Originally Posted by TheKurp
I have a 1973 Contest 31 (hull #48) that I'm currently restoring. At the moment it's on the hard
in Titusville, FL. Today I attempted to remove the bow cap and was unsuccessful. The reason for removing is twofold. One, I'm stripping off all the hardware
in preparation for painting. Two, I'd like to see if I can have it restored to somewhat resemble what yours now looks like. Am I correct in assuming that yours is new and not refurbished? Also, by what method were you able to wrest the cap away from the bow? I've tried brute force using a 2×4 and a 3lb sledge, as well as a heat gun. Yes, all bolts/screws are confirmed removed. I'm tempted to secure a chain to it with the other end attached to my truck. The only thing stopping me from trying that idea is the picture I have in my mind of pulling the boat off the jackstands. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Not specific to a Contest 31, but I have noticed that a removal
failure in anything is usually down to a missed fixing.
Of course the fixing related to a bow cap, might be a sealant
that also acts as an adhesive
I used to sell a lot of Low Modular Neutral Cure Solvent Free Silicone Sealer to roofers for doing emergency repairs
When it cured, this stuff was so strong, that any attempt to pull components apart would break both components. The only way to get such components apart to do a permanent repair (e.g. time to do a complete re-roof), was to cut the sealant
. Roofers usually used very old slate rippers that had worn really thin, and sharpened the ends and the hooks, so they could cut in both directions. As an insight, the service
life of this stuff could exceed 50 years.
So I'd use something thin, flexible, strong, and sharp, to get between the hull
and fitting, to be able to cut it (this would also find any so far unseen mechanical fixings in the process, if there are any).
I'd try a 12" and an 18" (start with the 12" and then the 18" should be long enough to manage the furthest from any edge) cheap
stainless metal rule
available off Ebay (should be under $10 inc delivery
for both, I bought a range of sizes a couple of months back). One end is rounded, with a hole to hang it up with - put a wooden handle on that end to give a good grip, with a bolt through the hole to secure the handle - then file or grind a sharp edge at the other end so you can use it as a chisel for cutting any sealant.
Do a thorough job of cutting all round, and no damage should be done to the GRP, and it should be quite fast to do.
PS. When cured this stuff stands heat quite well (hard to get enough heat into a big area of metal to affect it much as the metal is working to spread the heat and act as a heat sink). I know people that used to make their own 'O' ring head
gaskets for water
two stroke motorbikes out of it (e.g. Yamaha TZ's). It certainly works for making other 'O' rings as well.
PPS. If tempted to use it to make non critical gaskets that could be hard to get (or really stupidly priced) during an engine rebuild
, make sure you coat both faces to be sealed with something like petroleum jelly (Vaseline type stuff), then run a bead all around one face and let it cure (neutral cure solvent free may take a couple of days to set properly, due to the lack of a solvent), before joining the faces. Then you will be able to get them apart again.