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Old 20-11-2010, 16:53   #16
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While staying in the boat you MUST have ventilation. Therefore heathers must be present. If the boat IS inhabitated for a period you might consider "sealing" it and use a strong deumidifier inside. - such as calcium oxide, wich is also cheap. You might consider monthly refills. The use of highly hygroscopic compounds will make only well, if properly sealed from new humide moisture. If the case is, you will consider complete emptying of water sistems - to avoid freezing. All inside must be opened to favorize uniform absorbtion of the moisture, but ONLY IF YOU DON'LIVE ABOARD.
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Old 20-11-2010, 17:06   #17
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There is also a set of heathers - probane, gasoline or diesel , such as Webasto or Eberspaecher, wich i use in my diesel, BUT DO BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL , if wrong installed you can catch a fire or worse you can get poisoned with carbon monoxide. in any case recirculation pumps and heat dispensers are required. The mine is 3.5 kw - thermal, eats 0.4 liters / hr and .4 Amps. The pump also gets.15 Amps. Hope it helps.
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Old 20-11-2010, 17:59   #18
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as you arent gonna be on board--might wanna winterize then unwiterize whenye get back-- just for safety-----????? is spozed to be colder this winter and wetter than normal. be safe.
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Old 22-11-2010, 23:26   #19
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A good thread to read on this snowy night here in the PNW. I too sail year round and this is my first winter with my current boat. It has an Atomic 4 and is in very good shape. I checked everything tonight before the big snow, and it's dry with a small boat heater inside (turned on), however - I could use some advice on when and how I should fire up the engine. How long should I wait before I run it? What are the cold weather rules for starting a gas engine? In advance, I appreciate all advice.

Thank you.
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