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Old 01-01-2016, 18:44   #136
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Re: Conyplex Corporation Contest 33

Hi Wayne,

I have a 1973 Contest 31 (hull #48) that I'm currently restoring. At the moment it's on the hard in Titusville, FL. Today I attempted to remove the bow cap and was unsuccessful. The reason for removing is twofold. One, I'm stripping off all the hardware in preparation for painting. Two, I'd like to see if I can have it restored to somewhat resemble what yours now looks like. Am I correct in assuming that yours is new and not refurbished? Also, by what method were you able to wrest the cap away from the bow? I've tried brute force using a 24 and a 3lb sledge, as well as a heat gun. Yes, all bolts/screws are confirmed removed. I'm tempted to secure a chain to it with the other end attached to my truck. The only thing stopping me from trying that idea is the picture I have in my mind of pulling the boat off the jackstands. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-01-2016, 01:18   #137
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Re: Conyplex Corporation Contest 33

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Originally Posted by TheKurp View Post
Hi Wayne,

I have a 1973 Contest 31 (hull #48) that I'm currently restoring. At the moment it's on the hard in Titusville, FL. Today I attempted to remove the bow cap and was unsuccessful. The reason for removing is twofold. One, I'm stripping off all the hardware in preparation for painting. Two, I'd like to see if I can have it restored to somewhat resemble what yours now looks like. Am I correct in assuming that yours is new and not refurbished? Also, by what method were you able to wrest the cap away from the bow? I've tried brute force using a 24 and a 3lb sledge, as well as a heat gun. Yes, all bolts/screws are confirmed removed. I'm tempted to secure a chain to it with the other end attached to my truck. The only thing stopping me from trying that idea is the picture I have in my mind of pulling the boat off the jackstands. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Not specific to a Contest 31, but I have noticed that a removal failure in anything is usually down to a missed fixing.

Of course the fixing related to a bow cap, might be a sealant that also acts as an adhesive.

I used to sell a lot of Low Modular Neutral Cure Solvent Free Silicone Sealer to roofers for doing emergency repairs.

When it cured, this stuff was so strong, that any attempt to pull components apart would break both components. The only way to get such components apart to do a permanent repair (e.g. time to do a complete re-roof), was to cut the sealant. Roofers usually used very old slate rippers that had worn really thin, and sharpened the ends and the hooks, so they could cut in both directions. As an insight, the service life of this stuff could exceed 50 years.

So I'd use something thin, flexible, strong, and sharp, to get between the hull and fitting, to be able to cut it (this would also find any so far unseen mechanical fixings in the process, if there are any).

I'd try a 12" and an 18" (start with the 12" and then the 18" should be long enough to manage the furthest from any edge) cheap stainless metal rule available off Ebay (should be under $10 inc delivery for both, I bought a range of sizes a couple of months back). One end is rounded, with a hole to hang it up with - put a wooden handle on that end to give a good grip, with a bolt through the hole to secure the handle - then file or grind a sharp edge at the other end so you can use it as a chisel for cutting any sealant.

Do a thorough job of cutting all round, and no damage should be done to the GRP, and it should be quite fast to do.

Good luck.

PS. When cured this stuff stands heat quite well (hard to get enough heat into a big area of metal to affect it much as the metal is working to spread the heat and act as a heat sink). I know people that used to make their own 'O' ring head gaskets for water cooled racing two stroke motorbikes out of it (e.g. Yamaha TZ's). It certainly works for making other 'O' rings as well.

PPS. If tempted to use it to make non critical gaskets that could be hard to get (or really stupidly priced) during an engine rebuild, make sure you coat both faces to be sealed with something like petroleum jelly (Vaseline type stuff), then run a bead all around one face and let it cure (neutral cure solvent free may take a couple of days to set properly, due to the lack of a solvent), before joining the faces. Then you will be able to get them apart again.
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Old 02-01-2016, 06:09   #138
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Re: Conyplex Corporation Contest 33

I agree with Ribbit. If you have removed the three bolt across the top and the one bolt that goes directly through the point of the bow at the base of the cap. It is probably sealed and glued on. I had mine reworked and it looks great though I removed it to paint and fix some metal fatige as well. You can go back through this thread or use the link below to get some more info. Go here to see some of what I have done.

