Bamboo, I re-rigged 1 of these about 14 years ago...
they required a new mast
, however were without funds for same, so after severing the spar above the damage (corroded step...bad, for 12") & replacing the gap w/a teak
laminated built up & Epoxied routed for a seat "block" at the base along w/freshly (& highly improved both grounding And weep holes for proper drainage) set spar back in place & new standing rigging
...I can't speak to location of holding tank...it would probably be an aftermarket installation
as most of these were built prior the requirement of same per COLREGS.
bolts(& Nuts) are what they are...what did Your surveyor
note? Are there problems?
locker usage? Not sure of Your question? What do You think appropriate for quick/easy access in the cockpit?
HW Heater is usually located somewhere near the engine
& connected to the heat exchanger
Soft Decks, no problem..."Git Rot" & depending on the amount of area determines how much You're going to need, along with how many syringes for same. Available at all Your local boating
supplies stores. These boats, compliments of Columbia's selection of balsa for the deck core
are infamous for this malady. Just follow the directions & know it takes a while...the hotter & drier the better for application procedures. When done, they're stronger than original. (now completely "plastic" where the epoxy
has actually penetrated & replaced the fibers of the former core
, then hardened).
Adding referigeration? Seek out professionals, or check out adler-barbour & other suppliers on line. There ARE a few setups that come like Mobile home "package systems" & CAN be self installed if You're Very mechanically inclined (<buying a vessel of this age, demeanor & known problems tells me You must be).
Relocation of electrical
panel is challenging for the most experienced of us, extremely depending on distance between where now and desired...not for the feint of heart...given the funds, I'd call in an expert;
Palmer to Perkins
Swap...OMG, YES, DEFINITELY Call the pros & shop price
, this requires a new engine bed
, mounts, the engine of course, takes several days done right (glassing in new engine bed
PROPERLY, shimming engine properly, etc. is an ART learned from experience...NOT for the 1 time, "I'm gonna Yank this and Stuff that" type. You need professional help on this 1;
either a 4-107 or 4-108 (w/significant accessory loading...like that refrigeration
, HD Alternator
, etc.) is more than sufficient for moving these vessels at hull speed
...keep in mind trim Matters Also...the 4-108 out weighs the Palmer by almost 2x?!
? By Yourself? With a significant other? 3 kids
? 3 dogs
& 2 cats? More detail needed, although the 1st two options would be the "life of Ryan", more than 2 children
...you're getting in to some cramped quarters at the docks on rainy days...& dogs/cats don't ask for the car keys or college tuition.....
Cruising? Gr8 boats as coastal cruisers...They, in their prime were also decent ocean crossers, however this 1 is far past it's prime...I'd ask the surveyor
his opinion of EVERYTHING that would need repair/replacement before considering heading seriously "out there".
Congratulations on Your acquisition, they are nice boats, gr8 lines, keep an eye on that rudder
bearing, re-bed EVERYTHING Remotely close to, or "uphill, as in water
weeps Downward from those soft spots, get that GAS ENGINE out of the boat asap, and trust in a good surveyors advice. I wouldn't take on relocation of the Main Panel unless You simply Can't STAND it where presently located. It's a task under the best of circumstances. Check out the bottom of Your Mast
Foot for corrosion
. Let me know what You see...a historic problem for these specific vessels/design flaw that can be repaired relatively easily & cost effectively.