Ok, item 2 . . . Bowsprit
. . . Let me start by saying my current
boat is a Passage
24’, full keel
, heavy displacement
(for its size) pocket cruiser
, designed originally by Tom Gillmer N.A. I believe it derives its origin from that of a Falmouth Cutter
. His first boat was called ‘Blue Moon’ which has been featured in Wooden Boat magazine, and also in Good Old Boat as well as a 27' version. Try Google
. This boat was modified further by Tom Gillmer as a cruising boat with a doghouse type of deck-house and sported a very short bowsprit eg: about 15” ahead of the point of the bow. It was designed as a cutter
rig. Both the forestay and inner stay terminated at the same point on the tang fitting at the front end of this short bowsprit. The downside of this design results in a narrowing of the two stays toward the deck
creating difficulty of tacking the forward jib
through the stays.
The boat was modified yet again by… Graham Shannon N.A, who extended the dog-house to a full length raised coach house, providing 6’ 2” standing headroom
throughout the length of the cabin
, giving the accommodation of a much larger boat eg: 30’ . . . he also redesigned it to a high aspect ratio rig using a 33’ stick which, in my opinion is best suited to a race
boat . . . which this boat is NOT.
In building my boat from a bare hull, I elected to return it to a Cutter Rig by installing a 30’ mast salvaged from an Albin Vega
27, having similar specs to suit this boat and rig. I also lengthened the bow sprit to 30” ahead of the point of the bow at deck
level (this boat has 9 – 10” bulwarks at the forward end) . . . so in reality it is about 24” ahead of the teak
The fore-stay is terminated at the end of the S.S. bow-sprit, while the new inner stay terminates at the traditional position on the forward point of the deck. This arrangement provides a 24” parallel space between the two stays for ease of tacking the Yankee. I should mention I added a pair of back stays from the point of attachment of the inner stay up the mast, and a quick release mechanism at the deck allowing me to pull it back to the mast when flying a huge royal blue Drifter Jib
. . . which we prefer instead of a Spinnaker
Something to consider when taking a mast from another vessel is, determining the “Moments of Inertia” . . . which sounds pretty technical but is basically all about mast “stiffness” . . . enabling you to determine they meet the spec for your boat and rig. I’m basically a ‘backyard’ builder
having no formal training other than hands-on sailing experience. Knowing my short comings, I purchased and studied many books
on the subject of boat building. I found the ones that explained mast, rigging
and sail plan information both clearly, and in a manner I was able to comprehend was “Skene’s elements of Yacht Design” by Francis S. Kinney and “The Complete Rigger’s Apprentice” by Brion Toss … who kindly autographed my book at his Port Townsend WA shop.
Another point to keep in mind is the C of E of the entire sail plan . . . also found in these books
. If you have the Sail plan C of E for the Tanzer, you can make a scaled drawing of your new plan and compare for any change in the sail plan C of E . . . all this information is available in the two books I have mentioned.
As for my new Bowsprit, yes, I constructed it from stainless steel
pipe, with tangs and brackets to accommodate not only the Jib stay and an Alado Furler
, but also mounting flanges to the hull, a tang for a ½” S.S. rod bobstay, Flanges for both Pulpit and trail-board nameplates port and starboard, plus two bronze rollers for twin anchors.
I may have forgotten some items but the learned ones on this forum will be quick to bring it to your attention. Also, I might be able to produce some photos if only I knew how to do that. I'll have to see if there are instructions for doing so.