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Old 04-05-2008, 17:51   #31
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Hang in there man it will all come together. Best of luck and happy sailing.
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Old 04-05-2008, 22:25   #32
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If only I could have found some of this out... it was done after my survey and before I took delivery of the boat.
I am a little confused. I assume all these issues were noted by the surveyor were they?? And this was then "supposedly" being put right by the owner??
What you need to do in a situation like that is have the yard give you a quote. You then tell the owner that he has two choices. Either the yard does the job and he pays, or the repair amount comes off the purchase price and you either do the job or get the yard to. You should never leave the repairs to the owner unless you can trust he knows what he is doing. Or you can hang over his shoulder with every job to ensure it is completed competently. Before the boat is splashed again, you should have taken a quick inspection to ensure everything looked OK. But hey, I wish I knew all that back when I bought my boat too Sully. Sadly our experiences can only serve to help someone else now.
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Old 05-05-2008, 05:04   #33
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No, Wheels. It happened a little differently.

The survey was complete and things like:

*Copper over aluminum
*Thru-hull zincs (R5's)
*Grounding/bonding wires
*Oil in the leaking saildrive

These things were changed *after* the survey by the PO when he put new props on over the weekend on a Sunday. I closed on Monday, after a short sea trial.

He was trying to cover his @ss since the saildrive had a leaky seal (change the oil so I don't notice during sea trial), change thru-hull zincs and use silicone (so I don't notice that the boat had a major electrolosys problem), etc...

He forgot to hook some of the bonding system back up, which contributed to the electrolysis problem as well. I went through brand new zincs in about what... 2 mos? They were gone.

I had to correct a lot of stuff that he did *after* the survey. That's why it almost seemed he was sending me off to my death! ha ha (being dramatic) He did so many dangerous and damaging things to the boat after the survey, it could seem that he was out to get me. (kind of a joke there, too...)

So now everything is fixed:

*Sail drive seals replaced
*Oil changed in saildrives
*New zincs (properly bedded with LifeCaulk (like 4200))
*Bonding system wiring fixed
*New bottom paint
*Took down saildrive paint to bare aluminum, primed and put on proper paint for aluminum below the waterline
*Engine oil changes
*Belt tightening
*Took off prop guard/cages and patched holes in hull from them (may have contributed to electrolysis due to sheer amount of metal below waterline - weigh 25lbs each and large, complicated structures)
*Tightened saildrive hardware to proper torque so props don't come loose again.

So all in all, the boat is now perfect below the waterline and in the engine rooms, but man... what a mess he made after the survey. Most of his efforts were to hide his electrolysis problem, which he did a good job of hiding. It was due to:

*Incorrect wiring of bonding system
*Copper over aluminum
*Prop cages, incorrectly bonded can't have helped

and he took the ground off the engines so the alternators couldn't charge the house batteries, I assume, thinking that this was the cause of the electrolysis.

Inside, we won't talk about his plumbing and electrical mods I still have to fix.

Thank god I rescued this boat from this guy's hands!


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Originally Posted by Alan Wheeler View Post
I am a little confused. I assume all these issues were noted by the surveyor were they?? And this was then "supposedly" being put right by the owner??
What you need to do in a situation like that is have the yard give you a quote. You then tell the owner that he has two choices. Either the yard does the job and he pays, or the repair amount comes off the purchase price and you either do the job or get the yard to. You should never leave the repairs to the owner unless you can trust he knows what he is doing. Or you can hang over his shoulder with every job to ensure it is completed competently. Before the boat is splashed again, you should have taken a quick inspection to ensure everything looked OK. But hey, I wish I knew all that back when I bought my boat too Sully. Sadly our experiences can only serve to help someone else now.
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Old 06-05-2008, 01:13   #34
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Oh yeah I was meaning to ask, what was the result of removing the cages?
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Old 06-05-2008, 04:08   #35
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I'm glad you asked!

Under power, I picked up 1 knot @2400RPM!!

It wasn't windy - well - windy in the right direction to sail yesterday and doesn't look like it will be in my favor for a few days, so sailing performance is yet to be determined. I think it will be quite a bit better though.

It's nice to look down at your speed and see 6.5 instead of 5.5 though. Very nice.


