Caulk for Teak

[downwinder]

Hi. Im reviving my teak decks and would like to see what recommendations and/or advice in regards to the type of caulk that should be used for in between the teak boards. Cheers.

[patr1707]

I used Maritime Teak Deck Caulk, http://www.maritimewoodproducts.com/...deckcaulk.html

So far so good. Worked amd cured great. Seems very durable.

I tried the LifeCaulk Teak stuff and found it wouldn't cure and will never buy it again. Others have had bad reviews of it too.

Good luck

[belizesailor]

Also consider: http://www.teakdecking.com/. Good stuff.

[LakeSuperior]

Be sure to lay bond breaker tape in the bottom of the channel. This action will make your caulk job last considerably longer as it puts the polymer in a 1-D stress configuration rather than 2-D. Without the bond breaker the corners peel away from the teak much sooner.

[sestina]

Sikaflex 290. It's the dogs's danglies. You must use the horribly expensive Sika cleaner and primer for the best results.

My decks didn't have breaker tape and they lasted 26 years until I decided to remove the teak and replace with paint.

[Terra Nova]

Either the Maritime or Teak Decking Systems caulk will do a fine job. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

[LakeSuperior]

Originally Posted by sestina

Sikaflex 290. It's the dogs's danglies. You must use the horribly expensive Sika cleaner and primer for the best results.

My decks didn't have breaker tape and they lasted 26 years until I decided to remove the teak and replace with paint.

So then why did you decide to remove the teak with the teak being nearly maintenance free and the paint on the deck needing work every couple years? Plus teak is by far the best no-skid on the planet.

[appick]

After spending much money and a few summers with various kinds of polysulfide caulks on a Formosa 34 I'd bought for what I thought was a steal. I should've taken the advice that was offered at the time by people whom I thought were crazy. They said simply tear off the teak decks, throw them away. Fill the 1000's of screw holes and lay a new layer of fiberglass over it. Looking back now I really really should've listened to them. I spent lots of money and time making new teak pieces to fit where old ones were too far gone. The boat had other structural problems that were getting worse with the continued leaking of my recaulked decks so I finally ended up stripping the boat and leaving the title with the yard.

Scenarios like mine are all too common on boats with teak decks. Teak requires constant maintenance in keep the wood oiled and washed to prevent fungus. There is a reason on the old sailing ships that they flogged the decks daily. The wash down with salt water kept the mold and mildew from growing. Teak decks have no place on a fiberglass boat especially when they are screwed down. Bonded is a little different. Teak is by far more maintenance intensive than a molded nonskid. The modern two part LPU paints with griptex or other added in will be very low maintenance for years to come as well.

Don't get me wrong teak is beautiful and I love some wood on a boat to dress it up. Teak decks belong on wood boats which is what it sounds like you have so cheers. Now ending my crazy though wanderings on teak, Appick out!

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by sestina

Sikaflex 290. It's the dogs's danglies. You must use the horribly expensive Sika cleaner and primer for the best results.

My decks didn't have breaker tape and they lasted 26 years until I decided to remove the teak and replace with paint.

I would agree. That's exactly what I used. Forget the breaker tape , not needed.

But all in all I'd never have extensive deck decks again on a boat.

Dave

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

...Forget the breaker tape , not needed...

No. Don't forget the bond breaker tape.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

No. Don't forget the bond breaker tape.

If you use modern polyurethane sealant, the bond breaker serves little or no purpose since the sealant is more then capable of coping with the expansion and Its adhesion qualities are such that it will not detach from the teak.

The same is not true of older sealants like polysulphides and other sealants.

For sika its important to use the catalyst on the teak.

Dave

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

If you use modern polyurethane sealant, the bond breaker serves little or no purpose since the sealant is more then capable of coping with the expansion...

Wrong!

[LakeSuperior]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

If you use modern polyurethane sealant, the bond breaker serves little or no purpose since the sealant is more then capable of coping with the expansion and Its adhesion qualities are such that it will not detach from the teak.
Dave

3M specified bond breaker tape to be used with their product. Not sure if it was a polyurethane however. Did the job 10 years ago.

There are sure to be imperfections in the preparation of the 100's of miles of seam on a teak deck like poor prep or contamination. It would be wise to use the bond breaker as it is not a perfect world and there are bound to be sections of seam where the bonding is less than perfect.

[HansSolo]

Teak Decking Systems recommends using bond breaker tape with their sis440 calk… Then again its a silane polymer not a polyurethane. Great stuff though! As for Sikaflex 290 witch is a polyurethane, the product data sheet states that "Typical surface preparation will include the use of bond breaker tape and Sika®Primer- 215."

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by LakeSuperior

So then why did you decide to remove the teak with the teak being nearly maintenance free and the paint on the deck needing work every couple years? Plus teak is by far the best no-skid on the planet.

Teak decking in the tropics has about a 12 to 15 year life if well cared for. At 75 kilo-bucks for our boat, AWL Grip & non-skid was an easy decision. Life in Marquette with 2 months season, tarped winter, constant overcast will last 6 to 10 times longer, i.e. forever.

We have teak decking in the cockpit under the Bimini. I didn't know any better at the time so I used 3M 4200 black. Its been there 6 years and looks good. I applied like tile grout & sanded off the excess - oil regularly. Very little differential expansion, etc. I suppose I got away with murder. I'll take luck any time.