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Old 30-01-2011, 20:41   #31
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If that boat keeps haunting you, go see it in person. The layout doesn't look terribly efficient to me, but if you are going to live aboard by yourself you should still be able to make it work. The open V berth would be a nuisance with guests aboard, but again- by yourself it almost makes sense. The head looks terribly uncomfortable to me though. I think you'd bang your head several times a day in there. Nothing makes me dislike a boat faster than a design that encourages bumps to my head (I'm talking about you, last Beneteau that I chartered).

Nothing in the photos would rule it out in my mind though. Just a note about being stored out of the water- I agree with a previous poster who mentioned it wasn't necessarily a good thing. My boat was out of the water and stored inside for 5 years before I bought her but that actually caused more projects. Things that are used and maintained will always be in better shape than things that are stored and forgotten. I remember buying a car that had been stored for 25 years. I spent the next year replacing every piece of rubber because it all had dry rotted. I relived that story when I bought my boat. Not a deal breaker, but worth keeping in mind.

Best of luck.
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Old 30-01-2011, 20:59   #32
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What's insurance???? Haven't had anything but liablility for years. Actually insurance is all about the survey. With a good clean survey, you can get insurance on any old boat and it's not all that expensive. For the type of sailing I do, solo ocean passages, hull insurance just isn't available. It has nothing to do with the boat. Even if I could find insurance, it would be too costly. Way easier to sail a cheap boat that I can walk away from without breaking the bank.
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Old 30-01-2011, 21:26   #33
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Hey, I don't know much about issues with steel boats myself. But I did just learn about them not being allowed in our marina. I thought if it was an issue here, it could be in other areas? Marinas will require liability insurance for sure. I don't know if being steel has any bearing on Liability or not. Just something for the OP to check out for himself.
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Old 30-01-2011, 21:39   #34
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insurance on steel boats is a problem in this country--i believe the lady is gonna live more like me than like thee, therefore steel and uninsured rules any and all anchorages i ever set in. she is more than welcome in my circle of crew, friends, and such.....that steering bubble was a good thing for many who used them. hang out in comfort while discomfort reigns and still be in command of boat. actually makes sense for singlehanding. keep it caulked and watertight
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Old 30-01-2011, 22:10   #35
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There is nothing wrong with steel as long as you can get to every part of the hull and deck, if you can't thats where the problems will begin. Single chine has its down sides, which are mainly cosmetic due to the plates being wide causing difficulty when trying to have a fair finish, most will have lots of ripples/woofs unless a lot of bog and fairing where done. they can be harsh when heeled and droping into troughts again caused by the large flat areas. But they are easely driven and have a lot of lateral stability. the single chine when heeled acts as a second keel helping to reduce leeway. Single chine or double are very quick, cheap and easy to repair. I have seen first hand a 40 footer have all the lower plating removed and replaced in just over a week and that included painting. ( I was not to sure about them jest plating over the existing keel plates). If you like it and its sound it could be a good cruiser. Good luck.
Oh and dont over zinc thats a bad thing.
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Old 30-01-2011, 22:13   #36
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I can understand why a marina would want to look closely at a steel boat. Nothing looks crappier than a neglected steel boat with rust stains everywhere. Unfortunately, there are too many unloved boats in Marinas that are forcing up the cost of boat ownership by taking up space. Still, think there are ways for the marina management to handle the situation, if they would make an effort, without reintroducing apartheid.

It is a valid point to bring up the insurance issue. The reality is insurance for those straying off the beaten path is grossly expensive and not economically feasible for a low budget cruiser. Insurance is function of loss potential. A boat that has a good survey will be able to get hull insurance though not for anywhere near replacement cost. I could have gotten hull insurance on my 40 year old FRP boat for not a whole lot more than liabilty. Unfortunately it had so many exclusions about where and how I could sail, didn't consider it. $30,000 isn't chump change but it's not so much money that it would ruin my life if I lost the boat. How anyone can afford to sail a $100,000 plus boat across oceans is beyond me. Hull insurance must cost more than it takes me to live for a year.
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Old 30-01-2011, 23:19   #37
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Originally Posted by roverhi View Post

I can understand why a marina would want to look closely at a steel boat. Nothing looks crappier than a neglected steel boat with rust stains everywhere. Unfortunately, there are too many unloved boats in Marinas that are forcing up the cost of boat ownership by taking up space. Still, think there are ways for the marina management to handle the situation, if they would make an effort, without reintroducing apartheid.
The marina where I am isn't all that snooty, but is heading that direction. The problem with steel boats, the way I understand it is Galvanic Corrosion/Electrolysis issues, rather than appearance. There must have been some serious problems in the past. Otherwise, I'm sure they would be happy to take your money.
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Old 31-01-2011, 00:11   #38
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I doubt the OP is too concerned with solo ocean passages just yet. Probably more a liveaboard at a marina for awhile, from what he stated.