https://www.flickr.com/cameraroll I hope this helps.
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Old 03-01-2016, 06:17   #139
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Re: Conyplex Corporation Contest 33

Thanks Wayne and Ribbit, I'll see about getting a long blade. I already tried a thin piece of metal about 10 inches long and some material that looked like dried epoxy came out, but that didn't help with the issue.
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Old 03-01-2016, 16:06   #140
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Re: Conyplex Corporation Contest 33

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Originally Posted by TheKurp View Post
Thanks Wayne and Ribbit, I'll see about getting a long blade. I already tried a thin piece of metal about 10 inches long and some material that looked like dried epoxy came out, but that didn't help with the issue.
One last thing. Under the cap from the top down to the bolt that holds it at the bottom of the cap bolt through the hull is a shaft. That shafts channel is filled with epoxy or plumbers putty or something. I don't know what it was but it's a long piece of stainless atatched to the bottom of the cap. Mine was corroded so badly is just broke off. But it is bolted from the front of the bow a few inches up from the bottom of the cap through the front.
You can also see where they laid out the channel inside the anchor locker. I hope this helped.
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Old 04-01-2016, 08:16   #141
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Re: Conyplex Corporation Contest 33

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One last thing. Under the cap from the top down to the bolt that holds it at the bottom of the cap bolt through the hull is a shaft. That shafts channel is filled with epoxy or plumbers putty or something. I don't know what it was but it's a long piece of stainless atatched to the bottom of the cap. Mine was corroded so badly is just broke off. But it is bolted from the front of the bow a few inches up from the bottom of the cap through the front.
You can also see where they laid out the channel inside the anchor locker. I hope this helped.
I saw that you mentioned this in an earlier post and it puzzled me because I spent a good amount of time in the anchor locker holding nuts with a wrench while my friend unscrewed the bolts from the outside. I did not see the shaft you're speaking of. If it's there, then like you mentioned, it's buried under something and I'll have to cut it out. I'll look for it when I return to the yard this weekend.

On another note, I have flexing on my deck around the chainplates - especially on the port side. Inspecting from below, I see separation between the bulkheads and the underside of the deck. In other words, it appears that the bulkheads were tabbed to the underside of the deck and that tabbing has failed on both the starboard and port sides. In fact, not only were the bulkheads tabbed to the deck, but some of the vertical walls of the cabinets above the settees are also tabbed to the deck. In all cases, the tabbing is very thin and I removed much of the separated pieces with just my fingers.

As you might have discovered by now, the deck is not cored, but solid fiberglass. (I've read that there are stringers, but haven't found any yet). I'm wondering whether the tabbing was added by a previous owner to try and correct the flexing, or whether it's original from the factory. Do you see the same tabbing? Is it sound? My guess is the only way to correct the flexing is to remove the old tabbing and replace it with beefier tabbing. Much like what is described here: http://www.kp44.org/ftp/TabbingBulkh...l_and_Deck.pdf
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Old 01-06-2016, 08:38   #142
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Re: Conyplex Corporation Contest 33

I didn't have this problem. I did replace all the chain plates and had them made up by a local stainless guy. His address is here in this thread. I also use thicker backing plates and stainless plates to help out with the loads. Other then that my decks were fine but it does seem to be an issue with chain plate corroding at deck level and you will never see it. So do your do diligence there.

Embree welding 690 43rd St S, St Petersburg, FL 33711
(727) 321-8771
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Old 02-06-2016, 07:40   #143
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Re: Conyplex Corporation Contest 33

I've given up on the bow cap removal for now and instead, have turned my attention to the rub rails. I removed both port and starboard rails since there's evidence that the rivets are failing. In fact, there are areas where some previous owner(s) attempted a fix by driving large screws through the rail in through the hull. After removal, I spotted a fair amount of delamination along the deck to hull joint - I presume from water getting trapped between the rail and hull. So now I'm in the process of removing all the rivets, grinding out the bad spots, squeezing 5200 up into the shoe box joint, and then I'll finish off with epoxy, glass, and through bolts every 6 inches or so. This was definitely not on the list.
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Old 02-06-2016, 08:37   #144
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Re: Conyplex Corporation Contest 33

I feel your pain.
My rub rails are doing the same thing. I was going to just get a box of stainless lathe screws and drill a hole every six inches and reinstall it. then use the stainless strip covering the rivots to cover the new screw heads. Now after reading your last thread I think I will take a closer look too. I was hoping to replace the rivets in some areas but looking at them I have decided against it and am looking for the easiest way out of this situation. A few bolts through the joint is a good idea too if I can get away with it.
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Old 02-06-2016, 08:47   #145
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Re: Conyplex Corporation Contest 33

I would like to see the photos of the existing rr, the removed and exposed joint w/ rivets.

