Chainplates from grainger

[Cheechako]

Yeah, in reality I think a failed chainplate is pretty rare. But it only takes one to ruin your day! Crevice corrosion will not necessarily show as rust. But you could have those inspected then reuse maybe. To my way of thinking the polish job is even more important than if they are 316 or 304.
Look in your area for a railmaking shop (pulpits etc) They can electropolish your old or new ones for you.
I'm trying to remember what that symbol means... not sure maybe Shaeffer. I wonder if they were already replaced? The ones bolted to the outside of your stern are even less likely to have corrosion unless they are not caulked between the hull and plate.

[VinnyVincent]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Yeah, in reality I think a failed chainplate is pretty rare. But it only takes one to ruin your day! Crevice corrosion will not necessarily show as rust. But you could have those inspected then reuse maybe. To my way of thinking the polish job is even more important than if they are 316 or 304.
Look in your area for a railmaking shop (pulpits etc) They can electropolish your old or new ones for you.
I'm trying to remember what that symbol means... not sure maybe Shaeffer. I wonder if they were already replaced? The ones bolted to the outside of your stern are even less likely to have corrosion unless they are not caulked between the hull and plate.

It is a schaeffer logo. Good guess



All the blocks on my whole boat are also schaeffer, so perhaps it is original to the boat.(there's one harken, but it looks like an upgrade)...however there's other hardware that says "N" on it which is the symbol for Newport.

I think since I have come this far i will make new ones and look into electropolishing.
I went ahead and ordered online after calling/emailing about 10 different local steel places with no return calls, none in stock, or no sales to the general public.

[VinnyVincent]

Electropolishing sounded good until I got some quotes and GOOD GOD
135.00 for two 20" pieces!? That puts the material cost at almost 200 dollars. I could have gotten titanium at that price.

[Cheechako]

Yeah, that's a bit ridiculous. Obviously they don't want outside work!

[rgesner]

Originally Posted by VinnyVincent

Electropolishing sounded good until I got some quotes and GOOD GOD
135.00 for two 20" pieces!? That puts the material cost at almost 200 dollars. I could have gotten titanium at that price.

Shop around, I got a local quote in Portland of $85 (their min shop charge) for four 18"L pieces.

- Rusty

[rgesner]

Originally Posted by VinnyVincent

I'm having trouble finding 3/16"X2" bronze flat bar for sale anywhere online. I can get 1/4" all over the place, but not 3/16".

I can't find 1/4" and 3/8" in 2" or 2-1/2" bar stock, only sheet stock, but if they shear the sheet it tends to twist a bit. I could buy a larger remnant and waterjet cut it (I can get that done for free) but the only remnants I can find are too large for that to be economical.

Guess I'll go with 316 SS since the local electropolish quote I got was only $85.

[Stumble]

Like I said, titanium is amazingly price competitive once you add up all the associated costs.

[VinnyVincent]

Originally Posted by rgesner

I can't find 1/4" and 3/8" in 2" or 2-1/2" bar stock, only sheet stock,

Guess I'll go with 316 SS since the local electropolish quote I got was only $85.

https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchan...=2&top_cat=850

They have your sizes in stock in bronze. Prices were very competitive as well, even when comparing shipping with local sources.
My stainless will arrive today so super fast shipping.
I am probably going to skip electropolishing and just do it myself with a dremel kit.

OH I ALMOST FORGOT!...enter "save20" at the checkout for 20% off

[VinnyVincent]

Originally Posted by Stumble

Like I said, titanium is amazingly price competitive once you add up all the associated costs.

I looked into it, but I had issues finding the sizes I need, more so than with the bronze.

I could have went for 1/8", but I was afraid it would put too much concentrated load on one area of the pin.
Then there was cutting it from plate...$$$$
Then there was my size, but in class 5...$$$$

In the end I went with the "original piece lasted 38 years and looks good, so I will replace it with that" logic.
Funny thing is, the piece I removed has a satin finish and even has mill marks on the edges. It appears to have had very minimal polishing done. I will post up pics later.

[Lojanica]

Originally Posted by Stumble

Like I said, titanium is amazingly price competitive once you add up all the associated costs.

What he said. Titanium is the best!!!

Once you add up the costs it is comparable but superior

[VinnyVincent]

Originally Posted by rgesner

Guess I'll go with 316 SS since the local electropolish quote I got was only $85.

If they have your size in bronze, it's pretty much a wash as far as price goes.

It breaks down like this:

Stainless: 1/4" X 2" X 48" piece= 50 dollars shipped. hardware is about another 40-50, let's just say 50. Polishing is 30 for a kit to DIY, or 85 to electro polish. let's say 85.
Using those numbers, stainless = 185

Aluminum Bronze: 1/4" X 2" X 48" piece= 96 dollars shipped. Hardware I saw was all silicon bronze and totaled out to 112 dollars.
Using those numbers, bronze =208

I didn't bother pricing out titanium hardware, because I couldn't find anything close to the size I needed.

[VinnyVincent]

Pop quiz:

My original nuts were acorn cap nuts.
My options are:
pay 3 dollars a piece for 316 cap nuts
pay 34 cents for 304 cap nuts
pay 50 cents each for 316ss regular nuts and use crush washers(ugly, but get's the job done)

What would you do?

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by VinnyVincent

...I am probably going to skip electropolishing and just do it myself with a dremel kit...

I doubt that will do the job.

[rgesner]

Originally Posted by VinnyVincent

I am probably going to skip electropolishing and just do it myself with a dremel kit.

That would be a mistake, electropolishing is more than just making it pretty.
Electropolishing removes the outer skin of metal along with the imbedded contaminants. Passivation only removes the free iron and surface contaminants. When the outer skin is dissolved, not only are the imbedded contaminants removed but the surface becomes smoother eliminating defects where bacteria can harbor and corrosion can initiate. The end result is the electropolished part is 30 times more corrosion resistant when subjected to salt spray testing.

[VinnyVincent]

Well then, it looks like I made a huge mistake purchasing stainless steel. The best price I've found is 100 dollars, not including shipping. I could've got bronze cheaper and probably titanium too.
Oh and a 3-5 day working time AFTER they receive the parts?

How is it that the old one lasted 38 years without having this done? The old one doesn't even look like they did a thorough wheel polishing.

How long has this process been around? Do they use electro polishing on all marine hardware?