Things to check, or noted in Full Specs -

Deck stepped - check compression post under sole
Engine for the dinghy?
Bilge pump (1) manual - no auto elec. pump?
Needs service on liferaft (if that is important to you)
Head Type - Overboard (no holding tank?)
Nav lights - tricolor (only good if under sail) photos don't show bow, stern, or steaming lights.
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Old 31-01-2011, 00:33   #39
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Can't understand why people are wary of steel boats. Faults in steel are generally conspicuous, and a good steel boat is as safe as you are going to get. One week a year of maintenance is all it takes to keep your steel in good shape.
We have sailed and maintained a steel yacht for 25 years and would not have anything else. In fact, if Nekeyah had been anything but steel, she would have been sunk or at least badly damaged at least three times in her career!
We once put a large hole in a fibreglass yacht, another time a tri broke off a float when she hit us, and once she spent a whole night in a gale with a group of concrete pontoons wrapped around her. In each case our damage was cosmetic. Try that with a plastic fantastic!!
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Old 31-01-2011, 02:12   #40
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I think the key to a negotiate/run decision here is to compile an accurate timeline of the boat's history. From the pictures it's on the hard now, how long has it been there, when was it last in the water & sailed, did the current owner maintain it while out of the water, to what degree, etc.

New standing rigging is a must, and it isn't going to cost a thousand - I would budget 10, depending on what the rigger (you will need one) finds up the mast and down at the chainplates. The condition of the sails is another big ticket item you need to clarify before proceeding.

I don't like the overboard head, you won't be able to use it anywhere near shore unless you spend more $ installing a holding tank & related equipment.

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Old 31-01-2011, 03:23   #41
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Adax, from the views of the forum looks like you need to take a road trip

Suggest you take:

A. A camera, because you will forget stuff in the excitement.

B. Binos, to inspect the top of the mast.

C. Small powerfull torch to go with item D.

D. Mirror on a stick to see in all the nooks and crannies.

Let us know how you get on

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Old 31-01-2011, 03:49   #42
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There are three main components to every boat.

Hull. MUST be sound -for obvious reasons
Rig and sails. Must in in useable condition (you will need to re-rig at the very least, chances are the sails will be old and need partial replacing or repairs)
Engine. It Must be in fully working condition (especially for a noob=expect a major overhaul considering its 4000+hours)

Once you get through those three things everything else the boat has is a bonus. Electronics, stove, heads, emergency gear is all worth nothing if any one of the above three things is not working or in derelict condition.

Also remember that steel boats rust from the inside out. You will need to check every nook and cranny for evidence of rust.

Electolisis may also play a part in deciding if the hull is sound. Its the hidden problem that is often overlooked by noobs buying steel boats. (I have seen owners paint over larger areas of electolisis using the paint as a filler )

If it passes those tests then make a silly offer and see how you go.

Obviously your surveyer will be worth every penny you spend on him too


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Old 31-01-2011, 08:10   #43
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Yes, beware fresh paint.
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Old 31-01-2011, 09:45   #44
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Thank you all folks .

I hace contacted the broker via mail and asked for details about age of photos, existing survey, maintenance programme while the boat is on the hard. I also asked about a 32' Columbia 9:6 sloop, which is in my price range but obviously a completely different boat, smaller in terms of beam as well . But she looks in good nick . Not that excited about it, but it is ok.
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Old 31-01-2011, 09:49   #45
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Thank you all folks .

I hace contacted the broker via mail and asked for details about age of photos, existing survey, maintenance programme while the boat is on the hard. I also asked about a 32' Columbia 9:6 sloop, which is in my price range but obviously a completely different boat, smaller in terms of beam as well . But she looks in good nick . Not that excited about it, but it is ok.
Viewing comparisons on the same/next days a good idea.... see if there's others nearby you could maybe set up...
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