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Oh yeah I was meaning to ask, what was the result of removing the cages?
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Old 06-05-2008, 04:31   #36
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Sully,

I don't get it about bedding your zincs. Where are they attached?
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Old 06-05-2008, 07:18   #37
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Sully,

I don't get it about bedding your zincs. Where are they attached?

That's my question as well Sully, why would you isolate the zinces from the sail drives they are protecting with caulk? What am I missing here?
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Old 06-05-2008, 10:24   #38
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That's my question as well Sully, why would you isolate the zinces from the sail drives they are protecting with caulk? What am I missing here?
To make them last LOOONG time??
<sarcasm>

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Old 06-05-2008, 10:54   #39
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I am sure the mystery will be solved later today

My reading is that Sully is talking about Anodes on the hull (not on the Saildrives themselves - I think these also have them, but not sure - never had 'em!).

Anodes on the Hull can be attached in a number of ways - either a Fitting or straight Bolts permanently fixed / glassed through the hull so renewal can be done afloat OR a simple couple of holes are drilled straight through the hull and nuts and bolts used - the PITA being that yer need 2 people and best done not afloat - and in which case some gooey stuff on the bolts is a good idea!.......this being an English Boat from a bygone era I wouldn't bet against a couple of straight holes.

Also tend to use some packing between the anode and the hull itself - usually a strip of neoprene / rubber stuff - don't ask me why - maybe to stop the "power" of the Anode going straight through the GRP instead of via the bolts?

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Old 06-05-2008, 16:43   #40
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David wins!

It's the old "hole in the hull with a stainless bolt that holds the round zinc on" setup.

So, when you put one of these on, the only thing between you and taking on water is the sealant you use. He used silicone. Bad move.

Internally, these "thru hull zincs" are bonded to the rudder posts to ensure there is no electrolysis of the posts. This is their sole function.

The saildrive has its own zincs, which fit behind the propellor (they are ring-shaped) and the drives also have one internally. The saildrive zincs are the ones he put on without attaching them, so they spun and scraped on the prop and saildrive lower housing. They are normally held in place with 4 allen bolts. VERY bad. EVIL. Could have caused thousands of dollars of damage on that one, if I didn't catch it in time.
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Old 06-05-2008, 17:29   #41
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S,

Thanks for this thread.
I now know that when the used boat is bought and the work done it will have to be re-inspected before going back in the water. Depending on what was done of course.
Surveyor would be the one to come and recheck all those points of interest? Additional fee?
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Old 06-05-2008, 17:38   #42
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Hey Sean,

Are these bolt on plates flush to the hull? I've been looking for a low drag method of attaching a zinc to mine, this sure sounds promising. (No inboard engine, and no room on the rudder shaft!)

How do they bond to the rudder shaft? At the moment I'm thinking a curled up wire with plenty of slack to the rudderhead.
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Old 06-05-2008, 17:53   #43
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S,

Thanks for this thread.
I now know that when the used boat is bought and the work done it will have to be re-inspected before going back in the water. Depending on what was done of course.
Surveyor would be the one to come and recheck all those points of interest? Additional fee?
Hmmm... I suppose you could have the surveyor check. Or... best thing to do is to make sure the boat is put back in the water directly after the survey and the owner isn't messing around with it all day before it goes back in.
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Old 06-05-2008, 18:16   #44
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Hey Sean,

Are these bolt on plates flush to the hull? I've been looking for a low drag method of attaching a zinc to mine, this sure sounds promising. (No inboard engine, and no room on the rudder shaft!)

How do they bond to the rudder shaft? At the moment I'm thinking a curled up wire with plenty of slack to the rudderhead.
Yes, these zincs are mostly flush. They are not hemi, but maybe 1/8 of a sphere on one side and totally flat on the other. They seem like they would produce very little drag.

You can find them in any West Marine (like Morehead City!) or at Bock's or wherever. They are attached to the rudder post, just like you say... with a little curly wire, so it can stretch when you turn.

The important thing is to locate it near the rudder, of course. If a zinc is too far away, it won't work as well.
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Old 06-05-2008, 18:27   #45
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I use these on my hulls as well. Sean, mine are a bit more robust. I would say they are 1/4 of a sphere. Used 3M 4200 to stick them on the hull and I believe they have a 3/8" stainless steel bolt through the hull.

Oh, and I replace them with the boat in her slip. No problems with a wet install.
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