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Old 28-05-2016, 01:14   #16
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Re: Sloop to Cutter

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Originally Posted by Snowpetrel View Post
I would be a mildly concerned with creep on a longer length of spectra if its used for long periods as a tie rod. It shouldn't be a massive problem, but it might be worth factoring this in, and overspecing it.
True enough, but that's why you put a turnbuckle on it, belowdecks.
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Old 28-05-2016, 16:47   #17
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Re: Sloop to Cutter

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True enough, but that's why you put a turnbuckle on it, belowdecks.
True Uncivilised, but over time it is going to creep slightly and slacken causing the deck to gradually rise, prehaps stressing the deck in ways you want to avoid long term unless you remember to adjust it every once in a while, or make it massively oversize (or short and with many passes like a lashing as funjohnson used)and eliminate all constructional stretch and slack somehow. This tie rod is a place where you do not want any stretch or slack developing. So I think there is a strong engineering arguement for a solid rod or bar with a turnbuckle rather than wire or spectra.

If you did use spectra it would make sense to use massively oversize dynice dux or other heat set dyneema rather than the run of the mill halyard rope, and male sure it is reset after splicing to remove the slack from the splices.

In my case a single large galvanised bottlescrew fit in the space perfectly.

Another completely different concept would be to split the stay and take bridles out to the rails. That way the dinghy could sit under it, or you can avoid anchor winches and the like. You have to work out what to do with the tack of the sail, ideally keep the bridle low and just clip it to the monkey plate at the junction of the bridle.

In this case the deck might need a beam or strut across it to take the compression load from the bridles.
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Old 28-05-2016, 17:37   #18
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Re: Sloop to Cutter

With the length from deck to bulkhead being so short I wouldn't expect creep to be a problem. I tightened my lashing before a long passage or maybe once a year - probably due more to the way I lashed than because of creep. At .1% per month creep you'd get about 1mm per month on a 1m distance.
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Old 28-05-2016, 18:04   #19
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Re: Sloop to Cutter

Actually, you'd be better off going with; Vectran, Technora, or Kevlar, from a creep perspective. If using a synthetic. And then pre-stretch it, under several tons of load, after splicing it.

As to oversizing, yeah, I was thinking 10mm minimum, if not 12mm. The only catch being, is the span of the tie rod, long enough to absorb the length of the splice tails?

Which takes us back to multiple passes of something a touch smaller in diameter. Run through the proper end fitting where it meets the turnbuckle, or any other hard, small radius turns.
Then fitting with a sleeve overtop, to make it pretty, prior to hooking the one end onto the turnbuckle.
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Old 28-05-2016, 18:23   #20
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Re: Sloop to Cutter

If the strop is to be left attached full time, I see little advantage to the cordage solution. If it were me (and it was some years ago on our previous boat), I'd scrounge a cast-off bit of rigging wire from the heap behind most rigger's shops... say something like 10 mm or even 12 mm 1x19. Cut off one end, complete with swaged eye. Put a new eye on the other end, at an appropriate length. Could be swaged or mechanical ( I used a spare Sta-Lok that I had on board). Ask the rigger if he has any cast off rigging screws - some folks replace them by age, and the old ones are quite ok for this sort of application. If not, use a galvanized industrial screw... no need for s/s or bronze here in the dry below decks. Tension it up and forget about it.

Worked for me for years!

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