Can we get the low down on Opua and Whangarei NZ?

[teneicm]

Thanks for all the replies, and thanks especially to Grant Mc for the very lengthy response.

As this is the first time in some months that we've been able to use a free internet connection, I was finally able last night to pull up google earth and take a look around Auckland. It does seem there are a few spots where boats are at anchor and reasonably close to a marina that could be used as a dingy landing point. Frankly, it seems that Whangarei would be the best for us (big but not too big, reasonable concentration of services, etc), but the lack of anchoring presents a challenge. I suppose $350 a month (US) isn't terrible for a mooring, but that's still money we'd prefer to keep in our pockets if possible.

We'll definitely stop in and cruise for a bit around Opua, but it may be a bit remote to use as our "base". Which I guess means that we're leaning towards Auckland as a long term stopover point. Does anyone have any thoughts on the best place to anchor around Auckland where there is easy access to a dingy dock and reasonably close (up to a mile) to a food store?

[spiv]

We have just spent the NZ summer there and are now in Fiji.
The anchorage in Whangarey is in the river, small area and shallow. 3h motoring from the ocean, so forget day trips anywhere.
If you like to anchor, then there is really no option: Opua.
Opua has to be one of the friendliest/ cruisers oriented places in the world, we met nothing but friendly smiling people everywhere, even the clearing officers.
As mentioned by others, you can pick up anchor and go cruising, snorkeling, fishing etc and stay on one of the many islands or come back in the evening.
One word of caution: make sure your anchor likes mud, I had problems at time with my Delta.

Whangarei is also very friendly and the place to go for some more heavy duty repairs/ maintenance, bulk shopping, but we like clean waters and that is not the place.

Auckland: we anchored several times there as well, but short stays (1~2 nights) mostly rolly (ferries, launches etc evryewhere) but a good to spend a few hours in the "Big Smoke".

The Hauraki golf with the many well kept islands was the highlight of our stay in NZ, whatever you do do not miss cruising there!

[Fine Tolerance]

We've cleared in at Opua many times and have never had any problems. Customs/Immigration/Quarantine have always bee polite and welcoming.

My suggestion would be to try them all and then choose the one that suits you best. They are all quite close to each other. Auckland, Whangarei and The Bay of Islands are only a days sail apart.

We've never anchored at Whangarei but would be interested in one of the previous posters pointing out where there is an anchorage with close shore access to nearby supplies and marine repair facilities.

Also we have never had any problem with having repairs we've needed done in the Bay of Islands. Usually it is overnight for any item not stocked but as a previous poster has said many things can be fabricated on the spot by skilled workers.

MTBWA (as I am continually struggling with acronyms posted on this site I've made my own... My Two Bobs Worth Anyway)

[Mattz]

Well, I'm sitting in my cabin in Russell, Bay of Islands. The sun is shining and a cool SE breeze is sweeping over from Opua.
I went there a week ago, and there seems to be a thriving marine industry there. The further up the valley I went, the more I found.
Some lovely responses to your questions. Us Kiwis are a proud lot.
I guess, if you want to get away from the maddening crowds, the Bay of Islands is the place. Pretty much deserted at this time of year, but in summer they probably put parking meters in all the bays. They are chokka!
In Whangarei I often see yachts anchored just below Kissing Point, but not for protracted periods. They had problems with floating homes 20 yrs ago. They looked a bit rough and there was angry debate about them. They are gone now, and the council is probably still a bit touchy about them.
Auckland is good if you go somewhere like Panmure, which is close to a rail station, and well served by busses. That's where I am heading when the wind changes.

[grantmc]

Originally Posted by teneicm

I suppose $350 a month (US) isn't terrible for a mooring, but that's still money we'd prefer to keep in our pockets if possible.

Auckland has 15 marinas, Whangarei 3 marinas and there are 2 marinas in the Bay of Islands (Opua and Kerikeri).

I’ve attached a price list from the Westhaven Marina. Charges are relatively similar between marinas right across the country. The Viaduct Marina is in central Auckland and will be a little more. The pricelist will give you a ball park to work with. There is usually a small premium added to live aboard and for short stays. And yes you will need to pay our local 15% GST. Basically exemptions are only given for the goods you will take out of the country on departure. And obviously you know better than anyone what type of mooring you’ll require. But you’ll be very lucky to find somewhere for US$350 per month for a 48 foot cat (but I may have your boat picked incorrectly).

Man I wish. I have a 26 foot 4 tonne mono hull boat and the marina costs me the equivalent of $US235 per month.

Most marinas don’t actually offer swing or pile moorings anyway (my view is the marinas see these as wasting valuable space and far prefer to get everyone on to a finger at 3 to 4 times the price). Although to be fair to marinas, most people seem to prefer their boat in a marina and have all the benefits that brings. You’d certainly need to book well ahead for a swing mooring.

During Summer (Dec-March) marinas will often rent out their berth holders moorings whilst they are away cruising (or maybe their boat is on the hard for a while).

