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Old 29-08-2011, 10:09   #1
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Toe Rail Recaulk

Toe Rail Recaulk

I'm at the stage in my chores that I'm digging out all the old caulking (3M
101 at the time - it's no longer available) to recaulk our toerail.

My fiberglass supplier, with a long history in the boatbuilding biz, is
recommending Bostic 940FS. Water cleanup and tooling, it looks easy to work
with, with a 20 minute skin time..

I'm having some serious questions as to the wisdom of using this material.
The 101 I'm taking out in some places is very resistant to removal (others
pull out fine with the V-shaped tool I'm using to get under the center and
catch the edges in one pass).

However, that's merely caulk, and not an adhesive. Knowing 5200's
reputation for later removal makes me think twice. I hope I don't, but
realistically I expect that at some point in the future, I'll be recaulking
the toe rail. Whether I'd be able to get this stuff out without treating it
(time, money, ?? impact on the paint/teak) is keeping my attention right
now.

Has anyone used this stuff (Bostic 940FS) to say how it behaves,
particularly in having to remove it?

Secondly, if you've had years of experience (how does it hold up?), if not
this, what do you use which is currently available (101's not)?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip
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Old 29-08-2011, 10:19   #2
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Re: Toe Rail Recaulk

wow, i didnt know they quit making 101... i'm confused, is your question about the toe rail, or the current project? For something like a toerail, my plan would be to do that once in my lifetime and it would likely include using 5200 (not quik set) .... unless i convinced myself to use one of the new adhesive type things like urethane etc.
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Old 29-08-2011, 10:20   #3
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Re: Toe Rail Recaulk

PS It also, sez, however, that it's sandable and paintable after cure. Makes me wonder about how flexible it is once it's cured!

L8R

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Old 29-08-2011, 10:36   #4
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Re: Toe Rail Recaulk

101 sandable and paintable? Paintable yes, but 101 doesnt harden for years, is often used underwater and can go into water immeditely after application. so not sure how you would sand it!
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Old 29-08-2011, 11:00   #5
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Re: Toe Rail Recaulk

Sorry I wasn't clear. The Bostic sands and paints. 101 remains flexible and doesn't hold paint...
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Old 29-08-2011, 12:43   #6
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Re: Toe Rail Recaulk

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheechako View Post
wow, i didnt know they quit making 101... i'm confused, is your question about the toe rail, or the current project? For something like a toerail, my plan would be to do that once in my lifetime and it would likely include using 5200 (not quik set) .... unless i convinced myself to use one of the new adhesive type things like urethane etc.
Yes, I'm redoing the toe rail...

Reading other vendors' sites hunting for intelligence suggests never using a silicone for this kind of job.

Guess what type this stuff is...

L8R

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Old 29-08-2011, 13:54   #7
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Re: Toe Rail Recaulk

101 was polysufide I think. Lifecaulk should be similar.
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Old 29-08-2011, 14:01   #8
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If you're just caulking an edge, 5200 is fine. Life caulk doesn't work as well. I tried life caulk on my toenails, but now use 5200 exclusively. Also use it around my chainplates. It gives a bit, but doesn't leak.

Just don't use it to mount hardware -- took me a hour to remove a winch I just knew I'd never have to take off...
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Old 29-08-2011, 14:05   #9
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Re: Toe Rail Recaulk

Not familiar with the product you are requesting info on. Why not switch to 3M 4200 for the toe rail or one of the fine Sikaflex products?
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Old 29-08-2011, 14:08   #10
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Re: Toe Rail Recaulk

This Unibond Sealant Smoother & Remover Tool | Screwfix.com isn't the tool I'm using, but it's similar...
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Old 29-08-2011, 20:12   #11
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Re: Toe Rail Recaulk

i'm really not fond of the 4200 version... just doesnt seem to be the same to me. sika stuff is good for sure.
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Old 29-08-2011, 20:57   #12
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Re: Toe Rail Recaulk

I'm stunned to hear people recommend 5200 on this forum! Every time I bring it up someone jumps on me and says it adheres too well and and I must be nuts to use it!
If you are removing the toe rail and rebedding it, use 5200 and it should never leak. If you are just running a bead of caulk that will be exposed to sunlight use a polysulfide like Life Caulk. It will hold up better to the UV exposure. If you ever have to remove something bedded in 5200 it will be a job but it is not impossible. I use a thin flexible fillet knife to cut under the object. I also help it along with an adhesive remover like that made by Life Industries. If the object is metal and you can heat it with a propane torch, it will jump right off.
Please check out my prices on sealants: Adhesives and Sealants
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Old 29-08-2011, 21:34   #13
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Re: Toe Rail Recaulk

I've never had running a bead of caulk along a toe rail stop a leak for very long. If you are removing the caulk to stop leaks, you'd best remove the toe rail, caulk under it and then replace the rail. Might go with 5200 in that case though I'm sold on LifeCaulk for a general use caulk. LifeCaulk has some adhesive characteristics but find putting a steady pressure on a fitting will pop it off. Have never tried to remove anything bedded in 5200 but the stories don't sound enticing.

One hint for bedding teak, wipe the surface down with acetone. Teak is a very oily wood and most all sealants don't stick to an oily surface.
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Old 29-08-2011, 21:58   #14
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Re: Toe Rail Recaulk

"I've never had running a bead of caulk along a toe rail stop a leak for very long. If you are removing the caulk to stop leaks, you'd best remove the toe rail, caulk under it and then replace the rail."

I second that.
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Old 29-08-2011, 22:13   #15
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