5200 to re-seal a hatch cover?

[downwinder]

Greetings. I know 5200 is white/black and don't think it would look nice on the border of a hatch that goes on the metal border of the hatch. I don't think silicone is strong enough for the job. I would greatly appreciate any advice/recommendations. Cheers-

[Ex-Calif]

Originally Posted by downwinder

Greetings. I know 5200 is white/black and don't think it would look nice on the border of a hatch that goes on the metal border of the hatch. I don't think silicone is strong enough for the job. I would greatly appreciate any advice/recommendations. Cheers-

Bolts and screws are for strength.
Silicone has little to zero place on a boat
Bedding compound is for sealing

5200 is for permanent sealing. Do not use permanent sealing in many places

Consider 4200

[valhalla360]

5200 works great!...until it doesn't. Then it's a huge pain.

Hatches need to be resealed periodically, so a permanent glue is not a great idea.

As ex-calf said, use 4200 or similar.

[appick]

Just remember if you use 5200 be prepared for the next time when you need to take it apart to destroy fiberglass/gelcoat. It is a tenacious glue, but there are MUCH better alternatives for a good bedding compound.

I've used 4200, and Butyl rubber. I like butyl a little better but requires a little more thought when applying. When pulling off my 50 year old hatches that had never been re-bedded (Still didn't leak I was just refinishing decks and hatches) I found good 50 year old butyl rubber underneath... and butyl rubber they went back in with.
I've used both the strips and the caulk in a tube and find they both work well, although others swear only the strips work.

[RKsailsolo]

"(3M) 5200 is for permanent sealing. Do not use permanent sealing in many places."

Good advice, and factual. 5200 is permanent. Substrate failure results if you pull it apart.
Use 4200.

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[Badsanta]

Try life calk

[belizesailor]

5200 is the most misused adhesive in the industry and is not ideal for bedding deck hardware, though it gets misused a lot for this purpose...even in some new builds. As pointed out, deck hardware is screwed or thru bolted, this provides the mechanical bond...an aggressive adhesive (5200) is not whats needed...only a sealant.

If the hatch is leaking between the frame and the deck then remove and rebed (patching will just be a temp fix) with 4000 UV (also a 3M product). 4000 UV only cures fully where exposed to UV light (sunshine), those areas not exposed to light remain soft and thus form a good flexible seal that can work and flex with the deck and still maintain a good seal. 5200 is not as flexible and will develop small breaks in the bond over time as the deck works. These small breaks will leak and then the remaining strongly bonded areas will make it a bitch to get the hatch removed, and cleaned of 5200, to rebed.

As suggested, you can get similar results with butyl too. IIRC there is a thread here already on using butyl.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by downwinder

... don't think it would look nice on the border of a hatch that goes on the metal border of the hatch. I don't think silicone is strong enough for the job. I would greatly appreciate any advice/recommendations. Cheers-

Rereading that, I assume it is leaking between the hatch lens and the frame? In that case you want an adhesive compatible with the lens material. What is the lens material? Make of hatch?

[HopCar]

If you are talking about putting the plastic lens into a metal frame, Life Seal is what you want to use. It bonds to metal and plastic. It doesn't harm the plastic. It is available in clear.
LifeSeal Sealant Tubes
"A unique combination of marine silicone and polyurethane, formulated especially for fiberglass. LifeSeal® offers a fast-curing, low odor, high adhesion, non-sagging, non-corrosive, non-yellowing formula. It provides a durable permanent watertight seal for joints subject to structural movement. May be used above and below the waterline. Use for sealing decks to hulls, thru-hull fittings, vinyl ports, sealing/glazing windshields and bedding marine hardware. Will adhere to metal, glass, wood, Lexan®, ABS® and certain other materials. Can be removed without damaging gel-coat. Not recommended for ferro cement hulls, impregnated wood or oil-soaked materials. Cures in presence of water. Mildew resistant and acid free. Custom colors available."

[Dave852]

Dow795 if you are resealing the lens to the aluminum frame. About the only place silicone is needed on a boat.


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[bstreep]

Originally Posted by Dave852

Dow795 if you are resealing the lens to the aluminum frame. About the only place silicone is needed on a boat.


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Dave is EXACTLY right. This is the THE product for the problem at hand. Check with the folks at Hatchmasters - they do this for a living. And they will tell you Dow 795 is the right product.

[Ex-Calif]

I don't think he is talking about the light/lens itself. The first post says the trim ring that goes around the metal frame.

[Celestialsailor]

[QUOTE=Ex-Calif;1576872]
Silicone has little to zero place on a boat
[/QUOTESilicone seal has many uses on a boat. Like 5200, it can be used in the wrong places.

Originally Posted by HopCar

If you are talking about putting the plastic lens into a metal frame, Life Seal is what you want to use. It bonds to metal and plastic. It doesn't harm the plastic. It is available in clear.
LifeSeal Sealant Tubes
"A unique combination of marine silicone and polyurethane, formulated especially for fiberglass. LifeSeal® offers a fast-curing, low odor, high adhesion, non-sagging, non-corrosive, non-yellowing formula. It provides a durable permanent watertight seal for joints subject to structural movement. May be used above and below the waterline. Use for sealing decks to hulls, thru-hull fittings, vinyl ports, sealing/glazing windshields and bedding marine hardware. Will adhere to metal, glass, wood, Lexan®, ABS® and certain other materials. Can be removed without damaging gel-coat. Not recommended for ferro cement hulls, impregnated wood or oil-soaked materials. Cures in presence of water. Mildew resistant and acid free. Custom colors available."

I would not use life caulk for Polycarbonate (Lexan) it separates from the plastic easily. GE created SilPruf LM 2700 http://www.siliconeforbuilding.com/p..._Catalogue.pdf
It was recommended to me by a Bomar rep. It adheres to polycarb well.
As far as Life caulk goes. I had an Ingrid 38 who's bronze ports leaked horribly. I believe it was Life caulk. The caulking was still semi-soft.

[HopCar]

Celestial, That's not Life Caulk that I recommended. It's Life Seal and it adheres to Lexan very well.

[Cotemar]

I 2nd the use of Boat Life - Life Seal for beading hatches. We have been using it for years on everything boat.