But these days most swing moorings are privately owned. The owner pays a fee for a permit (issued usually bi-annually) to lay a block and chain. And of course they’re built for a maximum tonnage. They are required to be certified every 24 months by a licenced certifier (and this is policed). I took a look at your (very excellent) blog and can see you’ll be in need of something reasonably significant as above.

So you’ll need to plan ahead. Most moorings are traded and rented at this local web site Trade Me (sort of a NZ Craigs List). But hey don’t neglect an email or three to the local yacht clubs once you’ve figured where you want to be. There are often people who don’t mind others using their mooring for zip. Also in many places water front properties may have a mooring or jetty they rarely use and are only too happy to help you out with. Boaties in NZ (we are all boaties or yachties here never boaters) tend to help each other out. Hope this helps.

So I'll put in a plug too for the great guys at our local yachties bulletin forum; crew.org.nz . Select 'forums' from the menu and sail right in.

[Dave852]

Another thought is to join the all points rally to opua. http://www.islandcruising.co.nz/?page_id=1687
It's free to join and super casual but a whole lot of fun to be a part off. You've received some good replies and sure there's more coming. Enjoy NZ, some great people live there.


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[teneicm]

Originally Posted by grantmc

But you’ll be very lucky to find somewhere for US$350 per month for a 48 foot cat (but I may have your boat picked incorrectly).

This is based on the Whangarei public marina rates for a piling. Since they're not out to make a profit, I'd imagine their rates are about as cheap as it gets...

Thanks for the compliment about the blog... The wife will be tickled. I'll have to look at the other links you provided. I see there is a craigslist for Auckland... Any other good places to look for a used car?

Cheers- Matt

[El Pinguino]

Originally Posted by grantmc

.........There is usually a small premium added to live aboard and for short stays. And yes you will need to pay our local 15% GST. Basically exemptions are only given for the goods you will take out of the country on departure. And obviously you know better than anyone what type of mooring you’ll require. But you’ll be very lucky to find somewhere for US$350 per month for a 48 foot cat (but I may have your boat picked incorrectly). ......

I'm paying no GST on my Marina fees - slip or travelift - and my (NZ) insurance is GST free as well.

The $500 NZD I quoted as a monthly rate is for a sub 12 metre boat

[JPA Cate]

teneicm,

One other port to consider is Tauranga. People used to go there to do work on their boats, there's a town, and hence, you can get groceries. It is too long since we have been in NZ to be much use to you, but you might want to check it out; it really depends on what you guys personally require to have a good time. We liked all three, Opua, Whangerei, and Auckland, so we're no help at all! I will say the town basin in Whangerei was convenient, and Gulf Harbour, you really needed a car. At that time, there were weekly car auctions in Auckland, and it was relatively easy to buy a car and get insurance. Our 2nd season in NZ (it's really captivating), we car toured the South Island, having missed out on any good weather windows for heading south by boat the first season.

Ann

[grantmc]

Originally Posted by El Pinguino

I'm paying no GST on my Marina fees - slip or travelift - and my (NZ) insurance is GST free as well.
The $500 NZD I quoted as a monthly rate is for a sub 12 metre boat

Very keen to know the name of the marina that doesn't charge GST.

[El Pinguino]

Originally Posted by grantmc

Very keen to know the name of the marina that doesn't charge GST.

I just made that up... forget that I said it.. you don't happen to work for the tax department by any chance?

[Neptune's Gear]

I'm at Gulf Harbour, in the village. There are 3 marinas in this complex, Gulf Harbour marina, The marine village, and Fairway bay. Fairway bay is the smallest, newest, and cheapest.
If you get down this way, come by for a beer! PM me here, or Island Time on crew.org.nz if I can help with any local info or boat issues.
Cheers
Matt 0221539176

[Dave852]

Your boat will be zero rated under your foreign boat cruising permit meaning that all purchases made for the boat will have a gst refund. Not sure if you could claim marina fees though.


Sent from my iPhone using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[El Pinguino]

Marina - Tauranga Bridge Marina : Bay of Plenty : NZ Port of Entry - rental marina berths, travelift, haulout, hardstand, refuelling & security


"In some instances overseas vessels will be entitled to an exemption from the 15% GST (Goods & Services Tax) which applies in New Zealand on berth fees.

Applies to overseas visiting vessels holding a current Temporary Import Entry Certificate issued by New Zealand Customs. The exemption applies only to berth fees and will only be refunded at the end of your stay at Tauranga Bridge Marina."

[exMaggieDrum]

Originally Posted by grantmc

An easy way to get an idea of what you might be coming to is to jump on Google Earth and take a look. Opua, Whangarei and Auckland are all situated in very large areas of harbour.

