Hi Carogan, Welcomne aboard.
It looks as though you have found a nice boat. I am a fan of Peterson
1. Haul out, clean, strip? and paint hull - time (how much, and cost of labour), materials, equipment and facility rental
Painting the hull can be quite a big and expensive job... potentially thousands of bucks. To start off with, at least, Unless the paint is in really terrible condition I'd suggest giving it a thorough clean, then a cut and polish and a wax. Below the waterline, a full repaint is also a big and expensive job. Again, I'd be getting a haul out and inspecting before launching into anything too major. It may be sufficient to just give the existing anti-foul a sand a nd a re-coat (ask the current
owner what anti-foul paint he used, so you can use the same or compatible).
2. Beta Marine deisel 3.0 - 3 years old and only 31 hours. The owners said they start it up once a month or so. Is there anything I need to do to ensure it is running in top form after sitting so much?
diesels are pretty robust. With low hours and occasional start up, chances are you don't need to do much. For peace of mind, however, you could get a marine diesel mechanic
and run his professional eye over the installation
. That shouldn't cost much.. he will probably replace the filters and change the oil
. It might be worth asking him to check the engine mounts and the alignement with the shaft.
3. Safety lines around hull may need replacing.
Insepct the safety lines. Any broken strands or rust, its probably worth replacing them. This shouldn't be an expensive job, and any mast rigger will be able to give you a quote. Specifiy 1x19 stainless steel
wire, AISI 316 grade, uncoated.
4. Rigging - serviceable but starting to age. How much to replace.
Most people would plan on replacing standing rigging every 8-10 years, I guess, others are happy to go to 15 years . Some Insurance
companies will insist on replacement at 10 years, if you want your mast to be covered by your policy. I don't know how prices are where you are, but I'd guess it will cost around $2500-$3000 to replace all standing rigging on a boat your size. Again, I inspect carefully (or pay a rigger to inspect and go with their recommendation. In fact, if you are planning to repaint the mast, it is cheaper and easier to repace the rigging while the mast is out. Don't forget - it is just as important to replace the turnbuckles / rigging screws as it is to replace the wire.
5. Mast/boom/spreaders - aluminum. May need painting.
Because aluminium self-protects with an oxide coating, the need to paint is really largely cosmetic. If you do plan to re-paint, the cost will depend very much on how much of the prep you are prepared to do yourself. If you pull out all the halyards (run small diameter "mouse" lines in, so you can pull them back in afterwards), remove the fittings and spreaders, sand off all the old paint, etc. the cost will be less. It will still be an expensive exercise though... etch primer, high build undercoat and top coat! Get 2 or 3 quotes. N.B. If you have the mast out, it is well worth (a) replacing any electrical wiring
in the mast (steaming light, mashead light, mashead VHF
aerial, etc). (c) It is also worth considering replacing the mashead lights and steaming lights... removing and replacing these is such a pain in the butt with the mast in the boat. (c) also check all the sheaves for the halyard
, etc and replace if necessary.
6. Some of the lines need replacing. How much for a spool of line that I can cut to size?
This job is probably not likely to be as simple as buying a spool and cutting bits off. Different lines need different diameters / strengths, etc. It is also a good idea to have as many different colours as possible... you do not want all your lines to look exactly the same. Make an inventory of the different ropes on the boat, recording the sizes and the current condition. Replace the ones that really need it, then work your way through, replacing others in the coming months / years. If you go to your local chandlery, you will probably pay more per foot than if you look around on eBay or on-line shops.
7. Exterior cushions will need to be replaced.
You are going to be paying out a lot of money
on other big-ticket jobs. Live with the cushions for now and replace when some of the other more vital expensive jobs are out of the way.
8. Interior cushions for sleeping berths (v berth/settees/single aft berth) could use updating.
You will probably end up doing work inside the boat... painting / varnishing, etc. It is not, in my opinion, woth replacing upholstery until you are done with that sort of work. Maybe consider replacing the cushion in the berth that you will sleep in, but the rest can wait.
9. There is a slow leak in one of the windows - it may only need sealing? Am I correct to assume this or should I budget for something a little more extensive and invasive?
A temporary seal will be fine in the short term. If the windows are at all crazed looking or have any cracks, you may wish to replace. This, however, is a fairly big and fiddly job (although not particularly expensive), so if you can fix the leak (Sikaflex 291 or similar), leave the windows alone for now.
10. There had been a leak in the mast book which the owner says he repaired (I believe him). However, there is some water that has started to accumulate in the bottom of the lockers, the engine compartment and bilge. It may have come from there (or maybe somewhere else). The boat is not sailed very much. Its not a massive pool of water and the survey should flesh this out. However, could this be coming from the original leak in the mast boot, and if so is this an easy repair or costly?
It is not at all unusual to get water in the boat down the mast. Even if the mast boot seal is perfect, water will enter the mast through the top of the mast or through halyard
exit boxes. If you get regular rain, expect to have to mob
up the odd bucket of water out of the bilge compartments near the mast (or install a small bilge pump
and float switch).
11. The head does not have a holding tank. How difficult (and how much) would it cost to put in one on this type of boat?
Without seeing the head installation
, it is hard to say. However, it shouldn't be a difficult exercise to install a holding tank.
12. I would like at some point to increase the tankage of the fuel (currently only 12 gallons) and water (currently only 18 gallons). There doesn't appear to be many places to add additional tanks (maybe a water bladder under the rear aft berth?). Can anyone suggest how I might be able to do this and how much it may cost?
Without seeing the boat it is difficult to guess. In the short term, jerry jugs for extra fuel and water stored wherever you can find space (i.e. in the lazarette lockers) may be a reasonable option. If you do go for extra tankage, try to keep the tanks near the middle of the boat... putting extra weight in the ends of the boat is not good. In my opinion, if putting in extra tanks, it is worth going with stainless steel
(we got 2 x new 15 gallon tanks in 316 stainless, custom-made to suit the shape of the hull where they fitted, with fittings and inspection/access ports
, for about $300 each)
13. There is no hot water. What is an appropriate, good, yet economical system to do this upgrade, and how much to budget? The most common way to get how water is via an engine heat exchanger
... this takes heat from your engine cooling
system. This is great if you run your engine a lot. The alternatives are on-demand gas heating
... efficient, but (a) relatively risky, and gas is not particularly cheap
, or electric
... 12v is very power hungry. For me, if / when we put hot water in our boat, we will go for a combination that includes an engine heat-exchanger and a short power (240v or 110v) for in marinas
14. How much should I budget for a survey, and how much is too much? What specifics should I be requesting for this?
You probably don't need to request specifics. The surveyor
should know way more than you do about boats and should know exactly what to look for. Do not use any surveyor
suggested by the seller. Ask around your friends or ask at your local yacht clubs / marinas
/ chandleries for recommendations. Expect to pay several hundred dollars for a survey. Keep your survey because the chances are that your insurance
company will request a survey.
Also, there is no shower
in the head. How much do you people miss showing on a boat once you pull out of the marina - do you all actually use your onboard showers a lot, or is it a pain in the ass to use it, clean and maintain it and you avoid using it onboard and seek other methods of showering anyways?
Depending on where you plan to sail, a solar shower can be a simple and effective way to get hot showers. We have a hatch above the head area, so we hang the solar shower off the spinnaker pole, with the hatch open, have a nice hot shower then sponge out the bilge after. One day I'll get around to putting a little bilge pump in...
Thanks in advance for any input you all might be able to share!
My #1 piece of advice... enjoy using your boat. There are 1,000,000 things you could fix, to make the boat perfect, but if the boat is floating now its usable now!