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Old 25-06-2009, 12:14   #46
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Location: Manchester Washington
Boat: Irwin- Barefoot 37CC (Custom MK V) "Quest"
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I believe the boats were built in Bremerton WA and the company is long gone. I think the original design was done by Bill Buchan and modified slightly bu the builder. He had formally been the Bremerton Postmaster who retired and loved boats. There is one now at the Port Orchard YC and there were several at the bremerton Yacht Club. I think a note to those clubs would put you in touch with a number of current or previous owners.

Good Luck

Joe S
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Old 26-06-2009, 10:34   #47
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Boat: Buchan 37, Distance
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JB, There really aren't any drawing or manuals for the boats. The lines drawings apparently made by Lon Robinson when hull number 8 was being built. I was a boeing engineer so he reverse engineered the boat. I do have some original blue prints of the boat that I can make copies of but they do not have any construction details. There was a guy who did re-do the hull deck joint on his boat and it looks super cool. I don't know his full name but he owns Walrus machine shop and the boat is out at Shilshole

Good luck
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Old 26-06-2009, 15:38   #48
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Boat: Buchan 37 - Gratitude
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Thanks for the lead Distance! I'll google the machine shop to see if I can get in touch with him.

If it's possible to scan the blueprints, I would be greatly appreciative.

I am working on making some drawings of her that I would be more than happy to share when I'm done (although it may take me a couple of months, as I'm doing it while in the midst of working on her).

Cheers,
JB
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Old 28-06-2009, 22:22   #49
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Buchan Hull Deck joint

Hey JB,

I had some leaks in my deck join as well, but they went away after I refinished and sealed my toe rail. I had thought of removing it so I could rebed it properly but after seeing how much work it would be given the glassed over fasteners on the inside I abandond the idea. The best I can tell is the deck fits inside the hull laminate and is glassed into place on the inside with maybe some adhesive applied to the edges of the deck where it contacts the hull, just guessing here. As I was digging out the tons of silicon sealent (hate the stuff) used to fill in the gaps under the rail I found some places where the deck laminate was loose from the hull. I wicked in some epoxy and then sealed with 3M 4200 though I don't expect the epoxy to adhear given all the silicon that was used there previously. Perhaps the deck edge was never bonded on purpose so the deck could be removed without destroying it by just cutting away the fiberglass doublers on the inside. The toerail fasteners will have to be replaced eventualy because they are already rusty and won't last forever, and the track for the genoa is only screwed to the rail, not through bolted to the deck. This may be alright and accepted practice but it doesn't seem strong enough to me. I'm afraid I will be beating hard to windward and have the track, rail or both come loose and spoil my day. Anyway, what ever you find out I hope you can share with the rest of us. Good luck with your toe rail project, did you manage to get it removed?

Fred
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Old 29-06-2009, 07:37   #50
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Hey Fred,

Thanks for the insight--the toe rail project is not something I am looking forward to. I didn't get a chance to look at it this weekend as I was working on other projects on the boat. I am detailing much of the work here: blog gratitude at sea.

I'll keep you posted on what I do with the toe rail.

Cheers,
JB
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Old 29-06-2009, 20:41   #51
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That's a lot's a work

Hey JB,

I don't mind saying you bit off a big ol hunk o sweat equity though I can't say I wouldn't have done it myself. Maelstrom had some issues when I bought her too. I had to take the hull down to fiberglass waterline down and epoxy coat, see pic. But the interior was in pretty good shape. I don't know if my cabin top is sandwich construction or just plywood as there is 1/4" teak ply acting as veneer throughout. I guess you never know what evil lurks behind a pretty face but as far as I can tell it's all good, aside from the drooping head liner anyway. Heres a couple of pics of the inside in your interested.

Cheers,
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Old 26-10-2009, 12:42   #52
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Hull to Deck joint...

Hey fellas,

It's been a journey. Progress is coming along and we're scheduled to be hauled out next week.

We're in the middle of redoing the hull to deck joint. We've removed a section of the rotted out teak toe rail discovered what the joint looked like. The deck has an upward turned flange and meets the vertical flange of the hull. There is a piece of 3/8" ply that rests between the two flanges (I'm guessing used to help join the two members?).

Wondering if anyone here has redone the hull to deck joint on their B37's. And if so, did you use ply between the two members (or something synthetic)? Any help or feedback would be greatly appreciated.





Cheers,
JB

gratitude at sea
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Old 26-10-2009, 13:15   #53
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Hull deck join

Hi JB,

My deck join is quite different. I had a delam in the join at one of the scupper locations in the toerail, and what it appears to be is just a butt joint with the deck (about 1" thick, cored) bonded to the inside surface of the hull, flush with the shearline, and a heavy fiberglass fillet laid into the resulting corner on the inside. The toe rail was installed flush (mostly) with the topsides. I have a different cabin top than you so I think we would be comparing apples and oranges. I had heard everyone who bought one of these finnished them out themselvs so you get a lot of varience from boat to boat and year to year. Wish I cold be more help.