I would recommend you contact HLY / Conyplex or Dick Zaal and discuss the issue.

I have replaced entire RR on a late 80 36s for a yard... as a free lance project. We used teak sent by Conyplex... scarfed and then screwed... but not through bolted.

I believe the RR is "sacrificial" and not structural. My hunch is that in building the boat the deck to hull joint strength is relying on GRP over the joint on the inside. The RR is applied.... thru riveted and then glass over on the inside.

You might be able to screw into the rivets (difficult)... like an "anchor"... or seal the flattened rivits with epoxy and screw the RR in pre drilled holes.... every 6-8" or so w. SS screws. You can thru bolt... but you have created passage for water to enter the boat's interior... albeit slowly.
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Old 03-06-2016, 07:05   #146
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Re: Conyplex Corporation Contest 33

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I would like to see the photos of the existing rr, the removed and exposed joint w/ rivets.

I would recommend you contact HLY / Conyplex or Dick Zaal and discuss the issue.

I have replaced entire RR on a late 80 36s for a yard... as a free lance project. We used teak sent by Conyplex... scarfed and then screwed... but not through bolted.

I believe the RR is "sacrificial" and not structural. My hunch is that in building the boat the deck to hull joint strength is relying on GRP over the joint on the inside. The RR is applied.... thru riveted and then glass over on the inside.

You might be able to screw into the rivets (difficult)... like an "anchor"... or seal the flattened rivits with epoxy and screw the RR in pre drilled holes.... every 6-8" or so w. SS screws. You can thru bolt... but you have created passage for water to enter the boat's interior... albeit slowly.
Hi Sandero,

Below is a link to three images. One of the rub rail, one showing the delamination after the rub rail was removed, and the last one is of the joint after I grinded the bad fiberglass. http://www.snapfish.com/library/shar...34060/SNAPFISH
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Old 03-06-2016, 07:29   #147
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Re: Conyplex Corporation Contest 33

Below is a link to three images. One is of the rub rail before removal. One shows the delamination I discovered after removing the rub rail. And the third is the result after grinding away the bad fiberglass.

My Photos
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Old 03-06-2016, 11:58   #148
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Re: Conyplex Corporation Contest 33

Attached are three images. One with the rub rail attached. The second with the rub rail removed and the delamination exposed. And the third is after I grinded the bad spots down to good fiberglass.
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Old 03-06-2016, 13:54   #149
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Re: Conyplex Corporation Contest 33

The delamination is hard to see for me. Where exactly is it. I see the rivots holding the deck to the hull. They should go through and be fiber glassed over inside the boat. My rub rail is exactly like the one you took off. What are you replacing it with? I was just going to get 66 ft of white rubber with the black plastic insert and be done with it.
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Old 03-06-2016, 14:11   #150
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Re: Conyplex Corporation Contest 33

The rub rail profile need to have a "step" in the profile... obviously because the top (deck) is over the buttom (hull).

So just adding a flat "something" and bending it to the hull form will leave gaps at top or bottom or both. NO GOOD.

Conyplex can send you the rub rail profiled... or you can machine/mill them yourself.

I believe that screwing the new RR into the GRP which is quite thick is adequate. When I replaced my ports in the deck section... the lay up was 1/2" thick of so. I assume the hull thickness to be the same or more.

You could do one hole thru and measure the the thickness and then fill it and get the correct length screws to not penetrate the interior...Thru bolting is bit necessary and promotes leaks.

I have the unmilled teak for years but haven't gotten around to this project... it's a big one!

You'll want to apply a sealant under the new RR like butyl rubber...not 5200 or even 4200... screws will do fine.
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