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Old 08-03-2010, 20:15   #16
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handles on fittings? I think we're talking about thru-hull fittings here, right
In my book that would be a failure, you could not operate the seacock without the handle.

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I wonder if the thur-hull fitting cracked and was tightened up pulling the threaded nipple section into the boat. Both the mushroom cap and the threaded nipple section looked fine, just not connected anymore.
That seems unlikely as I do not think you could get the torque on the fitting with the thru hole tool and a spanner on the nut inside. I installed 2 the other day one was a 2" the other was 1 1/2" I made handle extensions for the thru hole tool so I could get some leverage, no way I could get enough torque to separate the threads on it. Jack
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Old 08-03-2010, 21:14   #17
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Originally Posted by Don Lucas View Post
So anyone else have a small thing that was just a diaster waiting to happen?
41' ................
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Old 08-03-2010, 21:22   #18
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Originally Posted by Stevens 47 View Post
In my book that would be a failure, you could not operate the seacock without the handle.
So... what do you mean? that a thru hull fitting has a handle? But you're talking about a seacock now? I'm afraid you lost me, it doesn't make sense.

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Old 08-03-2010, 22:24   #19
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Originally Posted by Don Lucas View Post
I wonder if the thur-hull fitting cracked and was tightened up pulling the threaded nipple section into the boat. Both the mushroom cap and the threaded nipple section looked fine, just not connected anymore. Anyway now I have a bronze thur-hull with a Marlon valve and bronze tail peice (because that's all I could find to make the right assembly after going to 3 West Marines).

So anyone else have a small thing that was just a diaster waiting to happen?
If it's below the waterline it should be a seacock!

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Old 08-03-2010, 22:39   #20
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So... what do you mean? that a thru hull fitting has a handle? But you're talking about a seacock now? I'm afraid you lost me, it doesn't make sense.
My apologies I re-read the posts. James mentioned handles and I went their. The thread was about through holes not seacock failures. Jack
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Old 11-03-2010, 16:16   #21
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i know some people say there is no place for 5200 on a boat.

for me thru-hulls below the water line is the only place for it.

i think the hassle of taking it off (when the time comes) is worth the assurance that it is not going anywhere until then
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Old 11-03-2010, 16:54   #22
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Might be an appropriate time to ask a seacock related question before I create a disaster in the making...........

Am intending to remove the seatoilet and replace with a simple chemical bog.........but, not sure at this moment that I won't later want to revert to a sea toilet so I don't want to remove the seacocks and glass over the holes - but I do want to remove the hoses.

I know me Father did the same thing for many years with the seacock turned (and wired) off and with a simple wooden bung (since reverted to a seatoilet though)........but I was wandering if their is something else I could use to blank the through hulls off? maybe from the plumbing merchants? or something using jubilee clips?
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Old 11-03-2010, 22:04   #23
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Hey david,

Remove the hose adapters from the seacocks and put bronze (bronze, nothing else) plugs in. Use some teflon tape for both sealing and making it easy to remove later.

cheers,
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Old 11-03-2010, 22:54   #24
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I had a similar experience to Don a few weeks ago.

I bought a new speed log with transducer and thru hull. The boat had a thru hull and plug for a speed log, never installed.

The new thru hull was bigger in diameter so I couldn't reuse the original. When I pulled the plug I realized the locking ears for the plug had completely failed. The only thing holding the plug in was 4 coats of bottom paint and 2 o-rings. The thru hull and the plug were both phenolic. The ears were the only metal parts. Corroded right through.

Thru hulls, seacocks and any penetrations through the hull are on my haulout list. They may be "expensive" but no compromising here. Replace them if in doubt. Know where every penetration is on your boat and the condition.

This one was easy to access as it is right under the galley. It routinely got a "pass" primarily because I incorrectly assumed it was "plugged" and a non issue.

Oh, I also carry a selection of wooden bungs. In the galley drawer...
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Old 12-03-2010, 00:27   #25
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[QUOTE=
Oh, I also carry a selection of wooden bungs. In the galley drawer...[/QUOTE]

I have been told to have the appropriate sized bung tied onto each cock.
In an emergency the correct bung is immediately available - to anyone.

Paul
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Old 12-03-2010, 04:59   #26
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[QUOTE=Ex-Calif;418095]I had a similar experience to Don a few weeks ago.

I bought a new speed log with transducer and thru hull. The boat had a thru hull and plug for a speed log, never installed.

The new thru hull was bigger in diameter so I couldn't reuse the original. When I pulled the plug I realized the locking ears for the plug had completely failed. The only thing holding the plug in was 4 coats of bottom paint and 2 o-rings. The thru hull and the plug were both phenolic. The ears were the only metal parts. Corroded right through.

QUOTE]


This was a good one. My speed has the plug in irt as I use the GPS for speed instead and though it best to just leave the plug in (the instrument doesn't work anyway). Been thinking of glasssing it up but thought the plug was good enough. Now I have to rethink it.
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:43   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Lucas View Post
it was bronze
You sure? there are a lot of yellow metals out there (brasses etc). Care to name the brand?
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Old 15-03-2010, 12:29   #28
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Just a thought. If you're going to have the seacock disconnected for some time the possibility exists that you won't be doing much exercising or maintenance on it.

If you goal is to keep the hole available for re-installation of a seacock, my suggestion would be to remove the seacock, if it's still in good condition, clean it up, grease it and store it.

I'd consider replacing it with a high-quality bronze through-hull and a NPT threaded cap. The through-hull fitting can be cut down to lower the profile. The first 1" of the NPS thread can be recut to NPT. It would be a low cost, easy maintenance solution. Just make sure you get good quality bronze. If it's from China or your uncertain as to where it's from don't use it.

Just a thought.

Fair winds,

Jed
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Old 15-03-2010, 13:37   #29
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Good bronze from China is just as good as good bronze from the US. Bad bronze from China is just as bad as bad bronze from the US. Replace the two countries with any other and it's still true. What isn't true is that all bronze from the US is good. Again, you can replace "US" with any other country.
So.... find a better way of checking "good" or "bad" and better get used to items manufactured in countries where the economies are booming instead of the recessions in the west!

About the project of the OP: I would remove all and glass the hull. Easy enough to put the holesaw through again if needed later.

cheers,
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Old 15-03-2010, 13:45   #30
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Quote:
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it was bronze
I doubt it was corrision..Maybe electrolysis...
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