Opua is situated in the Bay of Islands. The Bay of Islands has something like 300 km of coast line and contains, I think, nearly 150 islands of every shape and size one might imagine. There are a few very small villages doted about, Keri Keri, Pahia, Russel, Okiato, Waitangi. They are all little villages with a few hundred people. Scattered throughout the wider Bay of Islands are thousands of holiday homes joined together by terrible winding narrow roads.. There are so many places to safely anchor in the Bay of Islands that you could live there for years, at anchor, changing location every week or two and still not see it all.

The Bay of Islands is Auckland’s playground. Dotted throughout are homes, many are beautiful homes for the ultra wealthy. So flying helicopters are, sadly, a regular feature. But the majority are shacks (what New Zealander’s call a bach). The locals living there are mostly poor, or they’ve tuned out of modern society. The vast majority live on welfare.

Whangarei is actually a very very large natural harbour fed by numerous rivers. At the head of the harbour lies the Hatea River where the city of Whangarei itself exists, built around the river entrance. There’s nothing particularly attractive about Whangarei city. As New Zealand cities go it has a large degree of unemployment and nearly half of the population live on benefits. Graffiti, crime, drugs, gangs is my mental picture of Whangarei city. I’m sure people living there would disagree with me but the Northland region (basically the area north of Auckland) has all sorts of problems from lack of development, get rich quick schemes, minimal industry.

From the 'heads of the harbour (where the oil refinery someone mentioned is) to the Riverside Marina in the Hatea River, right smack dab in the heart of Whangarei city is a 10 nm trip. Along the way there are numerous places you can safely anchor. It is quite tidal and there are huge areas of tidal flats. But there’s also considerable safe water and many lovely places to drop the pick.

Auckland itself was built right smack dab in the midst of an isthmus, which on the east lies the Pacific Ocean and the west the Tasman Sea. Again numerous rivers, hills, valleys bays and. dare I say it volcanoes. Auckland has 3,100 kms of coastline. It’s huge physically, but it also is a sprawling city, where a third of New Zealand’s population live.

In all three locations there are many many places you can safely and legally live on the hook. There are no anchor Police in New Zealand unless you’re stupid and anchor in a shipping lane. You can expect the occasional visit from a harbour or fisheries ranger. They’ll be asking if you have sewage facilities and be interested that you might be exceeding fishing limits. Mainly they’re interested in ensuring you know the rules.

My personal guide to anchoring is to usually anchor where there are moorings. The moorings are typically in more sheltered spots with reasonable holding.

Worth pointing out too is that in New Zealand no one can buy the seashore. It is always public. And we have what is called the Queen’s Chain (we were an English colony). That means that land ownership can only start 22 metres/yards above the high water mark. Even at privately owned islands you aren’t prevent you from anchoring. The only exception to this are Government reserves typically for endangered species but they are clearly sign posted.

In order to decide where to go you need to consider what it is you’ll need and what is your taste. If you want an exciting city life, then Auckland no question, but no matter where you anchor up you’ll have hundreds of houses looking out at you. Transport around Auckland is horrendously congested. Public transport is sadly lacking, and geared almost entirely to the commuters. You’ll be best to buy a little car (and for NZ$2K you can get something quite acceptable to me anyway, maybe you prefer a Porsche, there are plenty of those too). But be aware, like Los Angeles, Auckland was built around the car.

If your prefer somewhere with million dollar views, and are happy to go for days on end without seeing people then the Bay of Islands are perfect. But every week or so, when you need to buy groceries you’ll find minimal choices at the shops available in those little tourist villages. The villages are geared towards serving tourists staying in hotels. So wonderful café meals etc. Also there is a very good farmers’ market at Keri Keri. I think it is on Sunday mornings. Because there are so many pleasure boats, there’s a small but thriving marine industry. The choices are limited but the skills are high. Most parts need to be ordered overnight from Auckland.

Whangarei has far more marine services and supplies. But the marine industry there is geared to somewhat larger commercial boats. There are big supermarkets, and several shopping centres.

Auckland has everything in abundance. Prices of labour are pretty similar across all three locations, Expect to pay $80 - $100 per hour for skilled marine labour. The further from Auckland, I think it is fair to say you’ll find the staff more innovative and will, for example, have a go at fabricating a defective part that you would otherwise wait weeks for because it must be imported..

I would also encourage you to consider, during your stay, to sail south. There is far more to NZ than those three destinations.

Excellent writeup! We paid $nz3000 for a little used Nissan that we drove for 18 months and took to the South Island and all around and sold it for 2000 just before we left. The NZ roads are small, narrow, and busy. They were building out highways around Auckland towards Whangarei but expect country roads as described. Scenery up the wazoo though.

Did not notice how dismal Whangarei was. Didn't look hard enough I guess or may be our expectations were low after coming from Vanuatu, Fiji, Tonga, etc. Auckland is not a friendly place on foot as noted. Whangarei does have small marine stores, a sailmaker, a rigger (or two) so easy to get supplies and parts for the boat. Not cheap though.

Interesting dynamics between the Maori and the European settlers.