Peace,
Fred
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Old 08-01-2010, 23:13   #54
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Boat: Wauquiez Pretorien 35
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I thought I'd check in and see if anyone has a solution for the hull to check joint/chine leak issue? We've got the same problem on Big Mir and I'm trying to figure out a solution. I have a few ideas but none are particular easy.

Another issue I'm working on is sound proofing the engine compartment - What do others recommend for sound proofing materials? How small a box can or should the box around the engine be?

We're still plugging away on our project (my sister and I) - It's turned into a long drawn out rebuild, but we might get the mast back in later this spring and do some sailing this summer.

Have fun!
Ross
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Old 08-01-2010, 23:46   #55
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Hi Ross

As you stated, resealing the deck/hull join has no easy opptions. I got a lot of mileage from just recaulking the teak toerail, saving the realy sucky work for another day (see removing the toerail, Gahk!).

As far as the sound abatement, there used to be a foam product available with a thin lead skin on one surface that you could bond to the bulkheads in the engine compartment. I don't know if you can still get it or not due to the lead but it's worth looking on google. I have seen some other products with some pretty sporty claims as far as noise attenuation but can't think of the names right off hand. But one thing to keep in mind is there is a direct relationship between sound abatement and barrier density. The heavier the wall the less sound makes it through, but at some point adding more insulation is flogging a dead horse as engine vibration transmitted through the hull via the engine beds will become the largest sorce of noise and cannot be completely eliminated.

In regards to proximity to your engine, you can get as close as engine movement and servicability alow as long as you provide enough ventilation in and out. For my Beta28 they recomend at least 20 sq. cent area for inlet and 3 times that for outlet, preferably with a blower fan if the compartment is small. The compartment on my Buchan is about 26-28 inches wide and a good 6 ft. long so I have a lot of room for convection, but I still run a vent fan when under power.

Hope this helps
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Old 10-01-2010, 20:16   #56
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deck to hull

For what it's worth, I'm still in the process of redoing our hull to deck joint. We opted to replace the whole joint, since the caulking and wood joiner were both pretty rotted out.

I've laminated together three 1/8" pieces of mahogany luann with epoxy. I cut the strips to 2" in height to match the original dimensions.

Then to assemble: I am filling the gap with 5200, wedging in the wood, and clamping the sides together until it cures.

This may be overkill to fix some leaks...but it's what we're doing on our B-37.

Good luck!
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Old 11-02-2010, 13:22   #57
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deck leaks ?

We've been getting a lot of rain in the Bay Area.

About the only place I really can access and empty my B37's bilge is in the campanionway/galley area, and aft. Do most deck leaks drain into this area ?

And sometimes the topside disc cover/vent to my chain locker gets blown out of place - what happens to rain that enters the chain locker ? And my metal toe rail has a nasty gash along it's length in the hull deck/joint area. Everything's solid but I'm worried about the possibility of rot getting a foot hold. thanks for any feedback.
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Old 12-02-2010, 19:02   #58
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Deck leaks

I guess it all depends on your cabin layout. Maelstrom has many cubby holes against the hull and most of them don't drain anywhere so when a deck leak occurs it is pretty obvious because of where the water collects though sealing up the toerail put an end to most of them. My chain locker is similar in that it doesn't drain anywhere, and directly aft of the chainlocker bulkhead is another compartment under what was the head of the vbirth, which is also void of limber holes. Since the sides of these comaprtments extend well above the waterline I can only suppose that the thinking was in case of holeing the hull these compartments would fill and prevent or slow down the ingress of water (Titanic?). I am currently remodleing the vbirth into a double on the starboard side with lockers to port so while this is all torn appart I will install individual drain pipe of generous dia. leading aft to the bilge sump in the keel, perhaps with shutoff valves in the event of the formentioned emergancy.
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Old 24-02-2010, 16:43   #59
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Unhappy a zinc inside, aft of engine area ?

The gentleman who sold me the B37 (Bay Area) said that there was a zinc aft of the galley/engine area, (inside the boat). I crawled in there but couldn't find it - thanks for any pointers.
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Old 26-02-2010, 21:09   #60
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Inner zinks

Well that's a new one for me, perhaps he was talking about one of those "grouper" zinks that you pich over the side in the winter and alligator clamp to the motor for extra protection. I have many ground wires conecting the fuel tanks, the strut and such but they all lead back to the engine as the main ground. Can't imagine why there would be a zink installed on the inside unless it was a spare or something. Lifes mysteries.
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