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w1651 · 28-03-2011, 20:25

Quote:

Our engine MD7. What's yours?

I have a MD2B Volvo Penta. I wonder what the difference between a MD2B and a MD2BH1 is. Anyway like I said before everyone I have talked to said it is a great engine.

barnakiel · 29-03-2011, 06:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by w1651

I have a MD2B Volvo Penta. I wonder what the difference between a MD2B and a MD2BH1 is. Anyway like I said before everyone I have talked to said it is a great engine.

I think here:
http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/MD...B_Workshop.pdf

you have the workshop manual for MD2B, unless you already have one.

I have googled the H1 and got nothing - have a close look at engine's plate or at any docs you got with the boat (Volvo attached a small booklet with each engine). Perhaps the H1 stands for something unrelated to Volvo per se.

In any case, asking Volvo (Volvo Geteborg) directly will explain everything.

Here:
Volvo Penta Diesel Engines - MarinePartsEurope.com

you can get the parts that you will have to replace after you have the engine apart and know what needs replacement. It is interactive, so just find your model then click on the required part and you will know if it is still available from VP.

I agree with many old VP good engines. The limit is spare parts availability. E.g. you cannot get the older blocks anymore.

barnie

w1651 · 29-03-2011, 11:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by barnakiel

I think here:
http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/MD...B_Workshop.pdf

you have the workshop manual for MD2B, unless you already have one.

I have googled the H1 and got nothing - have a close look at engine's plate or at any docs you got with the boat (Volvo attached a small booklet with each engine). Perhaps the H1 stands for something unrelated to Volvo per se.

In any case, asking Volvo (Volvo Geteborg) directly will explain everything.

Here:
Volvo Penta Diesel Engines - MarinePartsEurope.com

you can get the parts that you will have to replace after you have the engine apart and know what needs replacement. It is interactive, so just find your model then click on the required part and you will know if it is still available from VP.

I agree with many old VP good engines. The limit is spare parts availability. E.g. you cannot get the older blocks anymore.

barnie

Thanks for the link Barnie. I downloaded the manual and I have another printed coming in the mail.
Your right spare parts are hard to find these days.Someone told me they don't even make the cylinder sleeves anymore.
I have a machine shop that has done all my engine work for years now so I think they can at least match parts up.If not he can make something work.

barnakiel · 29-03-2011, 19:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by w1651

(...)
Someone told me they don't even make the cylinder sleeves anymore.
(...)

You are lucky to have the liners in the first place! We have none ...

;-)
b.

w1651 · 02-04-2011, 08:13

I went to the boat last night and took the front pulley off so as to get to the front crank bolt. The engine is still locked up tight after sitting with diesel fuel in the cylinders all week. I am going to clean out the diesel and use another parts cleaner with a few table spoons of muriatic acid mixed in to really get the corrosion off the cylinder walls and pistons.
I am also replacing the halyards today and all the running rigging. Then she should only need to clean the rudder to get her to sail.

I have to find a good Plastic scraper for the hull. Any suggestions out there?

Mark1977 · 02-04-2011, 08:46

Damn W1651 that's allot more boat than i thought you got. You got a great deal. I have the same motor in my boat. If you need any info on it let me know.

w1651 · 03-04-2011, 11:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark1977

Damn W1651 that's allot more boat than i thought you got. You got a great deal. I have the same motor in my boat. If you need any info on it let me know.

Thanks Mark

I did walk into a great deal on a great boat. Next year I want to put her on the hard and scrape, clean, rebed and even regel coat the sides,deck and hull. But I have lot of work to do first.
I have a downloaded shop manual and I ordered a shop manual for it. Right now I gotta get this engine unlocked or I'll be removing it for something else.

barnakiel · 03-04-2011, 18:48

You will not re-gelcoat as this process cannot be reversed - the gelco goes into the mould first - when the boat is build. You will have to read up as I am not big on this part of boat maintenance although not a dork either.

If the gelco is poor condition then I think above waterline it will be a painting job (probably a two part polyurethane paint, if you want a hard / UV resistant finish). Below the waterline, depending on gelco condition, you can either remove the gelco and apply multi-layered epoxy barrier or, if there are no pox bubbles, you will just apply some fresh primer and antifoul on top.

You might have no pox there as this is a Dutch boatyard build, I guess.

b.

w1651 · 10-04-2011, 07:30

Thanks Barnakiel

I got my shop manual for the MD2B the other day. What a great feeling that was and I couldn't wait to get to the boat and pull the motor apart.

