Bluewater Beneteau

[flinke]

Opinions on the capability of a Beneteau Oceanis 40 making bluewater passages and cruising Carib/Pacific.

Is it possible?

Basic additional requirements outside the norm, specific to the boat?

Preferably from those who have done so on a Bene, Bav or similar light displacement production of this sort also without the mention of Cheeki Rafiki.

Go!

[Tetepare]

Absolutely impossible.

[Sailmonkey]

It cannot be done,

Unless you happen to be one of the thousands that have done it on those very boats.

Look for markj here, he's done it.

[RickG]

As a Beneteau 40 owner in the Virgin Islands and a Beneteau 423 liveaboard on the Chesapeake, we do the Caribbean passages with no unusual problems. Every Beneteau in the Caribbean got there on its own. We had a proper survey done on each boat when we bought her and addressed the challenges. Good surveyors will know what to look for.

Some things to check on the B40:

- Thru-hulls - well known challenges with low cost parts, plan on replacing below water brass thru-hulls and fittings with proper ABYC seacocks. We did this exercise on our 423 when we bought her. The 40 was hauled in St. Thomas this week and we are replacing thru-hulls that show any issues with ABYC rated replacements.

- Spreaders - Check the spars on the 40, we found during survey that loose standing rigging had allowed the attachment to the mast to flex. The solution was for the seller to pay to have them replaced.

- Electrical connections - have the electrical carefully checked. We had improperly spliced connections to our bilge pump switch.

- Instruments relays - under heavy conditions with some pounding the instrument relay would occasionally loose contact, taking with it instrument and autopilot. We cleaned the contacts and secured with a zip tie.

- Swim platform - check for water incursion in any gel coat cracks.

- Standing rigging - we had to replace a couple of fittings.

- Transmission - We had a former charter vessel and replaced the transmission after two repairs. Damper plate needed to be replaced too.

- Fuel system - there is a fin mesh on the fuel pickup. Frisky sailing with a tank that is not perfectly clean will cause sediment to clog the pickup. Solution is to remove the screen and let the Racor and fuel filter do their job.

Under sail in frisky seas the B40 does pretty well. It will pound under the right conditions, like any flattish bottom hull with a bolt-on keel. The v-berth is pretty small and 3-cabin versions lack storage.

Otherwise, like any other boat you're shopping for, buyer beware.

Cheers, RickG

[Tetepare]

Originally Posted by RickG

low cost parts, plan on replacing below water brass thru-hulls and fittins with proper ABYC seacocks.

I hate to derail a thread, but since the original topic is one regularly argued, I'm going to do it.

I've observed several posts that recommend replacing brass thru-hulls with synthetic. Can somebody fill me in here? Brass is expensive. Why would builders use it if it's expensive and junk? Is it a corrosion problem? Please make me more learned.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by Tetepare

I hate to derail a thread, but since the original topic is one regularly argued, I'm going to do it.

I've observed several posts that recommend replacing brass thru-hulls with synthetic. Can somebody fill me in here? Brass is expensive. Why would builders use it if it's expensive and junk? Is it a corrosion problem? Please make me more learned.

Brass is ccheap and bronze is expensive

[flinke]

Originally Posted by Tetepare

Absolutely impossible.

Chill out,

Absolutely impossible?

Maybe the general topic is mentioned (light vs heavy) and the usual huh-hah by the same suspects but not in this specific form. I.e. People that have actual done it on above mentioned vessel.

[flinke]

Originally Posted by RickG

As a Beneteau 40 owner in the Virgin Islands and a Beneteau 423 liveaboard on the Chesapeake, we do the Caribbean passages with no unusual problems. Every Beneteau in the Caribbean got there on its own. We had a proper survey done on each boat when we bought her and addressed the challenges. Good surveyors will know what to look for.

Some things to check on the B40:

- Thru-hulls - well known challenges with low cost parts, plan on replacing below water brass thru-hulls and fittings with proper ABYC seacocks. We did this exercise on our 423 when we bought her. The 40 was hauled in St. Thomas this week and we are replacing thru-hulls that show any issues with ABYC rated replacements.

- Spreaders - Check the spars on the 40, we found during survey that loose standing rigging had allowed the attachment to the mast to flex. The solution was for the seller to pay to have them replaced.

- Electrical connections - have the electrical carefully checked. We had improperly spliced connections to our bilge pump switch.

- Instruments relays - under heavy conditions with some pounding the instrument relay would occasionally loose contact, taking with it instrument and autopilot. We cleaned the contacts and secured with a zip tie.

- Swim platform - check for water incursion in any gel coat cracks.

- Standing rigging - we had to replace a couple of fittings.

