Packing Gland Leaks Like a Siv...

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Ann T. Cate

The OP wrote that the nut is all the way tight, and he still has the leak, so he needs to re-pack the box (and I'd use the PTFE, too, it worked great on our first "Insatiable"). Since the engine will be out, I'd remove the shaft and have a look, anyway, then decide what needs to be done. And replace the cutlass bearing, since the boat's out of the water now.

+1
Good advice

[sww914]

I usually say "you can do it!". This time I think you need to have an expert
Look at your shaft packing when you pull the engine. This may just be a case of not enough packing since you said that tightening the nut had no effect. An expert will know how many rows of packing you should have installed and how tight the nut should be at the start. Or install dripless since you have no access to periodically tighten the packing nut.

[Gerrycooper56]

Originally Posted by Guy

Perhaps but a "scored shaft is not going to be perfectly grooved so as to allow leak free operation with any kind of seal. It will be more like coarse threads. The end play of the transmission output shaft will see to that. As for packing type, one could argue that a flax packing is the best as it contains wax which melts into the groves in the shaft.

We also used hemp rope on tea clippers but have moved on since then . Flax gland packing is made up of woven fibers and depending upon brand/cost the fibers unravel over time, which is essentially why you keep tightening the gland nut as the fiber is expelled. PTFE can be extruded as a rope or twisted in layers

[Nicholson58]

If you have a grooved shaft or if your gland has insufficient rope in it you can handle it with added packing. If it looks like my deeply pitted mess (photos above) you haven't a chance.

As to an expert to tell you the number of rows, If the nut bottoms out, you need more material. I add packing until I can barely start the nut.