So I get to the boat the other day and dropped a ratchet overboard (so much for engine work today) so I just used the scraper and cleaned the bottom a little.
Yesterday I was working on the engine trying to pull the side plate so I could unbolt the connecting rods so I can pull the pistons still stuck in the engine sleeves.
I took the starter generator off the engine to have it rebuilt if I can then the leak started. I have the galley sink drain running along the starboard side of the engine compartment to a thru-Hull that goes out the bottom of the stern. I looked, and the neck of the thru-hull valve cracked and was leaking. I looked even closer then it really started leaking. So here I am trying to stop this leak and the thru-hull valve is stuck open so I have to tap the valve just to get it to start to turn. Luckily it did close and come to a slight trickle or drip.
But in the meantime the bilge pump was on and draining the bilge which I thought it was supposed to do.
Well my neighbor on the hook one boat over thought I had dropped sewage from my tank in the harbor. So he stops a tow boat and calls the Coast Guard.
I hear the commotion go up top and he ranting and raving how I dropped sewage and that he cannot believe I would do that and I'm telling him I don't even have a working head or a tank. I look and there is a brown patch that is floating towards the harbor from my bilge I guess.

Anyway! The coast guard shows up and I show them the valve the crack explain what happened and they were actually pretty good about it. Still I got boarded and wrote up because there was a complaint and they have a job to do. And I told them I didn't know what was in the bilge I had a decision to make and I chose save the boat over turn off the bilge.
They tell me that more then likely nothing will happen. The paperwork goes to Miami and reviewed but they will probably just put it in a file and there will be no fine but you never know.
Long story short I am going to have a outboard installed on the boat and move it to the hard. I cannot even trust the thru-hulls on this boat. I am going to try to get rid of one or two of them and replace all the others. I was trying to put this off but now it's a safety issue and I will let the motor be for now and pull it completely out when on the hard.
Once I get the motor rebuilt I can take the outboard off and close the holes. Paint it over and you will not even see that it had an outboard attached. Or I could leave the mounting bracket just in case.

What a Day !

w1651 · 12-04-2011, 16:33

Anyone ever used the new Mylar sea cocks? I was looking and saw that they now make plastic sea cocks. What do you think?

w1651 · 16-05-2011, 18:56

Just an update.
I am in the process of getting the old girl off the hook and into a slip. I need a dock to pull the motor and replace the sea cocks on board. Not to mention I want to spend a few nights aboard to fix a lot of little things and joinery at night and start on the Head.

I'll get pics here shortly.

w1651 · 24-05-2011, 18:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by w1651

Just an update.
I am in the process of getting the old girl off the hook and into a slip. I need a dock to pull the motor and replace the sea cocks on board. Not to mention I want to spend a few nights aboard to fix a lot of little things and joinery at night and start on the Head.

I'll get pics here shortly.

I went to the boat this weekend. Did a lot to her but mostly little things. Cleaned all the locks and latches then lubed them. Tightened all the hinges and need to add screws to some places.
Pulled the sole of the boat up and got a good look at the bilge while the boards are dry. tried to tighten the Sampson pole in the bow but the nuts are at the ends of the threads on the shank of the bolts. I gotta get new stainless bolts and a piece of stainless steel to help as a backing.
Still can't find a outboard for it but I am still searching.
Anyone know where to get weather stripping for the hatches so I can replace them?

w1651 · 05-08-2011, 20:18

Okay just trying to keep this thread alive and out of the back of the thread files.
I have been trying to get things done on board and started to work on the teak. Sorry this hasn't gone by quicker but it has been extremely hot and humid. Sanding the teak and washing the decks is like running a marathon.
I have decided to start with the wood because I think it makes the most bang for the buck.Then I will rebuild the companion way and the seating in the Cockpit. I am going to use teak oil or tongue oil on the teak and varnish the companionway slats. I will take pics and post them here.

Fair winds.

w1651 · 22-08-2011, 16:24

I've been fixing and varnishing the cockpit seating. Most of the blocking was wore out and had to be replaced but with a few drill bits and stainless screws I was able to reuse the old slats.Below are links to pics showing how I sanded and reblocked the slats.

I used varnish that was on the boat and previously used. I forget the name but it is sold at Ace Hardware though not Ace Spar Varnish but a cetol anyway. I will gert the name later off the can.

Wood for seats | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Fixing seat blocking | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
revarnished seat 1st coat | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Good luck and fair winds for now. I hope these blasted links work. Why they won't let you upload a photo from your machine I don't know. It would be a lot easier. You'll have to search back for the pics or you can see how bad the seacocks are corroded too.