Windlass only goes down

[Charlie]

Hi Linda:

This is going to take a bit of thinking like an electron. If the down button works you know you have power. From that point I would trace the wires for the up button and clean all the contacts. That would be the first step. While I was there I would coat the connections with lanolin or equivalent. This is something that should be done annually though it almost never is done on a schedule but rather when it stops working. If this does not solve the problem then we will need to test the different components such as the solenoid and the switches etc. Please report back what you have found.

[groundtackle]

Push the button. Have someone listen and see if the solenoid clicks. If it does the problem is between the solo old and the windlass, if it does not then the problem is the solenoid or before. If you have voltage at the solenoid and it does not click then the solenoid has failed.
Nick


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[ramblinrod]

Originally Posted by lindabarzini

There are 2 buttons on the wired remote. The down button works fine. When I press the up button. Nothing happens. No sound. Nothing.

OK, so this sounds like an electrical issue.

No windlass should be installed to operate by "remote" only. If the remote battery or connector cable fails, or the remote gets lost or falls overboard, there is no way to operate the windlass electrically. Most windlasses have a manual method for operation, but with large anchors and heavy chain, this can get old fast. After all, you have an electric windlass.

I recommend that the breaker be in fairly easy access, so that in an emergency it can be manually tripped very easily to disconnect power from the windlass.

Though they can be a maintenance item, I recommend foot switches be installed and used for a number of reasons. (It is OK to also have a remote for certain conditions.)

I also recommend a wired up/down switch be installed at the helm to facilitate anchoring when single handing.

So depending on your electric windlass model, the actuator may be a separate electrical component, or integral to the windlass motor housing.

The first step is to check the integrity of all wiring connections between the wired remote or wireless remote controller and actuator. (The motor connections and brushes should be fine.)

It may be simply a loose or corroded connection.

If the actuator has an internal contact problem, tapping the actuator (with a non metallic striker) whether separate or integral may (temporarily) solve it. If this works, the actuator may be likely to fail again; it may be wise to get new one.

Somewhere in the system there is a likely a terminal with "up","down", and "common" (or something to that effect) electrical contacts. It may be possible to temporarily jumper the "up" and "common" contact. If the motor turns, it is likely the switching circuitry that is at fault. If the motor does not turn, it is likely the actuator.

If you are not really savvy with the windlass and/or electrical systems, it may be worthwhile to get someone who is, to troubleshoot and repair this for you.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by ramblinrod

OK, so this sounds like an electrical issue.

No windlass should be installed to operate by "remote" only. If the remote battery or connector cable fails, or the remote gets lost or falls overboard, there is no way to operate the windlass electrically. Most windlasses have a manual method for operation, but with large anchors and heavy chain, this can get old fast. After all, you have an electric windlass.

I recommend that the breaker be in fairly easy access, so that in an emergency it can be manually tripped very easily to disconnect power from the windlass.

Though they can be a maintenance item, I recommend foot switches be installed and used for a number of reasons. (It is OK to also have a remote for certain conditions.)

I also recommend a wired up/down switch be installed at the helm to facilitate anchoring when single handing.

So depending on your electric windlass model, the actuator may be a separate electrical component, or integral to the windlass motor housing.

The first step is to check the integrity of all wiring connections between the wired remote or wireless remote controller and actuator. (The motor connections and brushes should be fine.)

It may be simply a loose or corroded connection.

If the actuator has an internal contact problem, tapping the actuator (with a non metallic striker) whether separate or integral may (temporarily) solve it. If this works, the actuator may be likely to fail again; it may be wise to get new one.

Somewhere in the system there is a likely a terminal with "up","down", and "common" (or something to that effect) electrical contacts. It may be possible to temporarily jumper the "up" and "common" contact. If the motor turns, it is likely the switching circuitry that is at fault. If the motor does not turn, it is likely the actuator.

If you are not really savvy with the windlass and/or electrical systems, it may be worthwhile to get someone who is, to troubleshoot and repair this for you.

Linda, pay attention to this post! Excellent summary, excellent advice... especially the last sentence.

I don't usually go along with the "hire a pro" attitude, but from the nature of your questions it seems appropriate in this case.

Jim

[Myknjul]

We had the same issue but in reverse. Wouldn't go down but came up. Turned out our anchor solenoid was in the bottom of a sail locker and one of the wires was pulled off.... most likely from dropping fenders in it.

[44'cruisingcat]

Is the "remote" the 2 way rocker switch Lewmar supply? If it is, check the wires to it. I've had one of these come off, which produced the symptoms you describe. Make sure the spade connectors are clean and tight.

[Symphony]

I had this problem after winter storage.

the Lewmar contactor (solenoid) went bad on the down director and was unrepairable. it was only 3 seasons old too. bloody expensive to buy a new one but easy to troubleshoot and replace if you are small enough to get in your anchor locker