No, pretty typical of a DIY anti-fouling maintenance
Unless one races, this will have little negative impact on performance both in speed and growth prevention.
That fact that it is done is a good thing.
My only concern is the material on the sail drive and prop. Only certain anti-fouling
paints can be used on metal (especially aluminum). It may be the right type and the reason why it is different than the hull.
(non-ablative) anti-fouling paints build up and flake off eventually.
When an ablative is applied properly, (with an alternate colour reveal coat underneath) one only repaints where the paint has worn off to expose the reveal coat, thus avoiding excessive build up.
Therefore, annual maintenance
requirements are vastly lower than cheaper paints, typically requiring very little paint, applied to leading edges, and a thin coat from the waterline down about 4".
paint is not cheap. By saving $50 on paint each year, it means in 5-10 years the entire bottom will have to be stripped. If you pay a yard, that will cost a lot more than $500. If you do it yourself and value your time for performing work with hazardous materials at more than $20/hr, it will likely cost more than $500.
Here are some ball park yard costs (materials and labour):
A) Maintenance Coat cheap paint (pre-powerwashed, no-sand), LOA
x Beam x $2.
B) Maintenance Coat ablative paint (pre-powerwashed with light pressure, no-sand), LOA
x Beam x $0.50.
C) New Ablative Bottom Job (strip, prime, 2.5 coats of Interlux
Micron CSC), LOA x Beam x $8.
Anti-fouling paint is very hazardous, and worth every penny to hire out to professionals who will use the proper safety gear
and disposal methods.
above is a customer's 2005 Hunter
41DS receiving a Micron CSC bottom job. Reveal coat is blue, anti-fouling coat black.