- Transmission - We had a former charter vessel and replaced the transmission after two repairs. Damper plate needed to be replaced too.

- Fuel system - there is a fin mesh on the fuel pickup. Frisky sailing with a tank that is not perfectly clean will cause sediment to clog the pickup. Solution is to remove the screen and let the Racor and fuel filter do their job.

Under sail in frisky seas the B40 does pretty well. It will pound under the right conditions, like any flattish bottom hull with a bolt-on keel. The v-berth is pretty small and 3-cabin versions lack storage.

Otherwise, like any other boat you're shopping for, buyer beware.

Cheers, RickG

Thanks Rick G and Sailmonkey,

Very good points indeed.

With reference to Rig and sail plan how has the standard setup faired?

[RickG]

Originally Posted by flinke

Thanks Rick G and Sailmonkey,

Very good points indeed.

With reference to Rig and sail plan how has the standard setup faired?

The B40 sees about 12 weeks of use per year. I would describe maintenance as normal for a boat this age. She has a bit of weather helm and we need to get a pro out to help use dynamically tune the rigging. But, she is quite fun to sail and does well reefed in the 20+kts we see in the winter in the Virgins. She is relatively fast given her water line. We just put a new Neil Pryde main on her. She does not have a furling main.

Cheers, RickG

[Captsteve53]

Brass valves fittings are for your home, Brass is not to be used on vessels due to the high content of zinc which as a anode eats away quickly leaving you with a very brittle valve/fitting ready to collapse at any moment,This very common failure is referred to as : Dezincifaction.

Actually many ship suppliers still sell Bronze valves that do not meet the common marine standard where as the true Bronze valve will have the marine standard attached or marked on it to meet :ANSI/UL 1121 Most of the correctly certified valves are of the flanged type where as most non compliant are the screw type

Hope this is clear enough!

[Steadman Uhlich]

Originally Posted by flinke

Opinions on the capability of a Beneteau Oceanis 40 making bluewater passages and cruising Carib/Pacific.

Is it possible?

Basic additional requirements outside the norm, specific to the boat?

Preferably from those who have done so on a Bene, Bav or similar light displacement production of this sort also without the mention of Cheeki Rafiki.

Go!

MARKJ is a long time CF member who has completed a Circumnavigation in his Beneteau 393, and he continues to cruise in it, often singlehanded.

Here is a link to his personal blog where you can see years of his posts, photos, his boat, etc.

Our Life At Sea - Sailing Yacht 'Sea Life'

As you say: GO!

[flinke]

Originally Posted by RickG

The B40 sees about 12 weeks of use per year. I would describe maintenance as normal for a boat this age. She has a bit of weather helm and we need to get a pro out to help use dynamically tune the rigging. But, she is quite fun to sail and does well reefed in the 20+kts we see in the winter in the Virgins. She is relatively fast given her water line. We just put a new Neil Pryde main on her. She does not have a furling main.



Cheers, RickG

Yes I have noticed the tendency to round up a little.

For the longer distance stuff and with regard to heavier condition exposure would an inner forstay with a staysail for example be a good idea to make her more suitable ?

Thanks

[flinke]

Originally Posted by Steady Hand

MARKJ is a long time CF member who has completed a Circumnavigation in his Beneteau 393, and he continues to cruise in it, often singlehanded.



Here is a link to his personal blog where you can see years of his posts, photos, his boat, etc.



Our Life At Sea - Sailing Yacht 'Sea Life'



As you say: GO!

Thankyou Steady Hand

I will check it out, looks very relevant.

[Tetepare]

Originally Posted by Captsteve53

Actually many ship suppliers still sell Bronze valves that do not meet the common marine standard

No kidding. I always assumed that if they used bronze it would be high quality by default. Thanks for that.

[Captsteve53]

With out the mention of any specific yacht names Beneteau do have a bad reputation with keel Keel studs and their retaining nuts and washers,I have personally inspected many that have had to replace the studs/nuts/washers with many others showing small cracks around the supporting frame matrix,

Several Insurance companies insist on surveys regarding this on Beneteau and Bavaria yachts and below is advice from one such company:

Quote:

The keel/studs/nuts and washers/surrounding hull areas should be inspected visually every year for any signs of corrosion and, in particular, before and after any significant passage. Any sign of corrosion of the studs or signs of rust weeping at the hull to keel join, water ingress around the keel join, or loosening of the studs should be addressed immediately and, wherever possible, with the assistance of a qualified surveyor and/or a reputable repair yard.

Note: It is not generally necessary or advisable to draw the studs and lower the keel unless there is evidence of damage, corrosion or general loosening.