Originally Posted by Transporter2112
I would Love a copy of the 6.5 manual. I saw one for the 23 but not the 6.5. The Main sheets
are a little different. Looking at the pics for the 23 they seem to have a rope system on the transom, with the main sheet attached to a pulley that will maintain equal pressure on the 2 attachment points on the transom. The 6.5 seems to have a steel cable with a clamped eye that the mainsheet block attaches to. The weird thing is that when the boom is reaching to one side or the other there is only tension on one side of the steel cable, so all the pressure from the main sail is transferred to the transom through 2 little screws. Seems odd. Thats how I have mine set up and i found a website with a 6.5 and there is a picture that shows the mainsheet block hooked to the same wire that i have mine hooked to.
In the 7th picture you can see the cable Im talking about over the guys shoulder. It comes over the tiller so that you can steer and provides an attachment point in the center of the boat for the bottom block of the mainsheet.
Karma in Little America's Cup 2006 (Gallery)
Like somebody remarked, Garhauer makes good cost effective stuff, along with Harken
, Shaefer, Ronstan, et al. Pull down some web pages and catalogs, and study the hardware
available. Draw out what you want on paper; then shell out the clams, errr, boat bucks.
A single (or double) block with cam and becket like Marine Single Blocks With Cam And Becket on Sale
(manual calls for one with a fiddle too), upside down,
for the bottom blocking (the fixed end of the mainsheet is tied to the becket, then goes up to the boom block, back down to lower block and camcleat, split transom wires attached to the blocks' shackle).
And a plain single (or double) block shackled to the boom would work and give you a 2:1, 3:1, or even 4:1 purchase
Blocks are sized to the mainsheet line diameter, and loads applied.
Agree that those two screws into transom top are a bit light sounding, a heavy gybe might pull them out. They had better be in there deep, or glassed in/backed.
As far as only one wire bearing the load at a time, it has to be that way without a floating pulley riding on one V'ed wire.
Each boat model may have used either 'non-traveler' arrangement, both work.
Not a problem, the main develops a fair amount of force, but it's a fairly small boat. Having two wires offset from centerline allows the boom to be centered on either tack.
A traveler is primarily a sail tuning and shaping device (sets mainsail
angle of attack relative to centerline course mostly). You could add one back there, just depends on your boatbucks piggybank...(from the pictures there's no way to add it on the cabintop, too close to the mast for any leverage).
On your link, the third picture (starboard side view), zoomed in, shows the layout pretty well, except can't tell the purchase
on the mainsheet. From the seventh pic it looks to be a single block, just 2:1 purchase then, you could rig it with more.
The manual is dated 1979, ToC lists both 6.5 and 2- 23's, a centerboard
and a keel
underbody, plus the 28' model.
It doesn't show any rigging diagrams, rigging dimensions, etc., or much detail; mostly just basic specs and how-tos. PM an email
address and I'll eventually get it over.
Tried to C&P the mainsheet rigging info from the pdf manual, page 11, here, but CF said too many characters(?).