that metre will fix the problem.
if you like, send me a PM as you progress.
Cheers from Tasmania
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Old 10-01-2013, 19:56   #79
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Re: Feedback on Ferro Cement Hulls

G'day Jack,

I read your post on Ketch v cutter at: The Death of the Ketch ?
Just how difficult would it be to remove the mizzen on a centre cockpit 45' FC ketch and waterproof the hole where the mizzen had been and, would the main mast/sail need to be altered in any way?
On the FC ketch I'm considering I would like to add a solid dodger/wheelhouse to the cockpit and that would be easier if the boat was a cutter.

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Old 10-01-2013, 20:19   #80
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Re: Feedback on Ferro Cement Hulls

Hi Bill,

Just replied on other thread.
Maybe post a photo or two of your vessel
Cheers from Tasmania

The Death of the Ketch ?
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Old 11-01-2013, 14:40   #81
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Re: Feedback on Ferro Cement Hulls

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Hi Bill,

Just replied on other thread.
Maybe post a photo or two of your vessel
Cheers from Tasmania

The Death of the Ketch ?
G'day Jack,


I have not as yet made any offers on the Ketch, it's in the States. When I first contacted the broker, he sent me the original build certificate and informed me, Quote: the pics are from last year, the ketch needs carpet replaced, seal port holes, hook a few thing up and safety gear. End Quote. Not very much info' I know but better than nothing. I'll PM you the build certificate.


Cheers,


Bill
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Old 11-01-2013, 15:45   #82
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Re: Feedback on Ferro Cement Hulls

BillAU,
I know that you know that it will cost a lot of time and money to get a boat from there to here.

Are you aware old Moonstone is on ebay? It was listed at the brokers for $16k from memorex and is at 10K on auction now. It isn't as pretty but geez you could do a lot of fitting out to suit yourself for $10K. Admittedly it is a bit shorter.

The fresh prince has been dropped to sub 100 now also, thats if a 60footer suits you.

And yeah, I am not against looking at ferros also. Bit like an old house, car, bridge etc, if it still works well and looks good after 20-30 yrs then chances are it has been built and maybe looked after and will probably outlive me unless I can destroy it.

If you head up to mackay, townsville etc to have a look at any give me a hooler and I might come for a drive myself and check some things out. If ya want that is.

Cheers
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Old 11-01-2013, 16:57   #83
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Re: Feedback on Ferro Cement Hulls

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BillAU,
I know that you know that it will cost a lot of time and money to get a boat from there to here.
That's for sure but what a beaut trip and after buying and geting the boat into Oz, the boat will still cost less than a similar boat here in Oz.
Quote:
Are you aware old Moonstone is on ebay? It was listed at the brokers for $16k from memorex and is at 10K on auction now. It isn't as pretty but geez you could do a lot of fitting out to suit yourself for $10K. Admittedly it is a bit shorter.
Yes mate, I did see that but I've no interest in "that" Moonstone.
Quote:
The fresh prince has been dropped to sub 100 now also, thats if a 60footer suits you.
The only 50 - 60'ers I would be interested in would be straight-out power cruisers...Like a 50' Timber Planked Defever Trawler. I'm guessing I would need a 50'+ power cruiser to carry enough diesel to cross the big pond
At 70, I think I'm now physically to feeble to manage a 50'+ sailboat.
Quote:
And yeah, I am not against looking at ferros also. Bit like an old house, car, bridge etc, if it still works well and looks good after 20-30 yrs then chances are it has been built and maybe looked after and will probably outlive me unless I can destroy it.
I hear you mate
Quote:
If you head up to mackay, townsville etc to have a look at any give me a hooler and I might come for a drive myself and check some things out. If ya want that is.
I'm hoping to get up Bundy way sometime early this year...Illness at home has me tied to home at present...Mackay and Townsville is not far above Bundy, so I would give you a Hoi!

Cheers,

Bill
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Old 11-01-2013, 18:02   #84
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Argos boats online.com.au it might interest someone
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Old 11-01-2013, 18:28   #85
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Re: Feedback on Ferro Cement Hulls

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For sale
Argos boats online.com.au it might interest someone
Interesting But leave me out...I don't have the spare AU $3,000,000 to buy one of their second hand boats...No matter how neat I think they are...It's back to Ferro Cement for me
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Old 11-01-2013, 19:03   #86
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Re: Feedback on Ferro Cement Hulls

G'Day, BillAU... was it you that expressed an interest in a wooden hull trawler around 50 feet that was ocean capable? I used to own a DeFever 54 that would make it from San Diego to Hawaii on the 1800 US gal tankage but I would add a 500 US gal bladder for insurance to make sure I didn't run dry. Fuel was available between Hawaii and OZ with in the 1800 US gal range. PM if you want details... cheers, Phil
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Old 11-01-2013, 22:41   #87
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135,000.00 au that's a lot of boat, if it was steel or fiberglass it would be up around the 250,000.00 au
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Old 05-03-2013, 03:53   #88
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Re: Feedback on Ferro Cement Hulls

G'day mates,


This is a question for those experienced in FC boats.
I was wondering if boats built “fully” in FC are any more dangerous, prone to roll over, than FC hull only boats. i.e. with full FC boats the hull, deck and cabin/cabin tops are built with FC.
A number of local owner builders of FC boats have told me...If I were to build her again, I would build the lot in FC.


I look forward to your views.


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Old 05-03-2013, 16:26   #89
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Re: Feedback on Ferro Cement Hulls

The good ship Banyandah is ferro flush deck with a ply dog house. When we added the aft cabin house a few years back, we used fibreglas foam sandwich construction to keep the weight down. Ferro is heavy stuff, take my word, I've cut chunks out of my deck for hatches and the aft house. So any extra weight high up will seriouslty effect your ballast to weight ratio and will make the vessel more tender.

That said, stiffness is also a result of design. Flat bottom, beamy will be stiffer than narrow and slack.

Summing up, I love the monocoon design of hull and flush deck, but anything above that I would be weight conscious

Check out our website under Banyandah and look at the photos of her rebuild that show us cutting away a chunk of deck.

Hope that helps.
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Old 12-06-2013, 22:35   #90
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Re: Feedback on Ferro Cement Hulls

Friend of mine holed his Cotton 35 on a rock in Canada in the 80's and they hauled his tidally flooded boat out in Bela Bela on the railway where he removed everything but the engine out and dried thoroghly in the hotel's boiler-room. Two days later he had pounded the armature out back into shape, removed the broken bits of concrete from the 2x2 hole, wired in new mesh, mixed up the ready mix he was given by the electric company lineman, plastered the hole, put all their possesions back aboard, launched and sailed away end of story. I saw the boat 20 years later and it had no problems at all from this experience. Only lost 1 light fixture to the accident. Boat's name is DARK STAR fyi.
Try repairing anything else that quick and permanent.
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