Adding to many of the already great ideas above.
If you are using a broker, have him run a 'Sold Boats' for you. Do this before setting your price
. Not only look at price, but location. Find somewhere in the middle to start, unless your boat is Bristol. Also notice the difference between asking and sold.
Check out NADA on your boat. These numbers are sometimes very low for some boats, but this is what most banks use to determine what they will loan on a boat. Age is also a factor, the older the boat, the fewer banks will lend on the boat, so once boats get past a certain age, they drop significantly. The higher the boat, the harder it is to find a cash buyer.
If there are electronics
installed that do not work, remove them or fix them. Make sure the little things that will be brought up in a survey
are on the boat, working and current
. Trash and oil
placards, fire extinguishers that are not 20 years old. Current
flares, receipts and maintenance logs
. Uneducated buyers will use all the negative marks by a surveyor
including the small safety
items that total less than $100 may bring back a counter of $1000 or more.
Older boats are not wired to current standards. Fix that as much as possible.
If you have a survey
from when you bought the boat, did you fix everything that was mentioned on that? If not, it will come up again.
Create a checklist and locations for through hulls, starting instructions, etc. For the Broker to use when it comes time for a Sea Trial. As well as instructions for using equipment
and where things are located. If your solar charger
is behind a panel, document that. It looks a lot better if a broker can reference a binder with your instructions on all systems then call you 5 times during the sea trial and haul out
. It is also a selling point when a prospect can look through those things.
Video. If your Broker is not doing a video walk-through, do one yourself and post it to youtube.
Selling yourself. Sailboat, sailboatlistings - free and gets a lot of attention. Ebay. Not to auction
your boat off, but a lot of exposure for a little bit of money
If you get an offer and they will be doing a sea trial and haul out
, have a diver come out the day before and clean the hull
and replace the zincs. If your buyer does not have to sit around waiting and paying for a power wash, he will be happier. Happy buyers are good. Also, he is already putting up a bunch of money
, don't let him have the yard come to him and tell him all the zincs are burned.
Select a broker that is no more than a couple miles from the boat. If the best broker is 30 miles away, move the boat closer to him and do this before you list the boat. Larger offices are better than single
broker offices as there is always someone to show the boat if your broker is tied up and allows walk in traffic. I have bought two boats while on vacation, so there are walk in buyers.
SMELLS. Often overlooked. If your boat smells, do your best to find the source and get it fixed, cleaned and aired out. Replace the head
hoses, clean out the holding tank
and leave the head
and systems dry until you sell the boat. Unzip cushions
and place Gain fabric
inside the cushion. If in warm climates, run the A/C, or instruct the broker to turn it on as soon as he gets to the boat to show it. At the very least, run a de-humidifier if you do not live close to the boat and must keep it closed up.
And as others said, clean and maintained goes a long way.
And last on the list is systems. There are a lot of brokers who will not turn anything on when showing a boat. I would rather turn the DC Breaker on and have the VHF radio
come to life, the stereo playing lightly in the background, the A/C cranking out cold air, the electronics
lit up and the boat telling the buyer it is ready. This is as true on a $10K boat as it is on a $1,000,000 boat.