First things first, lift
up the deck plates and clean out the bilge
. Mop it dry until there is no water at all. This way you will be able to tell if the leaks
are below the waterline, ie keel bolts or rudder
tube. If the bilge
stays dry for a few days, that's a good sign that the leaks
are upwards. Could be toe rail bolts, chain plates if they go thru the deck, caulking between the ports
and the cabin
sides, and the gasketing in the ports
themselves. Just about anything that is bolted on deck may be subject to leakage as the caulking fails.
Check the water tank and lines. Fill the tank, with water and food
coloring. See where it leaks. You can always flush out the tank later. (good idea too, who knows what life forms are living in there now)
As for the spring on the foredeck, if its a general spring across the entire deck as you walk on it, that's OK. The heavier you are the more it will flex. But if you think you are getting soft spots only in certain areas, it may be core
How bad is the tiller? Varnish
gone, starting to split? You might be able to save it by sanding
it down, blowing all the dust out of the cracks, and painting the splits with epoxy
. Clamping it is a real treat, you need curved shims to put between the clamp jaws. Take a 2 inch piece of 2x4 and drill it end on with a hole saw of the diameter of the tiller at the point you want to put the shim. You will need to drill it from both ends. Put wax paper between the shims and the tiller, then clamp away. Use pieces of rope
in a loop around the tiller shims with a toggle to twist them tight. (Spanish windlass). Saves lots of money
on clamps that way. Or just keep filling, and sanding
until the cracks are filled. My Grampian
tiller was a real mess but that fixed it pretty good. For general repairs, you'd be surprised what you can do with a quart or so of 2 part epoxy
While you have the tiller off being repaired, check the fit between the tiller fitting and the rudder head
for slop. If the hole for the bolt is elongated, you may be able to drill it for the next bolt size but be careful to leave lots of meat on the parts
I'm assuming the electrics don't work because the battery
is toast so buy your battery first. Buy a cheap
digital multimeter if you don't have one. Check all the fuses
, and fuse holders with the meter set for resistance. Clean the fuse holder with a bit of sand paper for good connectivity. Check the wiring
from the battery + connector all the way through the fuses
and switches. Zero or next to zero on the meter is good. High reading indicates a problem, perhaps a nick or partial cut in the wire. Huge numbers indicate an open (circuit is cut) and you will have to find it and repair. Some meters have setting where they beep if the circuit is good. Then hook the battery up and check the existing electrical system
. Check each light and light fitting with the meter, and clean with a bit of sand paper if you get bad readings, then check again.
Get yourself a chunk of #14 wire about 12-15 feet long, and put alligator clips on either end. (Get these at Radio
Shack, get the ones with rubber boots on them) This way you can isolate problems to a length of circuit or bypass a switch or light fixture. You may need to bypass a bad section of wire so be ready for that as well. You will want that electrical system
up before you move the boat 30 miles to its new home.
While the bottom is being done, check the rudder for rust stains and cracks. Check the play in the rudder tube by moving the rudder side to side and fore and aft. How many years has she been sitting on that mooring
? Check for osmosis
. If its there, repairing it before repainting will add expense now, but save it later when you don't need to haul out
again to deal with it.
That's about all I can think of right now that can be done fairly cheaply. Putting in that plywood cross over under the mast is a good idea too.