David - Do you know where she is? Access to a Marina? Is it on the hard
now? What location - current
atmospheric conditions make a huge difference.
My company specializes in disaster recovery for data centers and flood is one of the top two (fire is #2) causes of outages after human error/sabotage.
The side effect of Katrina is the ability to recover from serious flooding has made leaps in the past couple of years. A specialty flood recovery company can help her now - but be careful as there are fly by nights and a boat is not a house on the water. If they don't know that - be very careful.
Triage is the key - not favorites or sentimental value - dollars. The sentimental photo
from 1968 of you and your grandfather on Everest can be recovered a week from now. The engine is dying by the minute. Focus on the engine and electronics. First, shut off the main circuit if it is on. "Warming equipment" is a misnomer - at least at this phase.
If you are unable to work on the engine - call the pros. Let them pull it if need be but don't let anyone start it. Even if it is "just to see if it will"
Air is now the enemy.
Strangely, while most electronics are not covered for flood loss, the majority have a natural coating as part of the assembly process that gives you more time than 20 years ago.
For those of you old enough this is going to sound like a shopping
list from MacGyver...
1. 5 gallon buckets - at least four
2. 100 lbs of uncooked rice
3. 2 gallons of rubbing alcohol - 91% or better. If you need to - ask the pharmacist.
4. Lawn size garbage bags (35 gal?)
5. Paper towels - lots of them as this is not going to be a "Green day"
6. A wet/dry vacuum 5 gal is enough. Bigger will just get in the way.
7. Beg/Borrow and buy as many dehumidifiers as you can. (well- 4 is probably the limit on your boat size) - the best ones will drain via hose but you have no bilge pump
8 Duct tape (because every disaster is cured using duct tape)
You cannot dry everything at once, so you are trying to buy yourself time.
- Pull all the electronics and put them into towels - wipe off exterior moisture.
- Pour the alcohol into the bucket and do the illogical - put in the component. You are unlikely to get the alcohol into all the nooks and crannies that 6 hours did, but the you only need to give it a 30 seconds and swirl it a little.
- Pull it out and wipe it off with a paper towel. If you feel moisture on the towel, keep at it with a clean paper towel. [side note: One of the guys here had good luck "vacuuming parts
." If you try that make it quick and move on - but no moisture should be felt when you are done]
- Pour about two inches of rice into a dry bucket put your electronic item in, open any door or compartment EXCEPT disk drives. Then 2 more inches. repeat until done.
- When the bucket is full, put it into a garbage bag, use a vacuum to suck out the air and tape it shut.
- Keep it shut for a day or so. When you pull things out, vacuum to remove the rice.
All you did was buy time, the alcohol will displace water, and the rice will be absorbing moisture. There are moisture displacing sprays (we have radio
shack here that can help, but YMMV depending on your location. As pointed out earlier WD40 is NOT the right option here.)
Next - everything that can/did absorb water that is not impossible to remove must get off the boat. Beyond pads and the headliner
, the towels in the drawer, the toilet paper roll, pads, etc. You want to strip the boat down to the wood, fiberglass
and metal. The only thing left that can hold water should have been a tree in a former life.
Bring in the dehumidifiers - set them on high and plan to check them very couple of hours until you see the fill rate. Empty them, repeat. If it is a high humidity environment
outside, you will want to close up the boat. YES - it is counter intuitive, but it is necessary to prevent the dehumidifiers from attempting to dry the atmosphere first.
Depending on weather
, you may need to adjust accordingly. If you are in a low humidity or cooler air environment
, large warming fans may be better. For example: Blue Blower BB PB2500 Commercial Grade Fan, 3 Speed - 2500 CFM | Blowers and Shop Heaters
Large volumes of hot air. HOT low humidity fast moving Air is best. Electric
heat is a low humidity heat.
The stuff you threw outside is going to be your next project
. Everything is different so it depends on what it is and how much you are willing to spend to save it. The pad, will be a buy new. The picture of you on Everest - that is a sentimental choice.
Until your boat is dry it is a toxic environment. Spend as little time inside as possible. While it is drying it is off gassing, oil from the engine may be on surfaces, diesel
and the holding tank
probably leaked as well so bacteria may spike. Mold
should be under control as it has only been a day, but you will need to watch.
There are far more scientific methods to accomplish this task with likely better results. Unfortunately, you are not going to be able to buy argon gas or 100 lbs of silica gel. But that is OK. You can do something.
Once it is drying, you need to consider what is next. You have oil to clean up, the water lines are compromised, the gas lines need to be checked, etc. All of that can be done over time - which is all you are trying to buy in the first 72 hours.