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Old 27-12-2007, 18:24   #1
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Stuffing box or re-stuffing the box / dripless

I am going in...never having re-stuffed...anybody out there want to share some experience? I want to do the rudder pin and the drive shaft...neither are "drip-less" ... any thoughts as to weather drip-less is worth the expense? I'm inclined to stay "old school"...

Thanks,

Dave
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Old 27-12-2007, 19:20   #2
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Dave,
Do a search on this forum. There is a very good description link on a thread here in the forum on the packing of your prop shaft stuffing. If I have time I'll look too but it would be best if you did so you could get used to using the search.
JohnL
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Old 27-12-2007, 19:23   #3
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old school.

It's not as bad as your brain is trying to make it out to be.
1) find out the size of the packing.
2) go to the store and buy that size and one each size larger and smaller
3) go to the boat and check that the electric bilge pump is working.
4) verify the manual bilge pump is working
5) verify the cord is pulgged in and the battery charger is ON
6) spray the packing gland with PB Blaster
7) using the correct spanner wrenchs or pipe wrenches loosen the packing gland.
This is accomplished by holding the hex closest to the engine and loosening the lock nut that is next aft.
8) unscrew the cap closest to the engine. water will start coming in the boat if this bothers you, grab a beer and get back to work. That's why you checked the bilge pumps in step 3&4
9) when you get the nut off dig out a round of packing, ONLY ONE ROUND.
10) screw the cap with the OLD packing back on so the water stops coming in the boat.
11) take the old packing and see which of the new packings is closest on the smaller side.
12) cut three rings of new packing using the shaft in the boat as your measuring guide don't use the first piece of packing as a guide
13) unscrew the cap, MORE WATER = MORE BEER
14) remove the rest of the old packing
15) start insertin one piece of the new packing so it's fully around the nut.
16) turn the nut 180 degrees from the slit in the first piece
17) start inserting the second piece just like the first
18) turn the nut 180 deg
19) start inserting the third piece as the second
20) reinstall the cap and adjust drip rate to no drips with the shaft stagnent and 4-6 drips a min with the shaft rotating.
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Old 27-12-2007, 19:48   #4
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Here you go..

Even though I wrote this how to article I am a user of a PSS and not a traditional stuffing box. I switched to dripless years ago and have now had them on 5 different boats. I have put over 5000 hours on dripless seals with ZERO issues.

If you want to stick with traditional packing here's a photo based article showing each and every step: Re-Packing A Traditional Stuffing Box Photo Gallery by Maine Sailing at pbase.com

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Old 28-12-2007, 01:06   #5
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OK..awesome...

only one question....

if my boat is out of the water...is it still ok to drink the beer?

thanks ya'll,

Dave
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Old 28-12-2007, 01:27   #6
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Dave,
In or out of the water, beer is required.
JohnL
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Old 28-12-2007, 01:33   #7
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Is this the same link?
Re-Packing A Traditional Stuffing Box Photo Gallery by Maine Sailing at pbase.com
Sorry for the repeat!!
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Old 28-12-2007, 06:58   #8
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ease of repacking in the water could depend on what brand of stuffing box you have. if it is buck algonquin then this is easy to do by wrapping something around the shaft to stop the water. some other types might be a little more tricky. also depending on original packing you may find it is totally rotten and it will fall apart while you are getting it out. i found a great tool is a big fish hook that has been bent straight.
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Old 28-12-2007, 08:33   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acoustic View Post
Even though I wrote this how to article I am a user of a PSS and not a traditional stuffing box. I switched to dripless years ago and have now had them on 5 different boats. I have put over 5000 hours on dripless seals with ZERO issues.

If you want to stick with traditional packing here's a photo based article showing each and every step: Re-Packing A Traditional Stuffing Box Photo Gallery by Maine Sailing at pbase.com
Acoustic,

That's a great tutorial, and your sailing photos are terrific! Makes me want to sail up to Maine!

Thanks,
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Old 28-12-2007, 16:41   #10
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Hud,

I am weighing going with the PSS...looks like a real good option...especially if I will be leaving the boat in the care of anyone else...looks like west marine has them for $166. Any other good sources you would direct me to. Thanks again. Dave
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Old 28-12-2007, 16:45   #11
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Originally Posted by Dave in Eugene View Post
Hud,

I am weighing going with the PSS...looks like a real good option...especially if I will be leaving the boat in the care of anyone else...looks like west marine has them for $166. Any other good sources you would direct me to. Thanks again. Dave
order it direct from PYI
PYI Inc. Max-Prop PSS Shaft Seal Seaview Radar Mounts R&D
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